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5.0L (1979-1995) Mustang Technical discussions on 5.0 Liter Mustangs within. This does not include the 5.0 from the 2011 Mustang GT. That information is in the 2005-1011 section.

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Old 07-10-2013, 09:43 AM   #11
dawson1112
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Don't try and install your rear main seal with the #5 cap still on. Not the correct way to do it. For the pan - make sure the gasket is set correctly in the groove on the timing cover and #5 cap. After you get it all put back together, take some black rtv and smooth it over that same area.

Oil leaks suck.

Also be sure you gap your rings correctly. I do 0.020 top ring, 0.024 bottom ring on an N/A set up. You will need to open yours up a little bit due to the boost.

While we're on the topic of oil & rings & boost, may want to look at switching from the factory pcv set up. As your rpm builds, your boost will build, especially with twins. If you opened up your rings as suggested, the boost will create blow by as expected. This will greatly increase crankcase pressure. A lot of turbo guys switch to a breather + catch can set up because the pcv system can't ventilate the crankcase pressure effectively. This pressure has to go somewhere as new pressure from the turbos is getting past the rings. It usually finds its way out via the rear main seal, oil pan gasket, etc.

Theres your circle of life between boost and rings. Lol

all very true ,, but from the sounds of it he will be building a 331 R block in no time lmao
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Old 07-10-2013, 10:06 AM   #12
craig71springsport
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well played sir , well played
Ty Ty, I thought it out. Girlfriend can't complain that way!
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Old 07-10-2013, 10:08 AM   #13
craig71springsport
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Duncan_GT View Post
Don't try and install your rear main seal with the #5 cap still on. Not the correct way to do it. For the pan - make sure the gasket is set correctly in the groove on the timing cover and #5 cap. After you get it all put back together, take some black rtv and smooth it over that same area.

Oil leaks suck.

Also be sure you gap your rings correctly. I do 0.020 top ring, 0.024 bottom ring on an N/A set up. You will need to open yours up a little bit due to the boost.

While we're on the topic of oil & rings & boost, may want to look at switching from the factory pcv set up. As your rpm builds, your boost will build, especially with twins. If you opened up your rings as suggested, the boost will create blow by as expected. This will greatly increase crankcase pressure. A lot of turbo guys switch to a breather + catch can set up because the pcv system can't ventilate the crankcase pressure effectively. This pressure has to go somewhere as new pressure from the turbos is getting past the rings. It usually finds its way out via the rear main seal, oil pan gasket, etc.

Theres your circle of life between boost and rings. Lol
Thank ye kindly sir! Very useful advice.
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Old 07-10-2013, 10:10 AM   #14
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all very true ,, but from the sounds of it he will be building a 331 R block in no time lmao
Aw come on, he who has little faith! Cheer it on, I'll post plenty of videos for everyone.
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Old 07-10-2013, 10:24 AM   #15
dawson1112
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Aw come on, he who has little faith! Cheer it on, I'll post plenty of videos for everyone.
Ha ha oh I have faith , faith that when she don't blow at 11 psi youll go to 15 psi .

Id love to see the video of her when the crank snaps lol better than tv.
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Old 07-10-2013, 10:34 AM   #16
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You'll see a crack in the main around the main bolt holes, either #1 or #2 from what I've seen. It'll spider up the front of the block. The block literally tries to split itself. Probably scary as hell when it happens, the after math looks pretty cool lol. Lets hope you dont have an expensive bottom end, 'bout the only thing a girdle is good for is keeping it from grenading everywhere
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1995 Mustang GT
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Soon to come: 393 stroker
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Old 07-10-2013, 10:36 AM   #17
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I was at the track last year and watched an Evo @ 30psi blow a rod cap through his oil pan
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1995 Mustang GT
1999 F150 Lariat 4x4

Soon to come: 393 stroker
351w bored .030, Probe Industries forged internals, Trickflow 205's, FTI custom cam, Trickflow R 90mm intake, Accufab 90mm TB, FRPP 42lb injectors, 1 3/4" custom Accufab LT's, 3" exhaust, MS2
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Old 07-10-2013, 10:39 AM   #18
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Id think any where above 9 psi at wot the head bolts would go first , blown head gaskets.

But hey its all good, if it gets you 700hp r block for xmas.
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Old 07-10-2013, 11:23 AM   #19
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Lol. I would stud everything. I even studded my oil pan
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1995 Mustang GT
1999 F150 Lariat 4x4

Soon to come: 393 stroker
351w bored .030, Probe Industries forged internals, Trickflow 205's, FTI custom cam, Trickflow R 90mm intake, Accufab 90mm TB, FRPP 42lb injectors, 1 3/4" custom Accufab LT's, 3" exhaust, MS2
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Old 07-10-2013, 11:27 AM   #20
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Lol. I would stud everything. I even studded my oil pan
Haha hey I don't blame you with that 393. Hows that coming along man.
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Old 07-10-2013, 11:27 AM
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