5.0L (1979-1995) Mustang Technical discussions on 5.0 Liter Mustangs within. This does not include the 5.0 from the 2011 Mustang GT. That information is in the 2005-1011 section.

28oz or 50oz balance

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 12-29-2008, 01:51 PM
  #11  
Portmaster
5th Gear Member
 
Portmaster's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: SC
Posts: 2,401
Default

Originally Posted by woodsy
Maybe you havent seen it all?
And you have I suppose?
Portmaster is offline  
Old 12-29-2008, 02:01 PM
  #12  
LIL QIK
Thread Starter
 
LIL QIK's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Texas
Posts: 12
Default

So would either of you guys be able to tell me how/where to check to see if it's a Ford Racing, Dart......or factory block? I'm assuming it's factory as I haven't seen anything else that just jumps out at me or anything.
LIL QIK is offline  
Old 12-29-2008, 02:01 PM
  #13  
woodsy
3rd Gear Member
 
woodsy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 755
Default

Originally Posted by Portmaster
And you have I suppose?
Hey your the one giving the info. I can guarantee I build more engines in 1 year than you have in the last 20 years, so with that said, when it comes to small fords, I have seen and done more than you ever will, so relax. Now back to whats optimal according to you, can you give me some insight that would be great, thanks.
woodsy is offline  
Old 12-29-2008, 02:02 PM
  #14  
woodsy
3rd Gear Member
 
woodsy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 755
Default

Originally Posted by LIL QIK
So would either of you guys be able to tell me how/where to check to see if it's a Ford Racing, Dart......or factory block? I'm assuming it's factory as I haven't seen anything else that just jumps out at me or anything.
Theres a bunch of small tell tale signs. The easiest is just checking the casting number right by the starter.
woodsy is offline  
Old 12-29-2008, 02:23 PM
  #15  
LIL QIK
Thread Starter
 
LIL QIK's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Texas
Posts: 12
Default

Originally Posted by woodsy
Theres a bunch of small tell tale signs. The easiest is just checking the casting number right by the starter.
Cool...thanks...I'll start there.
LIL QIK is offline  
Old 12-29-2008, 04:15 PM
  #16  
Portmaster
5th Gear Member
 
Portmaster's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: SC
Posts: 2,401
Default

Originally Posted by woodsy
Hey your the one giving the info. I can guarantee I build more engines in 1 year than you have in the last 20 years, so with that said, when it comes to small fords, I have seen and done more than you ever will, so relax.
hahaha!!!! Yeah youve probably assembled more short blocks than I have but I took them from paper to handing the keys over to the customer. I never liked locking myself into one block design. I only built about 50 engines a year but never the same engine twice. I left the cookie cutting to the other guys.


As far as what's optimal. Just depends on what you are building. To me 3.40 is a stretch. Just not optimal to go deeper down the already limited space. Just not cost effective for 7 cubic inches.
Portmaster is offline  
Old 12-29-2008, 04:27 PM
  #17  
woodsy
3rd Gear Member
 
woodsy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 755
Default

Originally Posted by Portmaster
hahaha!!!! Yeah youve probably assembled more short blocks than I have but I took them from paper to handing the keys over to the customer. I never liked locking myself into one block design. I only built about 50 engines a year but never the same engine twice. I left the cookie cutting to the other guys.


As far as what's optimal. Just depends on what you are building. To me 3.40 is a stretch. Just not optimal to go deeper down the already limited space. Just not cost effective for 7 cubic inches.
I prefer to specilaize, not be a jack of all trades master of none, to each his own. And if you think we build the 3.47-3.500 inch small blocks for 7-10 inches, this shows exactly how little you know, but you are the "portmaster" lol
woodsy is offline  
Old 12-29-2008, 06:49 PM
  #18  
Portmaster
5th Gear Member
 
Portmaster's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: SC
Posts: 2,401
Default

Originally Posted by woodsy
I prefer to specilaize, not be a jack of all trades master of none, to each his own. And if you think we build the 3.47-3.500 inch small blocks for 7-10 inches, this shows exactly how little you know, but you are the "portmaster" lol
I guess if all you know how to do is mow grass you better be good at it.lol
Portmaster is offline  
Old 12-29-2008, 07:43 PM
  #19  
woodsy
3rd Gear Member
 
woodsy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 755
Default

Originally Posted by Portmaster
I guess if all you know how to do is mow grass you better be good at it.lol
Yep do 1 thing great, instead of 10 things hacked up. On a lighter note, why dont I ever see you at the real technical boards that are in depth regarding engine building, machining etc etc? No need to reply, I know the answer already. Still waiting on your dyno sheet Feel free to email it jim (at) fordstrokers.com Have a great night!
woodsy is offline  
Old 12-29-2008, 09:42 PM
  #20  
dudeboy
3rd Gear Member
 
dudeboy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Washington, Seattle
Posts: 551
Default

Originally Posted by Portmaster
As far as what's optimal. Just depends on what you are building. To me 3.40 is a stretch. Just not optimal to go deeper down the already limited space. Just not cost effective for 7 cubic inches.
Are you saying that ALL the 347's out there are less than optimal?

What would be an optimal stroke?

What are the downsides/negatives to going with the 'less than optimal 3.400" stroke'???



Last edited by dudeboy; 12-30-2008 at 05:00 PM.
dudeboy is offline  


Quick Reply: 28oz or 50oz balance



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 08:36 AM.