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Where is the fuel pump relay?
#2
Fuel Pump Relay Location?
I believe your fuel pump relay may be part of your CCRM. This is a multi purpose relay which supports more than one circuit, your fuel pump being one of them. If you don't see it under one of your seats, it may be under your passenger side fender, between the fender and fender well, just forward of your strut foundation. It's a bitch to get at if it has to be replaced. Your fender has to come off for that. Let's hope that is not the problem. The best thing to do is test for voltage at the rear of your gas tank. When your engine is in a no start condition, you will only see voltage for 2 to 3 seconds with your ignition switch on. If you are getting voltage between your CCRM and fuel pump, and your engine still does not start, it could mean your fuel pump is bad. To make sure, do this. Disconnect your fuel pump wire connector at the rear of your gas tank, just above your bumper. There will be two terminals in the wire connector, a black wire (ground) and a red wire (hot wire with key on for 2 to 3 seconds). Again, you need a multi tester that can test for voltage. You will need a helper for this test. Make sure you test the side of the wire connector that is coming from the inertia switch, not the side that is running to your fuel pump inside the gas tank. Touch the black test probe to the ground wire (black) then touch the red test probe to the hot wire (red). Now have your helper turn your ignition switch to the on position, if everytning is working porperly, you should see voltage for 2 to 3 seconds and that's it. Now if you do have voltage for 2 to 3 seconds, this would indicate that your fuel pump is bad. If you don't pick up any voltage, then you have to back track and test for voltage at both ends of your inertia switch. Again, your helper is needed to do the same thing. The red button on your inertia switch should be pushed down and stay down. If you only pick up voltage on one side of the inertia switch, then the switch may be your problem. If you don't pick up any voltage, you need to back track further. Check on this for now, and let us know what you find. Good luck, Tommy.
#4
Fuel Pump Relay Location? Update!
I just found a wiring digram for your year. Just a few changes. Looks like your year also has a Fuel Pump Driver Module. This module should be located behind the cover in the trunk on the driver side attached to a support bracket. Your inertia switch is also in the trunk behind the cover at the driver side tail light area. According to this diagram, your inertia switch wires are Dark Green/Yellow that comes from your CCRM, and Pink/Black that runs to the Fuel Pump Driver Module. Now, here is the confusing part, it looks like there are two wires that run from the Fuel Pump Driver Module to the fuel pump. They are the Red/Black and Brown/Pink. No matter what the color of the wires are at your fuel pump wire connector, one of them will be a hot wire. You can touch your red test probe to one of the wires, and simply ground the black test probe to a good ground source. Or, run a ground wire from the negative pole on your battery to the rear of the car. That would be the best ground source. Then touch the other wire the same way. With the key on for 2 or 3 seconds, you should see voltage on one of those wires. Hope this helps. Try this and let us know what you find. Good luck, Tommy.
#6
Fuel pump wire testing!
I just found a wiring digram for your year. Just a few changes. Looks like your year also has a Fuel Pump Driver Module. This module should be located behind the cover in the trunk on the driver side attached to a support bracket. Your inertia switch is also in the trunk behind the cover at the driver side tail light area. According to this diagram, your inertia switch wires are Dark Green/Yellow that comes from your CCRM, and Pink/Black that runs to the Fuel Pump Driver Module. Now, here is the confusing part, it looks like there are two wires that run from the Fuel Pump Driver Module to the fuel pump. They are the Red/Black and Brown/Pink. No matter what the color of the wires are at your fuel pump wire connector, one of them will be a hot wire. You can touch your red test probe to one of the wires, and simply ground the black test probe to a good ground source. Or, run a ground wire from the negative pole on your battery to the rear of the car. That would be the best ground source. Then touch the other wire the same way. With the key on for 2 or 3 seconds, you should see voltage on one of those wires. Hope this helps. Try this and let us know what you find. Good luck, Tommy.
Last edited by GT Tommy; 06-04-2009 at 03:04 PM.
#7
2000 GT Mustang Fuel Pump Wiring Diagram
Here in 3 sections is the wiring diagram for your fuel system. Notice where the fuses are. Make sure these fuses are checked with a tester. I high-lited some of the wires just to make it easier for you to trace. The colors I used have no bearing on the actual colors of the wiring. This diagram should be of help. It shows you where and how the wires are running. In the last diagram, the Brown/Pink wire is the hot wire, and the Red/Black wire is the ground wire. These wires run directly to your fuel pump from your Fuel Pump Driver Module. Good luck. Hope this helps, Tommy.
#8
the wirring diagrams can be confusing and you would assume the relay is in the trunk near the intertia switch, but the relay for my 97 GT was actually located right near the computer inside the passenger kick panel, you can check there for a relay and just identify the wires going into it and check the colors on the diagram
#9
Here's one from a 1997 GT Mustang!
Good luck, Tommy.
Last edited by GT Tommy; 06-05-2009 at 10:54 PM.
#10
Hi everyone, this is my first post.
I have a 2000 Mustang that doesn't start except for when gas is sprayed in the intake. I hooked up a fuel pressure gauge and there was exactly 0psi of pressure. I also checked for voltage at the brown pink and red black wires and get voltage for about 3 seconds after the key is turned to the on position. This leads me to think that the electronics are working fine. I have also taken the fuel filter off and nothing comes out of the line when the key is turned to the on position and/or cranking. This leads me to believe that I have for sure a bad fuel pump. The first thing I did actually was I put my ear to the gas tank while someone else turned the key to the on position and I could hear something that lasted for about 3 seconds so at first I thought it wasn't the fuel pump.
So can we say beyond the shadow of a doubt that I need a new fuel pump?
Also the car has sat for quite a while now, and when I took the fuel filter off, the fuel that drained out of it looked kind of brown. Do you think the tank will be emptied or will the engine still be able to run on it until new fuel gets put in.
Thanks for your help.
I have a 2000 Mustang that doesn't start except for when gas is sprayed in the intake. I hooked up a fuel pressure gauge and there was exactly 0psi of pressure. I also checked for voltage at the brown pink and red black wires and get voltage for about 3 seconds after the key is turned to the on position. This leads me to think that the electronics are working fine. I have also taken the fuel filter off and nothing comes out of the line when the key is turned to the on position and/or cranking. This leads me to believe that I have for sure a bad fuel pump. The first thing I did actually was I put my ear to the gas tank while someone else turned the key to the on position and I could hear something that lasted for about 3 seconds so at first I thought it wasn't the fuel pump.
So can we say beyond the shadow of a doubt that I need a new fuel pump?
Also the car has sat for quite a while now, and when I took the fuel filter off, the fuel that drained out of it looked kind of brown. Do you think the tank will be emptied or will the engine still be able to run on it until new fuel gets put in.
Thanks for your help.