settled4automatic

ok, i thought i needed the 850k6 belt, because everyone talks about that to delete the smog pump. i'm also deleting AC, so which belt would i need?? i'll be running alt, water pump, crank, and power steering. i can't find any string around here to measure it lol.
-kyle

Demon_Mustang

Alright, no offense settled, because I know you had nothing to do with the 42 million posts about this before you, but somebody should make a sticky telling people how to find out the size they need, and no, asking people is not the way. Almost everyone on here probably has a different size belt because there are many circumstances that will make your application different than someone else's. There is the type of a/c installed, the routing method you chose, what accessories you have, if you have aftermarket pulleys, etc. etc.

Here's my advice, take a rope, or cut your old belt, and route it around the way you intend to, make a mark where it meets under the tensioner (meaning have someone hold the tensioner up while you run it underneath and then hold it tight) and about .03" to the measurement you find by doing that, and then going to an auto parts store to try that size, if they don't have that exact size, get the closest, and if it's short or long, make note of how much you think it's short/long by. Go online and order the appropriate size. The size code is pretty simple. Most will have it by the length, which is in inches, 820 will be 82.0 inches, 875 will be 87.5 inches, etc. and make sure it has a 6 in it, which is the number of ribs.

Motorcraft will be [size]k6 I believe, like 820k6 for a 82.0 inch belt with 6 ribs. Gates will be k060[size] ie. for a 88.8 inch belt, it'll be k060888.

Every manufacturer has a different item code system, but you should recognize which number means what.

settled4automatic

cool. yeah i know there's been a lotta posts about it, but i couldn't find my setup with the search option. oh well, it'll cycle down to the bottom in a couple hours thanks demon

luckythirteen13

somebody recently posted directions on how to re-route the belt and what size you needed to delete the a/c, smog etc. should bring that up

Demon_Mustang

The problem is, they only consider deleting EITHER smog OR a/c, never both. If you delete both, no matter how you route it, there will be one point on the route where the belt will come dangerously close to another part of the belt.

My advice is, find out how much a a/c delete kit (meaning a free spinning pulley in place of the actual compressor) is and how much a smog delete kit is, whichever one is CHEAPER, get that one, and just delete and exclude the other one. Like I said, it's safest to delete one and not the other.

If you find that the a/c delete is cheaper, and you're going to get that, meaning there will still be a pulley there, then exclude the smog and route it like in the diagram below, there will be no modification of the tensioner needed and this does not reverse the rotation of anything as the arrows show:

[IMG]local://upfiles/9197/A874A214A19A4E8584B1BCFCFF7267ED.gif[/IMG]

Demon_Mustang

follow the bottom picture if you buy the a/c delete kit and just exclude the smog, but if you get the smog delete kit and exclude the a/c, then use the regular suggested a/c delete routing as suggested in the top pic.

silver91gt

I used a belt from my 82 5.0 with no a/c
and I routed it a little different.
I got a delete kit, but didn't need it.

I deleted my smog and a/c
how do I post pics here?

settled4automatic

ok, so you deleted A/C and Smog silver?? how did you route it?? i don't know how much these delete kits are, but ugh, sounds like a waste o money.

Demon_Mustang

Look at the illustration I provided. You CAN delete them, but look at the belt routing, there is always one point where the belt comes dangerously close to itself if you take off both. If you take off only one, there is a routing that would eliminate that possibility, but both routings end up with at least one close point if both are gone. Sure it should work, but keep in mind, belts arc while it's running. It's called physics, when a belt is run around a pulley, it generates a directional momentum so it would actually arc inward at high rpm.

It'll work, but seriously, do it at your own risk, because you can get it maybe .01" too long, to where it'll appear to get tight when the tensioner is applied, but it is that .01" too long to where at high rpm the belt would arc enough to touch one another. Yah, that would be bad...

But hey, if you want to save some money for now, go for it, but money saved now could be more money in damages later, but there's always that chance that nothing will happen, would be like arguing not to get car insurance because there's always that chance that you will never get into an accident.

Up to you.

settled4automatic

how much would u say for a A/C eliminator pulley? i'm about to go lookin for one. also, i think it was roundy that suggested moving the tensioner to the A/C bracket. does that relocated easily? like no new bracket needed or anything??