What is the true fix for this gawdawful clutch?
#12
Assist spring is on the clutch pedal itself. Numerous threads out there about removing it.
If I was a drag racer, I'd have considered a slushbox. I like to turn, though, and automatics generally suck for that. To put another way, if a Mustang only came in an automatic, I wouldn't have even considered getting one. Not suggesting anyone who gets an automatic is lame; different strokes for different folks as they say. But for me, a manual is the only thing that works for what I like to do.
It isn't air in the line. The clutch not releasing at high rpms is a well-known mechanical issue that seems to be present on quite a few cars but absent on others for no reason that I can determine. If it were air in the line, it would show up in normal driving. It's only a problem at high rpms, and with the assist spring removed it's not a problem at all. My only problem now is my pedal won't come quite all the way back up, which for some reason annoys me more than it probably should. If I can get a fix for this now much smaller problem, I'll be quite happy with the clutch.
If you want to know what clutch I like better, you could start with my 2010 Mustang GT. Had no issues of any kind, and worked perfectly. As did the majority of the roughly 500 manual transmissioned cars I've driven in my life (worked at dealerships in my youth, drove a lot of cars). When they slapped in the 5.0, they needed a clutch with more clamping force. But then they decided they needed the clutch to be easier to press down. And somewhere in there they cocked it up. Remove assist spring and you're 90% there. I just want the last 10% (getting the slack out of the top of the pedal travel removed) to make it just right.
If I was a drag racer, I'd have considered a slushbox. I like to turn, though, and automatics generally suck for that. To put another way, if a Mustang only came in an automatic, I wouldn't have even considered getting one. Not suggesting anyone who gets an automatic is lame; different strokes for different folks as they say. But for me, a manual is the only thing that works for what I like to do.
It isn't air in the line. The clutch not releasing at high rpms is a well-known mechanical issue that seems to be present on quite a few cars but absent on others for no reason that I can determine. If it were air in the line, it would show up in normal driving. It's only a problem at high rpms, and with the assist spring removed it's not a problem at all. My only problem now is my pedal won't come quite all the way back up, which for some reason annoys me more than it probably should. If I can get a fix for this now much smaller problem, I'll be quite happy with the clutch.
If you want to know what clutch I like better, you could start with my 2010 Mustang GT. Had no issues of any kind, and worked perfectly. As did the majority of the roughly 500 manual transmissioned cars I've driven in my life (worked at dealerships in my youth, drove a lot of cars). When they slapped in the 5.0, they needed a clutch with more clamping force. But then they decided they needed the clutch to be easier to press down. And somewhere in there they cocked it up. Remove assist spring and you're 90% there. I just want the last 10% (getting the slack out of the top of the pedal travel removed) to make it just right.
#13
I think you have something mechanically wrong with the throwout, the pedal itself or the slave cylinder. Ford corrected the cause of the clutch stickout on 2011 cars by going with a different clutch, better PP bolts and a Boss 8 bolt flywheel for 2012+.
#15
My '13 and buddy's '13 Boss (along with many others he races with) has the same issue so I don't think what you stated was the "fix". We discussed it and think it comes down to a weak pressure plate. We think it is strong enough to maintain contact but weak enough to not push the pedal back up at high RPMs. Of course we are not engineers but just using our experience with clutches to come up with our conclusion.
#16
They had problems with bolts backing out at or near redline. I believe they increased torque values.
My '13 and buddy's '13 Boss (along with many others he races with) has the same issue so I don't think what you stated was the "fix". We discussed it and think it comes down to a weak pressure plate. We think it is strong enough to maintain contact but weak enough to not push the pedal back up at high RPMs Of course we are not engineers but just using our experience with clutches to come up with our conclusion.
My '13 and buddy's '13 Boss (along with many others he races with) has the same issue so I don't think what you stated was the "fix". We discussed it and think it comes down to a weak pressure plate. We think it is strong enough to maintain contact but weak enough to not push the pedal back up at high RPMs Of course we are not engineers but just using our experience with clutches to come up with our conclusion.
I do agree that the clutch assembly still isn't up to par with the engine.
#17
I think what Snake is saying is that IF you had a stronger pressure plate, one could still have the assist spring on the pedal but the clutch WOULD be strong enough to force the pedal back at high rpm, assist spring be damned. And that would be an acceptable fix too; I like the feel of the clutch better without the spring (other than the slop at the top of the travel of course), but if it actually worked correctly with the spring intact then all the better. I guess to be concise, if the whole clutch system was engineered correctly that would be better than it is currently.
I'm rather surprised no one has posted about trying a 2011 GT500 pedal assembly. I'm getting closer to just going ahead with it to find out once and for all. Cheaper than trying a whole new clutch anyway.
I'm rather surprised no one has posted about trying a 2011 GT500 pedal assembly. I'm getting closer to just going ahead with it to find out once and for all. Cheaper than trying a whole new clutch anyway.
#18
I think what Snake is saying is that IF you had a stronger pressure plate, one could still have the assist spring on the pedal but the clutch WOULD be strong enough to force the pedal back at high rpm, assist spring be damned. And that would be an acceptable fix too; I like the feel of the clutch better without the spring (other than the slop at the top of the travel of course), but if it actually worked correctly with the spring intact then all the better. I guess to be concise, if the whole clutch system was engineered correctly that would be better than it is currently.
I'm rather surprised no one has posted about trying a 2011 GT500 pedal assembly. I'm getting closer to just going ahead with it to find out once and for all. Cheaper than trying a whole new clutch anyway.
I'm rather surprised no one has posted about trying a 2011 GT500 pedal assembly. I'm getting closer to just going ahead with it to find out once and for all. Cheaper than trying a whole new clutch anyway.
I've heard of the GT500 assembly fix but haven't read/heard about any success stories.