You aint getting 522whp with a KB stage 2 with 9psi. ( I know I got one ) and if you do you better have a built motor.
Don't belive everything you read on thier site they are perfect world numbers probably running on race gas, with more timing in it than you would want to run on the street.

Real world (93 octane numbers)
2.6L 8 psi 456whp/433wtq
2.6L 10 psi 468whp/450wtq
2.6L 12psi 510whp/480tq (bent rod in a week)

2.6L stage 2 with Kenne Bell 130mm throttle body

14psi 525whp/500tq dynoed on a very hot day


These are real world numbers
Not Wally World numbers

 

turbos are more effecient, very expensive, if you go supercharger, your gunna want it intercooled, and don't forget about fuel delivery, injectors, fuel pump, fuel rails etc. going to want to have Upper and lower control arms, subframe connectors wouldn't hurt. i'm in the same boat as you, building a mean machine, i just got a procharger p1sc, and working many hours to make everything prepped to blow. doing a full engine on the side as well, forged pistons and rods, probably go dished pistons, can always port and polish heads/intake, cams always give that nice lope sound, but dont go over board with a blower if you decide on one.

 

He needs to perfect his launch. I run mid elevens all day at 119.

 

Most of the HO kits for the S197 kit come with intercoolers and a fuel delivery system capable of much more than the stock internals can handle.
Rear lower control arms are a must at the bare minimum in my opinion, but subframe connectors are completely unnecessary on the S197. It's a solid frame car.

 

I have a Whipple HO kit and love it!


KB's are good kits as well although 550 rwhp is gonna cost your stock engine. good luck

 

Dandy guys! Thanks for coming up with these suggestions! Right my goal is 550hp at the engine, that should do it for me I\m sure.. Sounds like I should ditch the turbo and focus on the Whipple and Kenne Bell Superchargers. I will talk to my dealer about it, we have a local ford dealer that has done a lot of cars over the last few years. See what they recommend and decide from there. I read somewhere (probably in Mustang 5.0 mag) that if you are going higher than 460 hp you will need to modify engine internals. Not sure if those 460 hp were at the wheels or at the engine though...

 

I just skimmed the last few posts but if it wasn't said already, you will need a new clutch if you have a manual. From what I hear the stock clutch starts to slip around 450whp.

 

I'm at 550rwhp right now and was previously at 510whp before my motor...to do it safe you gotta do it right and doin it right ain't cheap. haha

here is just a rough outline of what it took me

Paxton 2200 kit with install - $6800
Mcleod RST-$700
J&M billet LCA's w/relo brackets, installed- $500
MMR mod 800, kotzur racing stage 2 ported heads with competition valve job, BBR stage 2 cams, odds and ends and tuning $8500

$16,500

Not trying to be discouraging but it really does end up costing alot in the end if your actually going to run the car hard and not just put it around town...just from first hand experience...blowing a motor sucks haha. It has its advantages though...the only thing keeping me from 700whp now is an 8 rib kit, bigger injectors and a dual boost a pump, than this thing is really gonna be fun

 

Who said anything about that?
I'll kill them....

~450 rwhp is the "magical" number people have found. It's not an exact science but in and around that level of power rods start letting go at a much higher rate. The window for error in the A/F becomes much smaller as you approach and exceed that power, RPMs become a "how far will it go until it.....goes" etc. As long as you have someone who knows what they're doing and shoot for 11.0 as your A/F as any good tuner would you'll be OK.

If you're seriously concerned about blowing your motor I can show you a way to have boost on tap like a bottle. Give a turbo a boost controller and watch as you cruise around on 6 psi daily, only making ~380 rwhp but can turn it up to 10 psi with the press of a button. Having the power of a stock C6 on hand (somehow I pulled away from one on 6 psi a couple times) is enough for me. I don't need enough power to get my rear end loose to just drive on the highway. It's my most conservative tune and it serves me well. Don't knock the turbo for a car that you'd like to DD. I can drive without boost wherever I go, it drives like stock, just a little loud. At the same time I can drive it to and from the strip and I'm still running enough power to have an 11 second car (if I did quite a bit of extra work on the cars suspension, weight, tires, etc.)

 

In answer to the OP.

Buy a corvette.