Aftermarket Gauges
#1
Aftermarket Gauges
I can't find a 12volt ignition source.
I have a 5 gauges, all with lights, 3 of them are mechanical, but 2 of them are electrical.
I've tried to tap into several wires and I have no luck.
I just need someone to tell me which WIRE, what color, and where it is. BINGO. I'm good to go.
I also have a lot of stereo wiring.
I have a 5 gauges, all with lights, 3 of them are mechanical, but 2 of them are electrical.
I've tried to tap into several wires and I have no luck.
I just need someone to tell me which WIRE, what color, and where it is. BINGO. I'm good to go.
I also have a lot of stereo wiring.
#4
vaccuum, oil pressure, air/fuel, volts, water...
I can't do an in-line fuse, already tried that, and your mustang A LOT newer and can handle that kind of stuff.
Ford Electrical systems suck. Lets just face it.
I can't do an in-line fuse, already tried that, and your mustang A LOT newer and can handle that kind of stuff.
Ford Electrical systems suck. Lets just face it.
#5
Yeah you can.. I've done it before on older Mustangs as well as new.. You can even make a fused power block to run several compenents.. I don't know what you're talking about or why it wouldn't work.. 12V is 12V, you can hook it up to anything that turns on when you turn the car on. Such as the radio, the cig lighter, etc..
#6
Why can't you run a new wire with an inline fuse? Crimp an eye loop connector onto a wire, install it on the switched side of the starter solenoid, and connect the other end to the power wire of your gauges. Simple, easy, effective, and doesn't draw power from other fused items in the car(the whole safety thing).
It's gotta be nearly a necessity for 5 gauges with backlighting. No way you can tap into the stock fuse panel to run those without danger of circuit overload.
It's gotta be nearly a necessity for 5 gauges with backlighting. No way you can tap into the stock fuse panel to run those without danger of circuit overload.
#7
Why can't you run a new wire with an inline fuse? Crimp an eye loop connector onto a wire, install it on the switched side of the starter solenoid, and connect the other end to the power wire of your gauges. Simple, easy, effective, and doesn't draw power from other fused items in the car(the whole safety thing).
It's gotta be nearly a necessity for 5 gauges with backlighting. No way you can tap into the stock fuse panel to run those without danger of circuit overload.
It's gotta be nearly a necessity for 5 gauges with backlighting. No way you can tap into the stock fuse panel to run those without danger of circuit overload.
I have those blue things where you squeeze it against two wires and wa-laa you've tapped into another wire....
Now, you said the switched side of the starter solenoid. I don't know if that means behind the dash or in the engine bay? what color? What gauge wire?
I really don't know how to find the right wire. The Haynes, Chilton, and online diagrams haven't helped either.
#8
your solenoid has 4 connections to it. main connection from battery and then the connection that goes to the starter. it also has 2 small connections, one is "I" (ignition) the other is "S" for switched.
http://www.google.com/imgres?q=solen...25&tx=86&ty=95
http://www.google.com/imgres?q=solen...25&tx=86&ty=95
#10
Oh.. right.. 1990 has the S wire going to the solenoid instead of the starter.... my bad.
For my idea to work you'll need to convert to the 1993+ mini starter, otherwise I'd say you should probably use the new wire you installed to power a relay, and splice off the headlight circuit to switch the relay, sorta like the fog light fix.
I can't stress enough that this needs to be done correctly. Fox wiring is precisely the size needed to power the intended circuits (sometimes too small, too). Splicing a direct power feed from another fused circuit will cause problems, 100% guaranteed. Dash fires are the the quickest spreading.
For my idea to work you'll need to convert to the 1993+ mini starter, otherwise I'd say you should probably use the new wire you installed to power a relay, and splice off the headlight circuit to switch the relay, sorta like the fog light fix.
I can't stress enough that this needs to be done correctly. Fox wiring is precisely the size needed to power the intended circuits (sometimes too small, too). Splicing a direct power feed from another fused circuit will cause problems, 100% guaranteed. Dash fires are the the quickest spreading.
Last edited by mattdel; 09-19-2012 at 12:46 PM.