bikeboy587

Ok I appaently tightened down my rockers too much (18 ft lbs just like the hanes manual says) bec my valve are open and i have no compression. I measured for a new push rod length when assembling the engine(since edelbrock said that the stock 6.250" ones would not work) and came up with the measurement of 6.400" so I bought a Trickflow set of that length.

These are the rockers I have that came on my heads that I bought:
Ford SVO 1.6 RR
http://www.fordracingparts.com/parts...rtKeyField=634

These are my heads:
Edelbrock Performers 5.0, which are pedistal mount with the 1.90" intake valves
http://www.edelbrock.com/automotive_...erformer.shtml

I am at whits end tryin to fuxking figure this out. Some people say that my problem is that you only are suppose to finger tighten the rockers down until you have zero lash and then go a 1/4-1/2 turn more then leave it ignoring the 18 ft lb thing. Others say that i need to use shimes to raise the rocker up so that when i do tighten down my rockers to 18 ft lbs that my push rods only push in on my lifters .050-.120" and that would mean that my valves are not open



What is the CORRECT way to do this please!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!![:@][:@][:@][:@][:@][:@][:@][:@][:@][:@][:@]

jwog666

the spec in the haynes manual is for a non adjustable valve train, you dont need shims. what you need to do is turn the engine to #1 tdc compression and adjust the rockers on the lifters that are ALL the way down in the bore, turn the rocker adjustment nut while spinning the pushrod with your fingers you will be able to tell when you have reache zero lash when you feel a slight drag on the pushrod. then tighten 1/2 turn and tighten the locknut. once you have done all those rockers turn the crankshaft 1 full turn and adjust the rest of the rockers. spin the motor over 1 more time and youll be on #1 tdc compression again. this always works for me, but its usually easier with the intake removed because it gives you a clear view of the lifters in their bores.

1fast86

You have to shim underneath the rocker arm on pedestal mount rockers. Shim it until you have the 18ftlbs and can turn the push rod with your fingers (but not move it up or down) that should be 0 lash.

bikeboy587

ok...so ur saying that i need to go buy a shim pack, and find out how many shims i need to tighten down to 18ftlbs and just hit 0 lash.....

bikeboy587

once again i have two ppl telling me 2 different things......grrr

jwog666

my bad, missed the pedestal part, i thought you were talking about stud mounted. way less pissin around

TTGreenSN95

this guy is right junk those rockers and go get you some rocker studsand poly locks

TTGreenSN95

let me know what you put down on the dyno and time slips we have almost the same setup i havent dyno mine yet but i got a 12.28 timeslip

1fast86

the spec in the haynes manual is for a non adjustable valve train, you dont need shims. what you need to do is turn the engine to #1 tdc compression and adjust the rockers on the lifters that are ALL the way down in the bore, turn the rocker adjustment nut while spinning the pushrod with your fingers you will be able to tell when you have reache zero lash when you feel a slight drag on the pushrod. then tighten 1/2 turn and tighten the locknut. once you have done all those rockers turn the crankshaft 1 full turn and adjust the rest of the rockers. spin the motor over 1 more time and youll be on #1 tdc compression again. this always works for me, but its usually easier with the intake removed because it gives you a clear view of the lifters in their bores.


The easiest wayto shim the rockers is toput moreshims inthan you need (usually two one big one small) and work with one rocker until you find what you need (shim wise).Then use the process jwog666 said to run all the rockers.

bikeboy587

i would love a low 12 timeslip like you and thats what im gunning for, i def will have my dyno and track numbers posted