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5.0L (1979-1995) Mustang Technical discussions on 5.0 Liter Mustangs within. This does not include the 5.0 from the 2011 Mustang GT. That information is in the 2005-1011 section.

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Old 04-19-2012, 09:32 PM   #11
cepowers18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fl1a View Post
As I remember, the difference was how the connector socket is positioned on the sensor. You will have to look at the sensor to get the number.
My car has the F2SF-9B989-CA part on it, but I can't find a replacement part anywhere. Anyone know of a place I can find one, or does anyone have one they will sell?
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Old 04-20-2012, 07:40 AM   #12
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Here is where I got mine, It looks like there are both types here still.

http://motors.shop.ebay.com/i.html?_...506.m270.l1313
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Old 04-20-2012, 05:43 PM   #13
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The CA designation means california emissions, that might help your search. The contrary sensor, AA, is federal emissions.
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Old 04-23-2012, 12:36 PM   #14
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The CA designation means california emissions, that might help your search. The contrary sensor, AA, is federal emissions.
That's helpful to know. I've heard the AA sensor won't fit on 94-95 Mustangs that came with the CA sensor. Does that seem correct, or should the AA sensor fit?
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Old 05-04-2012, 01:44 PM   #15
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Update:

I replace the TPS sensor and I'm still having driveability issues. The car still jerks/jolts/hesitates, sometimes cuts off after I've been driving it for awhile, etc. My research online tells me that the car might be running lean.

I've cleaned the MAF, TB, IAC, replaced the TPS sensor, replaced the plugs and wires, replaced the O2 sensors, replaced the fuel filter... nothing.

Any suggestions?? This car is really getting on my last nerve. It's been almost two years since the car has gone under the knife to swap out the engine and it's been running like crap since.
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Old 06-06-2012, 05:23 PM   #16
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Update:

So my car is still jerking/hesitating quite a bit when cruising. Also, it runs like crap once it's reached normal operating temp. When at operating temp, it struggles to turn over and once it does, the exhaust crackles a lot and it jerks more. Here's a list of things I've done so far (the chip for my custom tune has been removed, FYI):

- Cleaned MAF
- Cleaned TB
- Cleaned IAC
- Replaced TPS sensor
- Replaced spark plugs (gapped at .054) and plug wires
- Replaced O2 sensors
- Replaced fuel filter
- Replaced distributor, cap, and rotor

Before I replaced the distributor, I ran a KOEO test using a Ford EEC-IV code scanner and passed (111 codes) and ran a KOER test and got codes 137 and 411. During KOER, the car shut off once the test was done revving the engine.

After I replaced the distributor, I passed KOEO again and during KOER, the car shut off again and I only got the one 411 code.

I'm pretty much at my wits end with this car. Any other suggestions as to why my car is still jerking / running like crap when at operating temp?

Thanks!
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Old 06-06-2012, 07:58 PM   #17
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I have a 94 with an auto that has done exactly the same thing. I have corrected every code present in the system and it came up with no codes the last 3 times. It still has the same problem as yours has. At least this rules out any transmission problems as yours has a manual. Out of curiosity, how is your oil pressure?
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Old 06-06-2012, 08:32 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by fl1a View Post
I have a 94 with an auto that has done exactly the same thing. I have corrected every code present in the system and it came up with no codes the last 3 times. It still has the same problem as yours has. At least this rules out any transmission problems as yours has a manual. Out of curiosity, how is your oil pressure?
Hmm, that doesn't sound good for me even if I get rid of all of the codes. My oil pressure is low (around the N or O on "NORMAL"). I'm not sure if I'm leaking oil or something else is wrong. I figured I would get to that after this issue... then again, they could be related.

Ideas anyone?
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Old 06-06-2012, 09:49 PM   #19
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Also, my fuel pressure is around 42 or 43 at idle. Not sure if that is too high for my engine and mods.
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Old 06-07-2012, 07:49 AM   #20
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Does your oil gauge move or twitch after the engine is at operating pressure or stay steady? Your factory gauge is connected to a 6 psi pressure switch, as opposed to a linear sender that gives a range of readings.
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Old 06-07-2012, 07:49 AM
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