installing pistons
#14
I use that same type of ring compressor. Not the most convenient. But it's what I have. And I'm way to cheap to buy a set of the tapered ones.
If your block was machined properly, the top of the bore should have a very slight chamfer to it. If it doesn't, you can use a three stoned cylider hone to make the chamfer. Without it, it's really tough to get the rings in.
Coat the piston sides, rings, inside the compressor, and the cylinder walls with a light coat of engine oil.
Put the piston in the compressor with the oil control ring just above the bottom, with most of the skirt hanging below. Place the two silver bands toward the bottom. Tighten the compressor pretty tight.
Angle the block on the stand so the bank you're working on is horizontal. Turn the crank so that throw is as close to the floor as it will go. That centers it in the bore. Be sure to put pieces of hose over the threads of the con rod bolts.
Put the piston in the cylinder. Twist it around a little to make sure it's centered.
Now, comes the two little tricks that make this job really easy:
1. Tap the top rim of the compressor with a hammer. You want to make sure the compressor is square, and sitting flat on the deck.
2. Grasp your hammer by the head, with the handle between your 3rd and 4th fingers. Hit the top of the piston with the end of the handle. The handle should be straight up and down. Use a sharp downward stroke with a good follow through. Shove it in there. You need to get the piston in in one shot. If it doesn't go in one shot, you have to start over. You'll feel when it goes in; it's distinctly differant than when it hangs up. It just takes a little practice.
If your block was machined properly, the top of the bore should have a very slight chamfer to it. If it doesn't, you can use a three stoned cylider hone to make the chamfer. Without it, it's really tough to get the rings in.
Coat the piston sides, rings, inside the compressor, and the cylinder walls with a light coat of engine oil.
Put the piston in the compressor with the oil control ring just above the bottom, with most of the skirt hanging below. Place the two silver bands toward the bottom. Tighten the compressor pretty tight.
Angle the block on the stand so the bank you're working on is horizontal. Turn the crank so that throw is as close to the floor as it will go. That centers it in the bore. Be sure to put pieces of hose over the threads of the con rod bolts.
Put the piston in the cylinder. Twist it around a little to make sure it's centered.
Now, comes the two little tricks that make this job really easy:
1. Tap the top rim of the compressor with a hammer. You want to make sure the compressor is square, and sitting flat on the deck.
2. Grasp your hammer by the head, with the handle between your 3rd and 4th fingers. Hit the top of the piston with the end of the handle. The handle should be straight up and down. Use a sharp downward stroke with a good follow through. Shove it in there. You need to get the piston in in one shot. If it doesn't go in one shot, you have to start over. You'll feel when it goes in; it's distinctly differant than when it hangs up. It just takes a little practice.
#15
I bored the block .040 over, bought .040 pistons and suggested rings.i think im most frustrated with the compressor. it wont compress the oil ring all the way.and the compressor keeps slipping off the very bottom ring. >
#16
i bored it .040 over, .040 pistons, suggested rings.when i slide the piston in, the first tap the bottom of the oil ring gets caught because the compressor will decompress..idk whitch happens first tho.
#19
#20
I just used that on a SRT 4 motor I am rebuilding for a buddy and it gave me some problems. I had to take my time and be sure it was completly flat against the block of a ring would slide out just before going into the cylinder.