Spring Saddle Bushings
#1
Spring Saddle Bushings
Finished my rear leaf springs about a week ago - WITH YOUR HELP!!! A couple hours ago I was greasing the front end and noticed that the coil spring saddle bushings need to be replaced. I know I'll have to buy a spring compressor. How much more or less difficult and involved is this job compared to the leaf springs I just did? And, what might happen if one of those bushings gave way while I'm driving?
#2
I would say it is easier than the leaf springs, provided that your leaf spring bolts didn't give you a ton of trouble (some people have to cut the bolts). For me the leaf spring bushings were a complete pain to get in given how snug they were.
If my memory is correct, once you remove the front shock and spring with a compressor, the spring saddle will be right there on top of the control arm. Undo those two(?) bolts and you can replace it.
Rather than replacing the bushings, get roller spring perches instead as they are well worth it. I would also consider doing the shelby drop (which is a little more involved) since you'll have the springs out.
http://opentrackerracingproducts.com/rollerperch/
If your spring perch bushings are bad, you should also inspect the control arm bushings, they might be bad as well.
If my memory is correct, once you remove the front shock and spring with a compressor, the spring saddle will be right there on top of the control arm. Undo those two(?) bolts and you can replace it.
Rather than replacing the bushings, get roller spring perches instead as they are well worth it. I would also consider doing the shelby drop (which is a little more involved) since you'll have the springs out.
http://opentrackerracingproducts.com/rollerperch/
If your spring perch bushings are bad, you should also inspect the control arm bushings, they might be bad as well.
Last edited by 4reboy; 08-05-2013 at 05:53 PM.
#3
are you planning on lowering springs?? what i did with my 65 was leave the shock in place and i just cut a couple of coils on each side then i removed the shock and the coil fell out in pieces. the new 620 coils went in without the need of a spring compressor
#4
I would say it is easier than the leaf springs, provided that your leaf spring bolts didn't give you a ton of trouble (some people have to cut the bolts). For me the leaf spring bushings were a complete pain to get in given how snug they were.
If my memory is correct, once you remove the front shock and spring with a compressor, the spring saddle will be right there on top of the control arm. Undo those two(?) bolts and you can replace it.
Rather than replacing the bushings, get roller spring perches instead as they are well worth it. I would also consider doing the shelby drop (which is a little more involved) since you'll have the springs out.
http://opentrackerracingproducts.com/rollerperch/
If your spring perch bushings are bad, you should also inspect the control arm bushings, they might be bad as well.
If my memory is correct, once you remove the front shock and spring with a compressor, the spring saddle will be right there on top of the control arm. Undo those two(?) bolts and you can replace it.
Rather than replacing the bushings, get roller spring perches instead as they are well worth it. I would also consider doing the shelby drop (which is a little more involved) since you'll have the springs out.
http://opentrackerracingproducts.com/rollerperch/
If your spring perch bushings are bad, you should also inspect the control arm bushings, they might be bad as well.
#5
Not gonna lower.......will be replacing stock. Thanks though for the reply.
#10
The upper A-arm bushings are a solid metal-to-metal contact. They don't wear out as often as the lower.
After you get the spring out, just grab the upper arm and see if you can wiggle it. It should have a (kinda) firm up and down motion but no side-to-side.
The upper bushings thread out. Been a while since I did one but I'm pretty sure there is a left & right hand threaded bushing (one or the other one each side).
The lower bushing is a piece of cake to swap out. It's in there with a light press, knock it out with a hammer.
Keep an eye on your lwr control arm though. You don't want it to collapse while your bangin' on it. I've stuck a block of wood, socket, ex-wife's pictures, etc. in there to maintain the spacing.
Actually, on the ones in my '66, I've welded in a small plate across the bottom that boxes in the whole inner part of the lwr arm. Easy mod if you have a MIG and makes the lwr arm quite a bit tougher than stock.
I'm sure there are youtube vids out there that show the whole thing.
After you get the spring out, just grab the upper arm and see if you can wiggle it. It should have a (kinda) firm up and down motion but no side-to-side.
The upper bushings thread out. Been a while since I did one but I'm pretty sure there is a left & right hand threaded bushing (one or the other one each side).
The lower bushing is a piece of cake to swap out. It's in there with a light press, knock it out with a hammer.
Keep an eye on your lwr control arm though. You don't want it to collapse while your bangin' on it. I've stuck a block of wood, socket, ex-wife's pictures, etc. in there to maintain the spacing.
Actually, on the ones in my '66, I've welded in a small plate across the bottom that boxes in the whole inner part of the lwr arm. Easy mod if you have a MIG and makes the lwr arm quite a bit tougher than stock.
I'm sure there are youtube vids out there that show the whole thing.