5.0L (1979-1995) Mustang Technical discussions on 5.0 Liter Mustangs within. This does not include the 5.0 from the 2011 Mustang GT. That information is in the 2005-1011 section.

aluminum shaft

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Old 07-19-2005, 11:44 PM
  #21  
blkgt50
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Default RE: aluminum shaft

Yeah I looked at the rear before I pulled it off of the other mustang. The gear oil was like brand new, the axles were new and the gears looked good. I also looked at the wheel bearing and they looked alot better than the ones that I had. I'm not saying that it could be it but I didn't have this vibration until I changed the u-joints. Before the change the only thing that my stang was doing was sqeaking when I would first take off.
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Old 07-20-2005, 12:10 AM
  #22  
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Default RE: aluminum shaft

for a bad wheel bearing you might try safley weaving left then right , left then right when car is vibrating, it should be worse when more weight is on side of bad bearing & less when less weight is on bearing. if vibrating is in front you may feel it more in the steering wheel, & rear end you may feel it more in the seat, also listen for a roaring/singing noise if a rear bearing is bad,when you are going 30/35mph ease the brake on & noise should stop or at least change. good luck, this just takes time , but remember it is a mustang and well worth the work.
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Old 07-20-2005, 09:09 AM
  #23  
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Default RE: aluminum shaft

I have done that and haven't heard anything like that. With my other rearend I was hearing grinding but no vibration. When I took the axles out they had some bad grooves in them, that's why I bought this rearend that I have now. I feel the vibration through out the car. I know that I have a bad front wheel bearing and that needs to get changed but none of this vibration started until I changed the u-joints. Hey called this mechine shop to ask them how much they charge to balance a driveshaft and it was $40 dollars. Is that a good price? He told me that they would have it back to me by the end of the day if I had it to them before noon. They would check the u-joints to make sure that they are in properly and aren't tight and also check the ears to make sure they aren't bent. he also told me that i don't need an a different type shaft just because of a gear change. He even said that if the my problem was that the u-joints were to tight that I wouldn't have to have the shaft balanced.
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Old 07-20-2005, 12:21 PM
  #24  
stanglx2002
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Default RE: aluminum shaft

IMO i would spend the $40 just make sure everything is fine with my driveshaft
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Old 07-20-2005, 07:02 PM
  #25  
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I know. I just don't what to craw back under the car to do that. Don't get mad I have to work two jobs and don't have a day off until friday which I am going to do it. So no one thinks that the transmission mount could be part of the reason that I have the shake?
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Old 07-20-2005, 08:19 PM
  #26  
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give him the $40 & put him to work, that is a good price. you do have correct fluids?
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Old 07-20-2005, 08:32 PM
  #27  
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automatic , this is from experience that i had with a vibration , i had tried about everthing, but still felt small vibration around 85-90 mph . so i turned the drive shaft 1/2 round and lo & behold no more vebration , you can bet i marked it there . since then when i istall a new driveshaft i test drive it & if i feel ANY vibration i turn it over to see which is smoother. I WOULD NOT ADVISE ANY ONE TO WORK ON THEIR CAR JUST FOR THE HECK OF IT .
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blkgt , since this won't cost anything take your drive shaft loose & turn it half around & put it back & see if vibration is gone.
is that like one of those things you just do for the hell of it when you're bored?? i'm not seein the logic...
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Old 07-21-2005, 01:41 AM
  #28  
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Default RE: aluminum shaft

if you brought your car into my shop...i would check the following items first...

tire balance
front end
wheel bearings


what did you use to press the ujoints?

after new ujoints were installed, did the ujoint move freely in all directions...it is possible that you crushed one of the needle bearings, which could cause a vibration...
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Old 07-21-2005, 02:07 AM
  #29  
settled4automatic
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Default RE: aluminum shaft

ORIGINAL: crazyhorse

automatic , this is from experience that i had with a vibration , i had tried about everthing, but still felt small vibration around 85-90 mph . so i turned the drive shaft 1/2 round and lo & behold no more vebration , you can bet i marked it there . since then when i istall a new driveshaft i test drive it & if i feel ANY vibration i turn it over to see which is smoother. I WOULD NOT ADVISE ANY ONE TO WORK ON THEIR CAR JUST FOR THE HECK OF IT .
ORIGINAL: settled4automatic

ORIGINAL: crazyhorse

blkgt , since this won't cost anything take your drive shaft loose & turn it half around & put it back & see if vibration is gone.
is that like one of those things you just do for the hell of it when you're bored?? i'm not seein the logic...
haha, ok dude. i just thought it was weird. if it works, it works i'll remember it if that happens to me in the future!!
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Old 07-21-2005, 02:19 AM
  #30  
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Default RE: aluminum shaft

I used a c clamp to put them in. I had to use a hammer and socket to get the old ones out. Two of them had no grease in them at all. These u-joints were no greaseable. I really didn't try to move them around to much before I put them back because I was trying to beat the rain that was coming. I did take off a couple of days later and the back u-joint was clicking in the same spot when moved and the front one was a little tight. I was going to replace the both of them again but I was told that they would lossen up. It's been about a week and half now and it still vibrates. The joints that I bought are the non greaseable type. I don't know if that was a good idea but that's what I got. I know that I have to fill the trans but haven't had the chance to do that yet.
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