How to narrow down vibration
#1
How to narrow down vibration
I have a vibration after about 4kish rpms. I changed the clutch kit, new flywheel, just changed the motor mounts and the tranny mount. After the tranny mount it seemed to become more apparent. It was there before the tranny mount swap. It does not go away when in neutral. Need suggestions to narrow down possible causes. Driveshaft bolts are "loctite'd" and torqued to specs. Lined up the way it was when I pulled it.
#5
RE: How to narrow down vibration
ORIGINAL: PRO50SC
So was the vibration there before all the changes you've listed? Have you checked the harmonic balancer?
So was the vibration there before all the changes you've listed? Have you checked the harmonic balancer?
Look on the back of the balancer to see if the rubber ring is coming out....
#6
RE: How to narrow down vibration
Mine is bad enough (along with bad motor mounts) that my dizzy cap rocks back and forth and the whole motor shakes at idle but runs great other than that. (shouldn't move I know but my clips for the lower cap just are not that tight.) I am gonna super glue that cap down to keep it from moving next time I go out to work on the car anyway.
#7
RE: How to narrow down vibration
I focused on some of the other problems before the tear down, but I don't believe it did it before. I replaced the u joints already. Now it does it in the upper rpms, but goes away when the clutch is in. Could a throw out bearing be off balance? The balancer rubber is cracked and unevenly coming out, but it does not have any play. The mounts are "solid rubber" as my store labels them on the computer (Advance). I guess the balancer is next. It got worse with the new tranny mount installed. What balance issues would go away in neutral but come back in gear and become more apparent with the higher rpms? My throwout bearing was kinda off balance when I got it, but figured it would straighten out on its own.
#8
RE: How to narrow down vibration
If that doesn't fix it you may have something internally bent now.[:@]My brother' had a vibration he couldn't pin point. After a couple of dampeners he tore the motor apart to find a bent rod.
#9
RE: How to narrow down vibration
Abalancer with rubber juicing out the sides like that is not good. Start there. But, the only reason that vibration would get better with the clutch in is because the engine is under less load. However, a bad dampner should be nasty ALL the time.
If the vibration wasn't there before the clutch and is now only present with the clutch engaged..... I'd say you got bunk clutch disk. It may have been stored on it's side or some shyt. Either way, it quits spinning when you depress the clutch. Otherwise, it may be something in the trans or driveshaft. Did you mark the driveshaft when you had it out?
Does the vibration occur in neutral with your foot off the clutch? It's nothing in the outputshaft, driveshaft or rear end if you can do it at a standstill. If it ispresentat a standstill in neutral withyour foot off the clutch but goes away when youdepress the clutch -it must be the disk,or the input shaftof the trans.
If the vibration wasn't there before the clutch and is now only present with the clutch engaged..... I'd say you got bunk clutch disk. It may have been stored on it's side or some shyt. Either way, it quits spinning when you depress the clutch. Otherwise, it may be something in the trans or driveshaft. Did you mark the driveshaft when you had it out?
Does the vibration occur in neutral with your foot off the clutch? It's nothing in the outputshaft, driveshaft or rear end if you can do it at a standstill. If it ispresentat a standstill in neutral withyour foot off the clutch but goes away when youdepress the clutch -it must be the disk,or the input shaftof the trans.