WOT Clutch Engagement Issue
08-24-2011, 06:44 AM
#1
1st Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: FL
Posts: 134
WOT Clutch Engagement Issue
2012 5.0 6 spd 3.73 Brembo's
I've searched a few times for the exact answer I'm looking for but haven't been able to find it. If it's already been discussed and/or solved, please just link it.
Here is my concern... when accelerating at WOT (any gear) and reaching the upper RPM range (5k+), the clutch pedal doesn't fully return to the engaged position. It feels as if it only comes back 60-70%. I also notice some odd powerband quirkiness when going WOT from lower RPM's to over 6k. I can't quite figure out if it's clutch/tranny related by not putting the power to the wheels (most likely) or the factory tune for the motor itself.
Additionally, I've noticed that after taking the car from a rolling start up to 100+, I can smell what kind of smells like gunpowder (or roasting clutch). There has never been any kind of smoke or different feeling in the clutch after this, just the smell. It usually lingers for about 5 mins then dissipates.
The only "fix" I've been able to dig up online that may or may not help is the removal of the larger spring (which increases pedal effort) in the clutch pedal assembly. I don't want to pay to swap over to a GT500 assembly like other posts suggest. Has anyone tried this with absolute success because warranty's won't cover wear items like the clutch. I also don't want to drop my car off for a bunch of "ASE Certified" mechanics (aka highschool drop-outs) at Ford to scratch their head for 3 days and tell me I'm imagining things. No offense to any knowledgeable mechanics here
Any help would be greatly appreciated and sorry if I'm kicking a dead horse with this topic and couldn't find the posts relating to my "potential issues" on other forums.
I've searched a few times for the exact answer I'm looking for but haven't been able to find it. If it's already been discussed and/or solved, please just link it.
Here is my concern... when accelerating at WOT (any gear) and reaching the upper RPM range (5k+), the clutch pedal doesn't fully return to the engaged position. It feels as if it only comes back 60-70%. I also notice some odd powerband quirkiness when going WOT from lower RPM's to over 6k. I can't quite figure out if it's clutch/tranny related by not putting the power to the wheels (most likely) or the factory tune for the motor itself.
Additionally, I've noticed that after taking the car from a rolling start up to 100+, I can smell what kind of smells like gunpowder (or roasting clutch). There has never been any kind of smoke or different feeling in the clutch after this, just the smell. It usually lingers for about 5 mins then dissipates.
The only "fix" I've been able to dig up online that may or may not help is the removal of the larger spring (which increases pedal effort) in the clutch pedal assembly. I don't want to pay to swap over to a GT500 assembly like other posts suggest. Has anyone tried this with absolute success because warranty's won't cover wear items like the clutch. I also don't want to drop my car off for a bunch of "ASE Certified" mechanics (aka highschool drop-outs) at Ford to scratch their head for 3 days and tell me I'm imagining things. No offense to any knowledgeable mechanics here
Any help would be greatly appreciated and sorry if I'm kicking a dead horse with this topic and couldn't find the posts relating to my "potential issues" on other forums.
08-24-2011, 10:56 AM
#3
Join Date: May 2011
Location: California
Posts: 20
Rangerryda, I've noticed the same thing. The other day, I had to go WOT from one signal into a left turn lane to catch the light to make a u-turn. I took off from a standing start, WOT, shift to 2nd, WOT, make the light, and when I hit the brakes to start the u-turn, I pushed the clutch in in preparation for a heel-n-toe 1st gear downshift and noticed that the clutch was somewhere in the middle, it had not returned all the way back to the top. I haven't tried to recreate this, but it did exactly what you described. WTF?
Pat.
Pat.
08-24-2011, 11:55 AM
#4
1st Gear Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: CA
Posts: 136
I have this, too..
The key to trigger it is to be sitting high (rpm) gear for a while... like holding second at 5+ for a few, and then shifting after; pedal drags coming back up.
On monday my car goes in for it's third tranny (different rev. supposedly this time) and they are throwing in a 'new' pedal also; not sure if that means a diff. version, or simply a new one....
The key to trigger it is to be sitting high (rpm) gear for a while... like holding second at 5+ for a few, and then shifting after; pedal drags coming back up.
On monday my car goes in for it's third tranny (different rev. supposedly this time) and they are throwing in a 'new' pedal also; not sure if that means a diff. version, or simply a new one....
08-24-2011, 12:43 PM
#5
The Paranoid One
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Texas
Posts: 5,320
I have this, too..
The key to trigger it is to be sitting high (rpm) gear for a while... like holding second at 5+ for a few, and then shifting after; pedal drags coming back up.
On monday my car goes in for it's third tranny (different rev. supposedly this time) and they are throwing in a 'new' pedal also; not sure if that means a diff. version, or simply a new one....
The key to trigger it is to be sitting high (rpm) gear for a while... like holding second at 5+ for a few, and then shifting after; pedal drags coming back up.
On monday my car goes in for it's third tranny (different rev. supposedly this time) and they are throwing in a 'new' pedal also; not sure if that means a diff. version, or simply a new one....
WOW I bet that is a PAIN in the BUTT!
Three times?
I would be thinking lemon law by then.
08-24-2011, 12:46 PM
#6
The Paranoid One
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Texas
Posts: 5,320
ranger,
I agree you need to bring it in for warranty.
That is what the warranty is for.
Why just skip it and not try?
I would also encourage you to be in the car when they test drive it for trouble.
Explain how to make it do this. You might drive it first so they can see what you do to make it do it.
I agree you need to bring it in for warranty.
That is what the warranty is for.
Why just skip it and not try?
I would also encourage you to be in the car when they test drive it for trouble.
Explain how to make it do this. You might drive it first so they can see what you do to make it do it.
08-24-2011, 01:02 PM
#7
1st Gear Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: CA
Posts: 136
I am sitting at 15k currently and will know in 1000 miles whether or not I am going to lemon it.... I may park it for a few months to see if the NHTSA has a find.....
I certainly won't keep the car this way; attorney will be hired if necessary.
08-24-2011, 04:23 PM
#9
Good Lord, take a hint and go to the dealer first! Worst case they can't replicate it and they do nothing. If you mess with it beforehand with spring fixes or whatnot you could possibly void your warranty. The stock spring setup in mine and countless others' 11-12 stangs works perfectly fine, there's probably something defective or broken, not a design issue. By removing parts you could just be merely covering up a symptom of a deeper problem.
Last edited by parchisi; 08-24-2011 at 04:26 PM.
08-24-2011, 07:30 PM
#10
1st Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: FL
Posts: 134
I have less than 2k on the car and it's done it since new. I just figured I was imagining things at first but now that I know the car and it's little details it's obvious something is off. Maybe I'll swing by and talk to the service manager first to ask him if he's ever heard of this issue before letting the service writers have a field day with paperwork. They're almost as bad as salesmen lol.