If you had to start over
#11
My car while still on the stock 4.6L factory long block, no upgraded internals, no upgraded heads.
#12
I'll try to actually answer the question you asked. If I had to start over:
I would do suspension first, followed closely by a 1pc driveshaft and short throw shifter.
Don't get me wrong, all the extra power is fun, but the suspension improved the driving experience so much that I would not have been so quick to jump on the "needs more power" bandwagon had I done that first.
I would do suspension first, followed closely by a 1pc driveshaft and short throw shifter.
Don't get me wrong, all the extra power is fun, but the suspension improved the driving experience so much that I would not have been so quick to jump on the "needs more power" bandwagon had I done that first.
#13
A new throttle body is completely useless for this engine unless you are running forced induction or a completely rebuilt engine that has almost every other modification on it already, so don't bother.
If I had to start over, I'd buy everything that I have now the first time out and a Steeda CAI instead of a JLT one, just because. Also, I'd spend way more time actually racing then surfing forums.
Start with a handheld tuner from one of the big brands. A dyno tune is a waste of money unless you are running a seriously modified car.
If I had to start over, I'd buy everything that I have now the first time out and a Steeda CAI instead of a JLT one, just because. Also, I'd spend way more time actually racing then surfing forums.
Start with a handheld tuner from one of the big brands. A dyno tune is a waste of money unless you are running a seriously modified car.
Last edited by CMcNam; 12-21-2015 at 04:48 PM.
#14
What I am getting at is the 4.6's rotating assembly will spit the dummy under boost at about where a 5.0 sits with merely full exhaust and an aggressive tune. Put boost on a 5.0 and it's 600 minimum, pretty much on any kit you like, with very low risk. It would take a built 4.6 to survive that power level.
Now, if mega-power ain't your bag and, it isn't for everyone, no problem. A healthy tune and exhaust work will net some nice gains on a 4.6 and make it sound really cool in the process. That's where I'd go first with that application.
Don't forget the small dollar things that make the whole experience more enjoyable, regardless of platform: A better shifter, tighter bushings and/or control arm work out back, custom trim bits inside, what's your fancy?
Now, if mega-power ain't your bag and, it isn't for everyone, no problem. A healthy tune and exhaust work will net some nice gains on a 4.6 and make it sound really cool in the process. That's where I'd go first with that application.
Don't forget the small dollar things that make the whole experience more enjoyable, regardless of platform: A better shifter, tighter bushings and/or control arm work out back, custom trim bits inside, what's your fancy?
#15
What I am getting at is the 4.6's rotating assembly will spit the dummy under boost at about where a 5.0 sits with merely full exhaust and an aggressive tune. Put boost on a 5.0 and it's 600 minimum, pretty much on any kit you like, with very low risk. It would take a built 4.6 to survive that power level.
My point is simply that the 4.6L block was not crap and actually loved boost, but the 3-valve was pretty much a dog when not boosted especially compared to the progress Ford has made with TiVCT and higher compression.
#16
Meanwhile...I guess if you're asking what mods to do with forced induction, I'd say gears. That's a great upgrade.
But like I said, if I was doing it over again, I would've saved my pennies and done the supercharger right away.
But like I said, if I was doing it over again, I would've saved my pennies and done the supercharger right away.
#17
The mod BLOCK is great, better than the factory 11-14 Coyote but, Average Joe has 10,000 reports of the stock 4.6 rotating assemblies letting go at 450-ish. Yes, it's all in the tune and no FI is easier on the rotating assembly than turbos but....
You've achieved something great there but, you admit yourself in the video it's "how much power til boom?" because you know you're pushing it. You've even have a built motor waiting. Why you'd pour that kind of money and time at assembling something and just roll the dice on a stock longblock is beyond me.
How's that bad boy perform at the strip? That's what I'd like to see rather than a few 30 second dyno runs.
You've achieved something great there but, you admit yourself in the video it's "how much power til boom?" because you know you're pushing it. You've even have a built motor waiting. Why you'd pour that kind of money and time at assembling something and just roll the dice on a stock longblock is beyond me.
How's that bad boy perform at the strip? That's what I'd like to see rather than a few 30 second dyno runs.
#18
Yeah, the rods in the stock 4.6 roating assembly are the weak point and are the first thing to let loose, bending and poking a window through the side of the block. I had already ordered the built long block becuase I knew that people were giving their engines teh block window mod, I had already told the tuner to swap the motor after getting the tune ironed out, he wanted to try pushing it to the limits, I had no plans for the original stock block and it wasn't really worth a lot at the time, maybe $700 on the top end, so I said go for it.
Here's a full on pull with the built block (upgraded rotating assembly and valve train)...
I'd have to say the pinnacle of the 4.6L was the 2003-2004 4v cobras and Mach 1's. The 3-valve was the bastard child/orphan that was "good enough" at the time.
Here's a full on pull with the built block (upgraded rotating assembly and valve train)...
I'd have to say the pinnacle of the 4.6L was the 2003-2004 4v cobras and Mach 1's. The 3-valve was the bastard child/orphan that was "good enough" at the time.
#19
Fawk, that thing must be making massive power to push a brick like a Mustang to nearly 200, it's even got an antenna and untaped seams....
On the stocker, I'd be worried about throwing frag through those expensive turbos if it let go. Had my share of turbo cars on kill over the years. the last one i monitored the centre section temp more than the rpm or speed bc I knew I'd melt the little pinner if it hit much over 850 degrees for a protracted period.
On the stocker, I'd be worried about throwing frag through those expensive turbos if it let go. Had my share of turbo cars on kill over the years. the last one i monitored the centre section temp more than the rpm or speed bc I knew I'd melt the little pinner if it hit much over 850 degrees for a protracted period.
#20
Fawk, that thing must be making massive power to push a brick like a Mustang to nearly 200, it's even got an antenna and untaped seams....
On the stocker, I'd be worried about throwing frag through those expensive turbos if it let go. Had my share of turbo cars on kill over the years. the last one i monitored the centre section temp more than the rpm or speed bc I knew I'd melt the little pinner if it hit much over 850 degrees for a protracted period.
On the stocker, I'd be worried about throwing frag through those expensive turbos if it let go. Had my share of turbo cars on kill over the years. the last one i monitored the centre section temp more than the rpm or speed bc I knew I'd melt the little pinner if it hit much over 850 degrees for a protracted period.
It also uses water cooled turbos (Comp Turbos). But yeah, those mile runs are brutal on the engines & drivetrain.