OiDALE

I just thought that this isnt normal, every time when the car is fairly cold, sometimes even when its warm. When I increase acceleration-Starts off normal then around 2300 or so very suddenly gets faster...If you ever rode in a honda v-tech, thats the same responce im getting from my car. Its pretty much stock as far as the ignition, intake and bottom end. I did have a problem with my distributor but i have changed the internals out cause it didnt run properly at all, it would bog at acceleration like it was running on 6 cylinders or something but I fixed that. But even from before that it always did what im talking about.

Now heres the kicker, im loosing oil somehow...Its not leaking it at all and there is no white smoke at all even on hard acceleration. The car now has 60k original miles guranteed. but every two/three weeks or so even if I dont drive it much, she is always low about half a quart.

Do you think one thing is related to the other? I was thinking that a valve would stick or cause blowby or something along those lines...I have replaced the pcv and the manifold filter/screen thinking it was leaking up through that but it seems to still loose the oil and still have the v-tech symtoms...I guess my next step would be to do a leak down test along with a compression test for the oil loosing part but how about the v-tech???

mattdel

I think your v-tech is a broken baffle in the gas tank.

Standard oil consumption is 1 quart per 1k miles.

mustangGT86_05

Just to note, all manufacturers have their own form of "v-tec" (no h) but I can't remember what fords is called. Some times power bands cause a "v-tec" feel as well, I could have sworn my car had that feeling as well the other day I stomped on it.

projectresto83

Well that is about where the power band really kicks in.....but talking about it on here and feeling it are 2 different things...

You said the intake, ignition and bottom end are stock....what about the heads and cam????

OiDALE

Heads and cam are also stock. It really mostly does it when cold.

Mattdel: Broken baffle in the gas tank? please elaborate...Also, that much? that seems like a lot (1 quart every 1k miles)

projectresto83

There is a baffel that surrounds the fuel pump in the tank. It allows gas to stay in that area so when you are low on gas and take right hand turns it doesn't starve the pump.

When your car is under 180* it runs in open loop mode and this makes your car run a little richer.

Does it do it while you are slowly getting into it or as your are getting on it but not WOT?

OiDALE

Well, since you brought up temp. I have a mark 8 fan with dual core rad, 160 thermostat and my fan kicks on at 160. I dont get much temperature at or above 180 only when in traffic with the a/c and even then I would see about 200...Could this be the problem, because its stuck on loop mode?

It only happens when there is a gradual acceleration. I call it normal driving, Not when I mash the pedal.

projectresto83

Put a 180 thermostat in the thing and tell your fan to kick on at 185....You gas milage should increase a little because of this too.....

The reason I ask about the driving part is because when you go WOT the computer jumps to a set fuel/spark tables....

OiDALE

Really, you think I should put a 180...I thought about it but figured colder would be better.

I drove the car today and it only does it when its cold...So its normal, Im pretty certain about it now.

projectresto83

Lets put it this way if your car likes to operate under 180* during normal operation then yes you should either put in a 180 or turn your fan up to allow it to constantly operate at or over 180*.

A paragraph from

http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/te...InnerWorkings/



Closed Loop
When the EEC reaches a point where it is satisfied with all monitored parameters, it will transition to closed loop operation. In this mode the EEC tries to control air/fuel mixture to the stoichiometric ratio of 14.7:1 and accomplishes this by adjusting injector pulse width with feedback from the O2 sensors to control to the 14.7:1 ratio. This will occur when the EEC table values are calling for the ratios close to stoichiometric 14.7:1 air/fuel ratio. In warm up mode or WOT the O2 sensors are not used because they can only send signals that indicate a ratio above or below 14.7:1 and cannot read a ratio directly. You’ll see in the table that ratios in these operating areas are outside the 14.7:1 range. In graphing the parameters of thousands of data samples during closed loop operation, we have seen the EEC go into closed loop at a temperature less than 170°F since Rick Wagner sent more data from the last revision. When temperature gets to 190°F, the A9L EEC pulls 2° of timing, so a 180°F thermostat is probably the best performance choice.