rebuild on 2v - stay na or sc pros and cons
6th Gear Member
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 10,551
From: Texas
KBs are pretty darn street friendly and practical. You are at full control on whether you go into boost or not. You can cruise around as if it were 100% NA all day long if you wish.
OP
400RWHP with NA=$8,000 at a minimum.
Cons - Obnoxious street drivability. Absolutely no room to grow, your engine is already tapped for all its power. You have to rev your engine to the moon to see that power. Costs twice as much.
Pros - A really nice cammed up exhaust note(achievable with an S/C). You can say "I'm cool because my engine doesn't use compressed air"
400RWHP with FI=$3000 at a minimum.
Cons - None
Pros - Room go grow another 50-100RWHP depending on what SC you get, some have even more than 100RWHP over 400 to be gotten(with forged internals). Full boost at anywhere from 1/4th the RPMS to 1/2 the RPMs that a N/A engine needs to see to match that power. Way more street friendly. Costs half of an N/A build. Supercharger sounds badass, especially so with a Kenne Bell.
Choice is yours.
OP
400RWHP with NA=$8,000 at a minimum.
Cons - Obnoxious street drivability. Absolutely no room to grow, your engine is already tapped for all its power. You have to rev your engine to the moon to see that power. Costs twice as much.
Pros - A really nice cammed up exhaust note(achievable with an S/C). You can say "I'm cool because my engine doesn't use compressed air"
400RWHP with FI=$3000 at a minimum.
Cons - None
Pros - Room go grow another 50-100RWHP depending on what SC you get, some have even more than 100RWHP over 400 to be gotten(with forged internals). Full boost at anywhere from 1/4th the RPMS to 1/2 the RPMs that a N/A engine needs to see to match that power. Way more street friendly. Costs half of an N/A build. Supercharger sounds badass, especially so with a Kenne Bell.
Choice is yours.
6th Gear Member
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 5,183
From: Yadkin, Nc
Well I cracked my piston at 410 rwhp at 10 psi. OP stock motor will be fine to a point and recommend going with supercharger vs. na. You would be perfectly fine at 8 psi keep wrhp under 400 rwhp like 370 or so.
You will hear from people on the board that they are running 10 psi or 12 psi on stock bottom end but don't recommend it. In terms of what the correct power level is depends on the tune but also how you drive your car. So, 370-380 rwhp with a good tune you can drive the **** off of your car.
You will hear from people on the board that they are running 10 psi or 12 psi on stock bottom end but don't recommend it. In terms of what the correct power level is depends on the tune but also how you drive your car. So, 370-380 rwhp with a good tune you can drive the **** off of your car.
4th Gear Member
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 1,088
From: Shelbyville, Indiana
I read several posts from people who have done everything possible seeking that 400 bhp n/a goal (maybe 340-350 rwhp). I have also read many posts where they were disappointed having spent thousands of dollars and fallen short of their goal. For thousands less you can bolt on a basic introductory supercharger and make 350 rwhp on a completely stock motor. A couple of other external mods and you are at 370 rwhp (maybe 420-435 bhp). You can run that all day, every day and still get 20-22 mpg. I have been running at that level for two years and 48,000 miles (128,000 miles total on the car). I hope to run the car another 50,000 before I have to rebuild. I personally believe that superchargers are, without a doubt, the best way to go.
4th Gear Member
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 1,909
From: NC
Well I cracked my piston at 410 rwhp at 10 psi. OP stock motor will be fine to a point and recommend going with supercharger vs. na. You would be perfectly fine at 8 psi keep wrhp under 400 rwhp like 370 or so.
You will hear from people on the board that they are running 10 psi or 12 psi on stock bottom end but don't recommend it. In terms of what the correct power level is depends on the tune but also how you drive your car. So, 370-380 rwhp with a good tune you can drive the **** off of your car.
You will hear from people on the board that they are running 10 psi or 12 psi on stock bottom end but don't recommend it. In terms of what the correct power level is depends on the tune but also how you drive your car. So, 370-380 rwhp with a good tune you can drive the **** off of your car.
Please give me all your details. I am shooting for 400 rwhp SAFELY. But when I read that I got a cold chill...
4th Gear Member
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 1,956
From: NC
Everything below "OP" was directed towards the OP, not you.
I think you're absolutely right, you can spend 3 grand and have a solid street car and it would satisfy plenty. However, what is ok in your honest opinion may not be ok for another's desires for their car.
In this case the OP only wants 400 at the flywheel making that about 350 at the wheels. So really going with the package that you suggested would be perfectly fine for his desires. As long as he knows that he will have noticably less street drivability and no room to grow and hes ok with that, then what you suggested is the best thing for him to do.
5th Gear Member
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 2,638
From: Whitehall, Michigan
I was going to avoid posting here because people tend to be idiots, especially when it comes to the "I've heard setup A will do this to B and cause C to blow up in your face while D sleeps with your mother."
I'm at 10 psi @ 6000 RPM on my setup and I've had no problems so far. I'm basically dead on 400 RWHP at the moment. The blower has been on the car for two months now, and yes, I've boosted it basically every time I've driven it since then, but it's rare I take it far above 5000 RPM. Since it's gotten colder out I just spin off second gear above 4400 or so and third gear is too high speed. I can predict this setup lasting me a long time. It's extremely tempting for me to buy a 12-13 psi pulley but I know that's asking for trouble.
So while I can't comment on durability at these levels -yet-, as long as you don't beat the hell out of it, I doubt there will be any problems.
I'm at 10 psi @ 6000 RPM on my setup and I've had no problems so far. I'm basically dead on 400 RWHP at the moment. The blower has been on the car for two months now, and yes, I've boosted it basically every time I've driven it since then, but it's rare I take it far above 5000 RPM. Since it's gotten colder out I just spin off second gear above 4400 or so and third gear is too high speed. I can predict this setup lasting me a long time. It's extremely tempting for me to buy a 12-13 psi pulley but I know that's asking for trouble.
So while I can't comment on durability at these levels -yet-, as long as you don't beat the hell out of it, I doubt there will be any problems.
5th Gear Member
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 3,189
From:
not for the 2v. the cheapest option for the KB "feel" is doing the eaton swap from an 03-04 cobra. the blower itself you can get for a few hundred bucks, then an 1800$ adapter plate from torqueteck, and a few other odds and ends (all listed on torquetecks website). will be a couple grand cheaper than a KB. not as efficient and produces more heat but it is an option. you can also do the adapter plate and a whipple blower but that will probably cost more than the KB unless you get a cheap whipple somewheres.
4th Gear Member
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 1,977
From: Atlanta
ok so after reading everyone's opinions... I'd recommend you price out your n/a option and price out you f/i option, think about what your goals are for the car hp wise and reliability wise and little things like the I like the sound of cams over the whistle of the blower, we all know that you'll get more bang for you buck with the f/i set up but.... it's YOUR CAR and it's your build and your money so you need to do what you want and what you'll be happy with for a long time