5.0 longevity on boost?
#11
With only an intake and a tune Steeda had the Boss at 422whp, the Jon Lund tune is also about the same so with all that I would think 430whp is very achievable.
#12
FRPP purchases engine specs from Ford. From this they know the boosts that would be reliable and therefore can warranty their product at lower boosts. They did calculations and for the higher boost kit, the reliability dropped like a rock so they thus will not warranty it.
Edelbrock is the same. But they are able to get a lot of power on only 4psi manifold because of design. I believe the runner lengths have the right harmonics such that the pulse pressure waves of the intake valves opening and closing actually assist in "scavaging" the plenum of all air given a couple crank rotations such that only 4psi is neede to pull out more power
Edelbrock is the same. But they are able to get a lot of power on only 4psi manifold because of design. I believe the runner lengths have the right harmonics such that the pulse pressure waves of the intake valves opening and closing actually assist in "scavaging" the plenum of all air given a couple crank rotations such that only 4psi is neede to pull out more power
As far as the SCs go, I like the looks of the Vortech, I'd hate to lose the awesome factory intake manifold with the 5.0 logo.
#15
Humbling to read about so many of the new 5.0's running exceptional times on boost and sticky tires...
I am starting consider one of the 2012 5.0s and putting a blower on it ASAP.
Of course I could go forged and go crazy on boost, but then the auto trans will have to get upgraded among other things..
#16
How sad when thats about what I make on a good day after heat kicks in.. it just gets worse from there lol
Humbling to read about so many of the new 5.0's running exceptional times on boost and sticky tires...
I am starting consider one of the 2012 5.0s and putting a blower on it ASAP.
Of course I could go forged and go crazy on boost, but then the auto trans will have to get upgraded among other things..
Humbling to read about so many of the new 5.0's running exceptional times on boost and sticky tires...
I am starting consider one of the 2012 5.0s and putting a blower on it ASAP.
Of course I could go forged and go crazy on boost, but then the auto trans will have to get upgraded among other things..
#17
You honestly think a 5.0 with a stock transmission and 600+whp is going to hold together forever? Don't drink the koolaid dude. These cars have been out not even 2 years now and if you think Ford really put a built transmission (and yes it's built if it's honestly gonna take that power forever) in a frickin GT then you may be in for a surprise. BTW that blower kit for the 5.0 is gonna set you back 7-8 big ones easy.
These aren't some sorta supercar here. The engines seem pretty stout for a stock piece as do the transmissions so far but give it time and people will break things. You don't put 600+whp in a otherwise stock car and expect things to just magically hold together year after year. Mark my words, these cars are gonna be breaking on people, and a lotta guys won't even have the note paid for before they end up having to start dumping money into the pit.
Hope I'm wrong. I doubt it.
Last edited by Riptide; 10-06-2011 at 11:59 AM.
#18
he cant have any kool-aid, i drank it all.
i think the automatic transmission and engine will hold 600whp reliably.
anymore than that? mmm we'll see.
people have made 430whp with just o/r X pipe, CAI and tune. ofcourse.. dyno #s dont mean much to me could be a generous dyno.
shorty headers dont give much whp gains because the car comes with factory shorties.
So far from what we've seen in dyno tests is cams with the stock heads dont do anything for you. you need new heads to even use the cams that give you gains.
really what you'd be looking at is LT headers, O/R mid pipe, CAI, boss intake manifold. circle d torque converter, 4.10(or even 4.30) gears and some 15" wheels with slicks or drag radials and you'll be in the low-mid 11's range, probably around 425-450whp depending on the dyno. and will probably cost about $3500. on top of the price of the car (minimum of $29,000 unless you find a good deal/used)
do just a blower with 15" wheels? probably in the 550-650whp range depending on what you get, and about $9000 spent, running low 10s, possible even pulling a 9.9
38k total there, vs 32.5k for full bolt-ons including cost of the car, - trade in on your car i dunno condition or miles, but 12,000-17,000. 15k-27k out of pocket?
keep your car...
built engine: $5,000-$8,000.. built transmission? i dunno, $3,000 $4,000? turbo or big supercharger + with the fuel kits and everything you'll need? $7,000+
car will be reliable, and might even get you into 9s.. looking at 15-19k.
one thing im leaving off is suspension, some people haven't upgraded theirs and it runs ok, others upgrade it and squeeze down a few more tenths. some feel they can't even drive their car w/o upgrading their suspension.
overall, you are probably looking at more money to go with a 5.0 and who knows about this new GT that is supposed to be out.. i believe 2014? new lighter/smaller chassis? direct injection? more power? the current 5.0 could be worse than whats coming out in just a couple of years.
i think the automatic transmission and engine will hold 600whp reliably.
anymore than that? mmm we'll see.
people have made 430whp with just o/r X pipe, CAI and tune. ofcourse.. dyno #s dont mean much to me could be a generous dyno.
shorty headers dont give much whp gains because the car comes with factory shorties.
