I wish you luck and hope to hell you don't become number 12 on the list of people who had an MMR 3V motor take a crap. MMR sells garbage...period...

 

To the OP: Dyno numbers are about as useless as sand at the beach and are simply a tuning tool. Don't worry about dyno numbers, boost numbers, or any other numbers. Just focus on what feels fast and if you are staying on the stock rods, the 'secret' is not so much how much HP, but keeping your rpm's low. It's high rpm + detonation that kills the stock rods - and even forged aftermarket rods for the matter.

The real meat and potatoes that 99% of the people on this site just don't understand is airflow and cooling are serious players in the power world. It takes a lot more than a simple bolt on innercooler kit to do it right but it is possible if you work with someone who knows what they are doing.

Case in point: I have yet to see ANYONE make more power than I did at 15 psi no matter a supercharger, nitrous, single or twin turbo set-up on a 3V. The 797 rwhp at a mere 15 psi was 100% due to making the power as EFFICIENT as possible. THAT is the key to making power (making the most out of what you have)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oxQXp...layer_embedded

Well, that - and HOOKING it, which eludes most as well....lol

Lastly, don't believe anything is going to cost what you 'think' it is going to cost when it is all said and done, it will be much more - it always is so best to count on it; and the 'GOOD STUFF' costs money, lot's of it, and that is the fact in performance racing of any kind of vehicle. My new motor puts out over 1100 rwhp and is a bad mother, but it is also a $19,000 longblock...

 

nicely said modaddict

 

That video of modaddict's there never gets old.

 

I don't see what all the hub-bub is about in this thread. The OP want's 550HP at the engine for his DD that will see the track every once and a while. The whipple or edlebrock kit will deliver the power he wants, be reliable and will burn some nice rubber. All of this without needing an engine rebuild (probably...lol).

Some wider tires (perhaps what the GT500 has) & LCAs will help put the power down.


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Yep, this is ABC. Go with the flow, the popular SC kits are popular because they are easy and they work. The word plug and play comes to mind. Let some one else be the pioneer and learn from their mistakes.

 

Check your PM, I have several options that you will love.

 

For any part, the HP number DOES matter. Let not fool ourselves here. We all know that detonation kills, of course, but parts can only withstand so much force upon them before they give, detonation or not. You're trying to make it sound like the only killer is detonation and that is simpley not true. The stock rods, as you know, are not all that strong and will break with enough power WITHOUT detonation. If the numbers didn't matter then there would be no point in going with forged internals (you don't go forged to battle against detonation because you won't win). But it DOES matter b/c it's just physics plain and simple. I don't care how much you try to prevent detonation, even if you eliminated the possibility completely, if a part can't handle a certain amount of forces on it it's going to go. You're not going to defy physics no matter how hard you try.

Taking detonation out of the equation, 400 rwhp will allow the stock rods to last MUCH longer than 500+ due to less forces acting on them weakening the material.

Most who blow their stock engine did it because of component fatigue rather than detonation. This is likely true to forged as well since many get forged and think they can throw a lot more power at it than it can really handle physically.

Physics...it's a bitch.

 

good conservative tune and 550hp will be fine, bad tune and 400hp might kill it. honestly pick any one of the good brand supercharger kits and use their tune and you'll be fine. get greedy and try and tune every last hp out of it and you'll likely push it too hard and have issues.

factory tunes can usually be improved on simply because they're leaving a margin of safety in the timing so a tank of old gas doesn't grenade the motor and then you're pissed at them. tuning that margin of safety out can give you some extra power but then you're right on the edge of detonation and the huge PSI spikes that come with detonation are the real motor killers.

 

Great folks, thanks for the info, I am learning a lot here. I think the next step will be to get in touch with shops, incl brenspeed above too see what they recommend, but I have taken notes on all the suggestions/ info above so that I am somewhat prepared as well on what to look out for, and what to choose in the end.. Likely the mod will take place this winter (Wisconsin winters are good times to do modsm hehe). I will let you know progress underway. Please continue to give advise and suggestions!!