Alero99

Okay i have a use SPAL fan in a Stock shroud

and i want to get it in tomorrow (raining on and off today)

i have this wiring set up from Painless
http://www.painlessperformance.com/w...rchField=30102

but everything is used and i am using a diagram called Vintage Air Standard Electric Fan Switch kit and it seems to be very straight up but i am confused about a couple of things

#1 i want to stick the temp probe into the thermostat housing, and the bolt in there is allan key style and i can't get that ****er out no matter what i do... any easier spots? i want this to be clean and simple so im not drilling or tapping anything else.

#2 the circuit breaker, 1 wire goes to it and hte other wire goes to the start soleniod. which side of hte solenoid? side with the positive battery cable on it? or the other side?

#3 isn't the start solenoind a key on 12 volt power source? then why do i have to put another wire to a key on 12v power source, and if yes, can i do it back to the solenoid also? and can it be on teh same side touching the other piece?

#4 Does it matter what Gage wire i am using? i have 2 spools of wire, 1 of 10gage other of 14 gage.


if i have any mroe questions i will ask

thank you!

5.0kid

For #4 i would think the higher gauge the better since its going to be running a lot.

Alero99

numerically higher gage?

5.0kid

The thicker gauge wire yes. That way you dont have to worry abotu melting wires

5.0kid

use the 10 gauge or lower numerical. here this might help i got this from http://www.mailleartisans.org/articl....cgi?key=10945

(The AWG system was developed in America to be used for electrical applications, and is still used for non-ferrous wire. (Ferrous means iron-based.) The gauge numbers are based on electrical resistance, which increases as the wire gets thinner. (Picture the electrons flowing through the wire as a bunch of people running down a hallway. If the wire/hallway gets thinner, it slows them down since there's not as much room for them to get through. That's what resistance is.) When the gauge number increases by 3, the higher (thinner) wire will have twice the resistance of the lower (thicker) wire. A general rule of thumb says that when the gauge goes up by 6, the wire diameter is halved. (So, for example, 22g would be roughly half as thick as 16g.)

Fistuv

The wire on the circuit breaker goes to the side of the solenoid that has the positive battery cable going to it. The other side on has power when u turn the key over to start the car. Now for the 12v key on wire. You need to attach it to a source that is only hot when the key is on. No you should not run it to an alway on source like the solenoid. That would make it so the fan would always be active and the fan would only shut off if the temp was under what you set it at. As for the temp probe. I stuck mine in between the radiator fins on the inlet side so when the water would come in and heat the radiator up the fan would come on and cool it off. Use the 10 gauge wire the fan pulls alot of power. Hope I explained that easy enough. If not let me know.

Alero99

so what 12v power source key on should i put this wire too?

88BlueGT

good luck with the spal controller. I bought mine and never even used it. I couldnt get it to work and told them that it was a bad controller and they basically did nothing about it. I ended up just hooking the fan up to two manual switches (high/low).

If anyones interested in a controller, LMK! its a SPAL pwm

Alero99

http://www.putfile.com/pic/8181211

this is the diagram i am going by... if you look you see the circuit breaker CAN go to the starter solenoid, then the wire on the right of the diagram goes to a 12v power source... where is there a 12v power source... i always thought the solenoid was a 12v power source

VASSAGO

i hooked one into the fuse box under the dash, to my ign fuse and it works perfect comes on when i turn the key on