bennybenster

What's up all. I'm hoping that someone can help me out. I'm new to Mustangs and I'm a beginner when it comes to working on cars. So thanks in advance for the help and patience.

So I've owned my stang for almost a year. It was all stock when I bought it with plans on modifying it as money and time permits. This is a long term project as family comes first before toys. Well, I finally found some time and money so I decided to get a CAI and Flowmasters. I bought the Summit CAI and 40 series from Summit. I installed the CAI myself and had the mufflers installed by a local muffler shop. After everything was installed, I drove the car around for 15-30 minutes one Sunday and it felt good. I felt less restrictions on the throttle and the sound of the 40 series is much better than stock.

Well the next day, I decided to take it out again and this time, I definitely felt something was wrong. When I got on the throttle on 1st and/or 2nd, the car started jumping/bogging as if I jumping on/off the throttle. I immediately got off the gas, pulled overand the motor stops running. I then restart the car and drive slowly. I still feel the bogging starting but I then shift up and I manage to keep going as long as I don't step on the throttle too much.

So today, I decide to take a look at the CAI installation because I remember seeing something weird. Pic 1 shows the harness/wiring (don't really know what it's called) that connects to the CAI tube, MAF and to the main wiring system (again, not sure what the 3rd connection is called). On pic 2, you will see a close up of the wires closest to the MAF connection. This is what I remembered seeing that was weird. I didn't do anything about it before because I figured it's been like that since I bought it...it must not be doing any harm. Well, when I checked it out today, I had the car running and wiggled that area a little and poof...a little smoke went up and the car turned itself off. Now I know that's what's causing the problem.

So I remove the wire and go to my favorite auto parts store (Checkers) and they tell me they can't get it. I'd have to go to the dealer or find it at a junk yard. So I decided to try and fix it myself by just covering up the exposed wires with electrical tape and see what happens. Well, after I stripped black insulation thing that keeps the 4 wires from the elements, taped up the exposed wires and hooked it back up to the CAI/MAF, the car won't start. The motor turns over as if it's about to start but then it just keeps going and it won't take that final jump to get it started.

I thought about it a little bit and thought maybe if I reset the ECU, that would work. So I looked up how to reset it and found that removing the neg battery cable, pressing the brake 5 times, removing the MAF connector and letting the car sit for 30-45 minutes and then putting everythingback together will reset the ECU. I did all that and still nothing.

Now I'm stuck on what to try next. Any ideas? Thanks again.


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cprstreetmachines

the wire look as if they did touch which means it could have fried an eletrical sensor like the MAF. Cut and rewire them if possible to make sure you have a good connection then plug everything back in and try to start the car. If it does start then disconnect the MAF connector to see if it dies. if it does die or idle rough then the MAF is good and if nothing happens or does't start then most likely its bad. There is a way to test the MAF but you need an expensive tool so see if there is a shop around your area that you trust to check it out.

mjr46

leave MAF unplugged car should start with maf unplugged or plugged in either way.......from this point you need to check for spark and or fuel........you could of shorted something in ecm to

bennybenster

I fixed the stripped wire by cutting all 4 wires and re-connecting them with connectors.

I reinstalled and nothing. Removed the MAF connector, tried to start the car and nothing.

So from what mjr46said, sounds like even if the MAF was dead, the car should still start when the MAF connector is not connected.

Now I need help on how to check for fuel and spark. Any tips?

mjr46

checking to eliminate spark prob or fuel prob is simple...get some starting fluid..spray a few shots in the throttle body.....if it fires up briefly..you got spark if not....get a inline spark checker...this way you don't need two people.....if you have a spare person to crank the car over/start it.....pull a wire of one of the spark plugs....take a used plug and hook the wire end on to the plug and have someone crank the car while you touch the tip of the electrode to ground while having the car cranked over.. if no spark then you'll have to check such things as fuses in fuse box, coil, tfi module, stator in dizzy cap and or rotor
http://sbftech.com/index.php/topic,588.0.html

the link won't work but it's sbftech..... that is blocked out if you use the search function on this forum and type in efi no start .....the first link you come to look for a post by joel5.0 with the efi no start link

mjr46

stupid gay forum!!!! ##@$^%$^%# blocks the words s b f tech......ha ha smarter then the site is ....block that!QQ

bennybenster

Thanks for that link.

So it says to remove the breather hose and spray some carb cleaner in the TB port.

I took a look around the TB and I didn't see any hoses attached directly on the TB. So I did some searching and found that it could possibly be the hose connected to the OIL FILLER and the CAI tube. I've taken a picture and "squared" what I think is the breather hose and "circled" what I think is the TB port. Please verify I have it right. I just didn't want to go spraying into some random port without knowing it's the correct port.

Thanks for the help and patience as I learn my way around under the hood.

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blown50

I WOULD JUST REMOVE THE CAI, FROM WHERE IT CONNECTS TO THE TB, REGARDLES IT SHOULD START, AND SPRAY SOME STARTER FLUID DIRECTLY INTO THE TB, THEN GO FROM THERE LIKE MJR46 SUGGESTED.

bennybenster

I went through the whole NO SPARK guide because the car didn't start with the carb cleaner in the TB trick. I went all the way through and have replaced the TFI module and still no spark. Now I'm thinking of replacing the whole distributor with an MSD from LateModelResto and wanted to ask what probably is a dumb question. But does the cap and rotor come with the assembly or is it separate? Reason I ask is I want to order new cap and rotor at the same time to save on shipping if it doesn't already come with it.

BTW, I've replaced spark plugs (Champions from local Checkers) and have 9mm Ford Racing spark plug wires and MSD Ignition Coil (from LateModelResto) on the way. Kicking myself for not ordering the dizzy at the same time for more shipping savings but oh well.

AdderMk2

dont replace the distributor.... get a new ECM.

if you shorted the wires on the MAF harness... you destroyed the computer