stanggurl007

Hi everyone,

My 99 V6 has kicked the bucket as far as I can see. I discovered an 88 5.0 GT for sale. I took a quick look at it and it has piqued my interest. It's an Auto (Before you say anything, I know, get a manual), has a new AOD transmission, rebuilt engine with 15,000 miles, Cobra Replica Wheels, tires in good condition, black carpet, grey houndstooth seats, dash in excellent condition, dual catless exhaust system, EGR valve delete, Smog pump delete, Ford Racing Distributor and Wires, and new rear shocks. It needs the heater core replaced and then the A/C system recharged. It's listed on Craigslist for 4500, he verbally stated 4000.

I'm wondering if this would be a good deal for a daily driver and how much it would be worth. Thanks in advance.

Craigslist Ad: http://lascruces.en.craigslist.org/cto/4164311375.html

tinman

Get that car up on a lift and check for damage/rust on the undercarriage, if you find none I'd say buy it.
BTW, an automatic trans is what civilized people drive with........

bluebeastsrt

Four grand for a rust free fox is a fair price in my opinion. I'd ask for receits on the new transmission. I'd also go even lower on the offer. You know you can always work your way back up to 4 grand.

88 orangepeel notch

Yep, for a stock drivetrain fox, grab it. If as tin and blue stated, it's solid and he can provide proof of work done. And if he dropped $500 over the phone, you know he'll take $3500 when cash is waved in his face. Good luck and keep us posted.

stanggurl007

The car was originally purchased in Phoenix so I have a feeling it will be rust free. Asking for proof of receipts is a good idea. I hadn't thought of that. Shows how long ago and where (dealer) I bought my last car.

83GT5.0vert

If you don't have the opportunity to get it up on a lift when you first go see it, at least open the hood and look closely at the front frame rails, specifically where the engine cradle mounts to them. If there's any rot there, it's a good indication that there's probably car cancer in the floor pans/ undercarriage as well. Probably not as big of a concern over there in NM as it is here on Cape Cod though.

stanggurl007

I was poking around the engine last night but it was dark so rust wouldn't have been as apparent. I still plan to look underneath but you're right. Cape Cod is much harder rust wise than NM. Heat and sand are our biggest issues.

dawson1112

Just some things to keep in mind, what are your inspection regulations in NM?
Do you smog test, visual on exhaust?

Here in ohio its not that big of a concern because there are only 7 counties that do any kind of inspection when you put a car in your name. I don't know about where you live so you should consider that. The catless system would not pass smog nor visual inspection. Nor would the smog pump delete.

Ask the seller about the A/C and if it has had a retro conversion to 134a or if it is still on the old refrigerant. It may not be as simple as just having the system charged.

wydopnthrtl

The heater core is not too hard to do. But it will involve pulling the dash rearward. There is a decent video on youT from latemodel resto. Also, you'll want to do the heater core before charging the AC.

I'm not a fan of autos.. but if that floats your boat then more power to ya.
I don't know much about the autos in these things but genericaly speaking I like to run a 2500 stall, intall a cooler, and add a shift kit. Depending on what you do with the tranny and how you drive it, a set of 3:55, 3:73 rear gears will really wake it up. And if driven easy don't hurt mpg as much as you might think. I've had 2.73,3.08, 3.55, & 4.10 all w/5speeds. All in all I like the 4.10s I have now. Cruising in 5th gear and its got intant power anytime I just tip the throttle a little. I love it. btw, I drove it 1300miles at 62-65mph (w/4.10s) and two different fillups I got over 25mpg (mileage recorded with GPS.. not the odometer). The whole trip avg was about 24 which included lots of "fun" in the mountians. So.. depending on how you drive.. gears don't necessarily "kill" mileage.

All in all these are pretty cheap cars and with key "mods" significant gains can be made for not much $$. No cats and rear gears are the top two IMO.
A tune up, cleaning the injectors, and setting the timing on 13-14 initial will usually cost less than $100.
Considering where you are and wanting AC.. I'd suggest you keep the mech fan and skip underdrive pullies. They do buy you some power but w/stock rear gears and wanting AC you'll just cause yourself problems.

Don't get a chip unless its for a stock engine and cheap. It will help at part throttle but at WOT you most likely won't gain anything.

stanggurl007

New Mexico doesn't have inspections. It's mainly visual- do the lights and signals work. What's difference between an OEM heater core and a retrofit besides fluids? I've seen the late model restoration page about the heater core. It does seem fairly easy, just tedious. I've looked into a few mods, such as a chip, I haven't decided anything yet. I'll probably wait until I've got the heater core fixed.