So far from what we've seen in dyno tests is cams with the stock heads dont do anything for you. you need new heads to even use the cams that give you gains.
really what you'd be looking at is LT headers, O/R mid pipe, CAI, boss intake manifold. circle d torque converter, 4.10(or even 4.30) gears and some 15" wheels with slicks or drag radials and you'll be in the low-mid 11's range, probably around 425-450whp depending on the dyno. and will probably cost about $3500. on top of the price of the car (minimum of $29,000 unless you find a good deal/used)
do just a blower with 15" wheels? probably in the 550-650whp range depending on what you get, and about $9000 spent, running low 10s, possible even pulling a 9.9
38k total there, vs 32.5k for full bolt-ons including cost of the car, - trade in on your car i dunno condition or miles, but 12,000-17,000. 15k-27k out of pocket?
keep your car...
built engine: $5,000-$8,000.. built transmission? i dunno, $3,000 $4,000? turbo or big supercharger + with the fuel kits and everything you'll need? $7,000+
car will be reliable, and might even get you into 9s.. looking at 15-19k.
one thing im leaving off is suspension, some people haven't upgraded theirs and it runs ok, others upgrade it and squeeze down a few more tenths. some feel they can't even drive their car w/o upgrading their suspension.
overall, you are probably looking at more money to go with a 5.0 and who knows about this new GT that is supposed to be out.. i believe 2014? new lighter/smaller chassis? direct injection? more power? the current 5.0 could be worse than whats coming out in just a couple of years.
#19
Most of the people including Mishri who buy these cars won't be satisfied with NA power. They will end up with a blower kit on the car eventually.
Styling is subjective and aside from that the new car is an improvement in almost every possible way to one degree or another. However the fact is most people who ditch the old car and are buying these new ones are doing it for, primarily, the engine. I'm not saying anything new here - you can build anything to go faster. And it will almost always be cheaper to build a car you already own. And on top of it you don't need to share ownership (again) with a bank for 3+ years.
But go ahead and spend your own money however you want. Your money, your decision. But whether it's going to be cheaper to buy and build a new car to get the results you want over one you already own - highly debatable. And some of the numbers people like to run make certain assumptions like, you know, a stock transmission lasting year after year on 600+whp. Good luck with that.
Styling is subjective and aside from that the new car is an improvement in almost every possible way to one degree or another. However the fact is most people who ditch the old car and are buying these new ones are doing it for, primarily, the engine. I'm not saying anything new here - you can build anything to go faster. And it will almost always be cheaper to build a car you already own. And on top of it you don't need to share ownership (again) with a bank for 3+ years.
But go ahead and spend your own money however you want. Your money, your decision. But whether it's going to be cheaper to buy and build a new car to get the results you want over one you already own - highly debatable. And some of the numbers people like to run make certain assumptions like, you know, a stock transmission lasting year after year on 600+whp. Good luck with that.
#20
Most of the people including Mishri who buy these cars won't be satisfied with NA power. They will end up with a blower kit on the car eventually.
Styling is subjective and aside from that the new car is an improvement in almost every possible way to one degree or another. However the fact is most people who ditch the old car and are buying these new ones are doing it for, primarily, the engine. I'm not saying anything new here - you can build anything to go faster. And it will almost always be cheaper to build a car you already own. And on top of it you don't need to share ownership (again) with a bank for 3+ years.
But go ahead and spend your own money however you want. Your money, your decision. But whether it's going to be cheaper to buy and build a new car to get the results you want over one you already own - highly debatable. And some of the numbers people like to run make certain assumptions like, you know, a stock transmission lasting year after year on 600+whp. Good luck with that.
Styling is subjective and aside from that the new car is an improvement in almost every possible way to one degree or another. However the fact is most people who ditch the old car and are buying these new ones are doing it for, primarily, the engine. I'm not saying anything new here - you can build anything to go faster. And it will almost always be cheaper to build a car you already own. And on top of it you don't need to share ownership (again) with a bank for 3+ years.
But go ahead and spend your own money however you want. Your money, your decision. But whether it's going to be cheaper to buy and build a new car to get the results you want over one you already own - highly debatable. And some of the numbers people like to run make certain assumptions like, you know, a stock transmission lasting year after year on 600+whp. Good luck with that.
If I would have gone with say a whipple or a KB when I did the supercharging I highly doubt I would own this car.