5.0L (1979-1995) MustangTechnical discussions on 5.0 Liter Mustangs within. This does not include the 5.0 from the 2011 Mustang GT. That information is in the 2005-1011 section.
Sponsored by Weld Racing
Welcome to Mustang Forums!
Welcome to Mustang Forums.
You are currently viewing our forum as a guest, which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our community, at no cost, you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is free, fast and simple, so please join our community today!
IMO i would make them all the same, i would feel uncomfortable putting two different lifters in. but im sure .048 doesnt make a big difference. just make sure you adjust your rocker properly just to make sure you dont get a tick.
This ad is not displayed to registered or logged-in members. Register your free account today and become a member on Mustang Forums!
Your pushrod shoud be .050 shorter IF it was the right length before.
Place new lifter in the bore.
Place the lifter bar down to hold it still
Bring the cam onto the base circle
Put the push rod in
plave a light coat of grease on the valve tip
Carefully (without taking the grease off the valve tip) install the rocker.
Bolt it down without any shims.
If the lifter cup collapes .030-.040 and the roller on the rocker tip in on the center of the stem you are good to go. If the lifter goes deeper add shims until you get it right. If the the lifter cup is up against the snap ring or the roller is moved to the intake side on the tip of the valve then your pushrods are to short.
Of course an adjustable pushrod length checker would be faster but this should get you in the ball park. Just remember Lifter cup .030-040 -+ and the roller tip on the center of the valve.
Let me know what you find. With the right lifters I bet you are pretty much spot on when they go on without the shims.
making engines breath since 1968
1985 LX Coupe, 347/581hp N/A TCI C6 Currie 9 inch 4:10s 2577 pounds. Do the math
Install the FRPP replacement lifters and make sure you check for the proper valve train geometry (which includes determining what length PR's are needed).
LUK=Let Us Know, GL=Good Luck, LMK=Let Me Know, JIC=Just In Case, BTSTDTRT=Been There Seen That Done That Repaired That, YCYDYP=Your Car Your Dough Your Prerogative and the classic... DILLIGAS=Do I Look Like I Give A S***
1986 GT-X303-289 heads-1.72 rockers-RG 4+1 Trans.
Originally Posted by Joel5.0
Great thoughts will overwhelm a feeble mind.
There is never money to do it right, but there's always money to do it over.
The proof of understanding is the ability to explain it. (H. Torruella)
Instead of grease on the valve tip I used a magic marker. It worked alot better than grease. You got them lifters from Ford?? Bet those were expensive.
actually the guy i bought the car from had them along with a pretty good list of other parts to sell with the car. which is also a reason why this problem is occuring, cuz i bought somone else's project... if you only knew how much of his mistakes i've already fixed..
This forum is owned and operated by Internet Brands, Inc., a Delaware
corporation. It is not authorized or endorsed by the Ford Motor Company and is not affiliated with the Ford
Motor Company or its related companies in any way. Ford® is a registered trademark of the Ford Motor