5.0L (1979-1995) MustangTechnical discussions on 5.0 Liter Mustangs within. This does not include the 5.0 from the 2011 Mustang GT. That information is in the 2005-1011 section.
Sponsored by Weld Racing
Welcome to Mustang Forums!
Welcome to Mustang Forums.
You are currently viewing our forum as a guest, which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our community, at no cost, you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is free, fast and simple, so please join our community today!
I got a brand new battery Saturday night. Started the car up and let it idle for about half an hour just to make sure the battery worked. I haven't touched the car since then. I came down to crank it up and the battery is completely dead. It won't even turn over. At first I thought maybe the alternator was bad but since it killed it while it wasn't even running Ihave no idea what it could be now. Does anyone have any ideas? I am at a total loss.
P.S......I was supposed to get laid tonight and my the blocked me.
This ad is not displayed to registered or logged-in members. Register your free account today and become a member on Mustang Forums!
1989 5.0 LX vert auto. Rear cats removed, flow 50s replaced with straight pipes. Quieter with no drone than with the Flow 50s.
Not the voltage reg. You have a draw on the battery when car is sitting. As stated above, throw a volt meter on your battery and start pulling fuses to see where the draw is, or at least narrow it down. First thou, if you have corroded connections, clean those first. Good luck
If your autotender charges at 1A it will take about 75 hrs to charge your battery. If it charges at 10A, you'll need about 8 hrs to charge your battery up all the way.
When you can start it, turn on the lights, heater fan, wipers, and check the battery voltage-it should be between 13.6 and 14.5. If it is lower, check all of your cables and the alternator.
If your fully charged good battery loses it's charge in 8 hrs, you have a lot of current being drawn out, about 10A. A light will not be much help finding a parasitic draw, a current meter or clamp will be much more accurate. If you disconnect the battery cable, insert your current meter (make sure it can read 10-20A) and wait about 15 minutes. You should have under .1 A draw. (do not try to start your car with a current meter in series with the battery) . after 15 minutes if the current reads above .1A, you can start removing fuses to see where the draw is. When you remove the fuse to the problem circuit, the current meter reading will drop to approx .1A.
Always clean your battery terminals and cables with a circular brush everytime you take them off.
If the terminals are dirty, your battery will not charge properly.
2012 Mustang Premium 6 speed Manual
Starkey Fog Lights
5 spoke chrome American Muscle 18" x 9" wheels
Nitto 255/45ZR18 Tires
H&R Sport Front and Rear Sway Bar
J&M lower control arms
TMI adjustable tilt headrests
Gaslock LED Shift ****
Shelby door subs
Sony 200W amp
It was dead in under 24 hours. So I am looking for around a 3A draw minimum. If my math is right.
go get a dang multimeter and see what the draw is and stop freakin' guessing...........pull fuses until the drain is under 25-50 milliamps then get a diagram of the circuit the fuse you pulled and unplug components in that circuit until drain is gone......don't make a mole hill into a mountain here!
Originally Posted by dudegirl
Be polite and cordial when you talk to them, as pissing off the guys that can help you is seldom a good idea.
This forum is owned and operated by Internet Brands, Inc., a Delaware
corporation. It is not authorized or endorsed by the Ford Motor Company and is not affiliated with the Ford
Motor Company or its related companies in any way. Ford® is a registered trademark of the Ford Motor