Make own sequentials
07-30-2010, 09:08 AM
#12
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Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: KY, was MA
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MOOK, thanks....now I have to figure out what that all means lol
EDIT: Where/what is this schmatic from/for? I assume it's for the circuit I would be dealing with but any background info is welcome
EDIT: Where/what is this schmatic from/for? I assume it's for the circuit I would be dealing with but any background info is welcome
Last edited by smitty2919; 07-30-2010 at 09:24 AM.
07-30-2010, 09:33 AM
#13
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Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: over yonder
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oops sorry. I thought I copied the whole page lol. Here-
http://www.circuitdb.com/circuits/id/28
It's for LED though, not sure if you're interested in going that route or not.
http://www.circuitdb.com/circuits/id/28
It's for LED though, not sure if you're interested in going that route or not.
07-30-2010, 09:59 AM
#14
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Well it gives me another schematic to study how it could be done. I plan to make any and all mofidications only at the tail light harness. Which then plugs into the car harness inside the trunk. With the exception of modifying the stock flasher if needed.
Does anyone hapen to have the stock wiring schematic for the brake/turn signal?
Side note I came across some fomulas for the charging/discharging of a cpacitor:
Charge time = ln(3)*R*C
Discharge time = ln(2)*R*C
(remembering R*C is 1 time constant)
For full charge I found it is 5 "time constants". Or 5*ln(3)*R*C
Does anyone hapen to have the stock wiring schematic for the brake/turn signal?
Side note I came across some fomulas for the charging/discharging of a cpacitor:
Charge time = ln(3)*R*C
Discharge time = ln(2)*R*C
(remembering R*C is 1 time constant)
For full charge I found it is 5 "time constants". Or 5*ln(3)*R*C
07-30-2010, 10:09 AM
#15
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Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Ohio
Posts: 2,994
Well it gives me another schematic to study how it could be done. I plan to make any and all mofidications only at the tail light harness. Which then plugs into the car harness inside the trunk. With the exception of modifying the stock flasher if needed.
Does anyone hapen to have the stock wiring schematic for the brake/turn signal?
Side note I came across some fomulas for the charging/discharging of a cpacitor:
Charge time = ln(3)*R*C
Discharge time = ln(2)*R*C
(remembering R*C is 1 time constant)
For full charge I found it is 5 "time constants". Or 5*ln(3)*R*C
Does anyone hapen to have the stock wiring schematic for the brake/turn signal?
Side note I came across some fomulas for the charging/discharging of a cpacitor:
Charge time = ln(3)*R*C
Discharge time = ln(2)*R*C
(remembering R*C is 1 time constant)
For full charge I found it is 5 "time constants". Or 5*ln(3)*R*C
This is all I could find on that...
07-30-2010, 12:02 PM
#16
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: CA
Posts: 30
Well it gives me another schematic to study how it could be done. I plan to make any and all mofidications only at the tail light harness. Which then plugs into the car harness inside the trunk. With the exception of modifying the stock flasher if needed.
Does anyone hapen to have the stock wiring schematic for the brake/turn signal?
Side note I came across some fomulas for the charging/discharging of a cpacitor:
Charge time = ln(3)*R*C
Discharge time = ln(2)*R*C
(remembering R*C is 1 time constant)
For full charge I found it is 5 "time constants". Or 5*ln(3)*R*C
Does anyone hapen to have the stock wiring schematic for the brake/turn signal?
Side note I came across some fomulas for the charging/discharging of a cpacitor:
Charge time = ln(3)*R*C
Discharge time = ln(2)*R*C
(remembering R*C is 1 time constant)
For full charge I found it is 5 "time constants". Or 5*ln(3)*R*C
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/RC_time_constant
http://www.cvs1.uklinux.net/cgi-bin/...time_const.cgi
http://www.tpub.com/neets/book2/3d.htm
07-30-2010, 12:31 PM
#17
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Location: KY, was MA
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OK, I understand that, but now I can delay my bulbs with certain resistors and capacitors.
But what about the turning off of the bulb? Won't the capacitor discharge it's stored energy in the same time it took to charge up (not exact, but close)? Which I would not want. I want instantaneous shut off once the blinker flasher in the dash cuts the flow.
But what about the turning off of the bulb? Won't the capacitor discharge it's stored energy in the same time it took to charge up (not exact, but close)? Which I would not want. I want instantaneous shut off once the blinker flasher in the dash cuts the flow.
07-30-2010, 12:51 PM
#18
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Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Saint Augustine, FL
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<snip>I did some number crunching and guessed at these times/values:
For my middle delay of 1/2 sec, I would use a 10 microFarad capacitor with 10K ohm resistor. Giving me a time constant of .1 and a delay of .5sec (5 time constants)
For my outer delay of 1.5 sec, I would use a 10 microFarad capacitor with 30K ohm resistor. Giving me a time constant of .3 and a delay of 1.5sec (5 time constants)
I guessed at my .5 and 1.5 sec delay times and could be anything I want (within reason of available resistors/capacitors).
Would it be as simple as just to place my resistor/capacitor on my brake/blinker lead wires?? If so, I'm suprised no one has done this and still go to buy kits. I'm not a huge fan of the kits because they seem to make a hackjob wiring of your stock harness. My method I am only adding 1 wire (inner bulb) and splicing in a capacitor and resistor(for middle/outer bulbs)</snip>
For my middle delay of 1/2 sec, I would use a 10 microFarad capacitor with 10K ohm resistor. Giving me a time constant of .1 and a delay of .5sec (5 time constants)
For my outer delay of 1.5 sec, I would use a 10 microFarad capacitor with 30K ohm resistor. Giving me a time constant of .3 and a delay of 1.5sec (5 time constants)
I guessed at my .5 and 1.5 sec delay times and could be anything I want (within reason of available resistors/capacitors).
Would it be as simple as just to place my resistor/capacitor on my brake/blinker lead wires?? If so, I'm suprised no one has done this and still go to buy kits. I'm not a huge fan of the kits because they seem to make a hackjob wiring of your stock harness. My method I am only adding 1 wire (inner bulb) and splicing in a capacitor and resistor(for middle/outer bulbs)</snip>
If so there's a problem, as the resistors will not only limit the charging current for the caps, but also the lamp current:
Here I changed the capacitors to absurdly high values (20000μF) , and the resistors to low values (5Ω and 15Ω) --still no cigar (plus you'll need 10W resistors):
So, to do it with Radio Shack parts you'll need a couple of relays
Here's a .WMV file showing it in action, the fading of the lamps is an artifact of the simulation--I don't think it would be that noticeable in real life.
Also, the resistor values might need to be tweaked to get the timing you want--they can't be any larger that 180Ω or the relays wil not pull in.
In the last, I do not guarantee this will work as I have not physically tested it--however the SPICE simulator says it will...
Last edited by cliffyk; 07-30-2010 at 12:55 PM.
07-30-2010, 01:09 PM
#19
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Hmmm. Now does it matter if my capacitors are non-piolarized? My guess would be no. You showed the capacitor jumping from power to ground. My idea was to have neither the cap or resistor going to ground and have them in series only on the brake/signal wire.
This is the kit Devon said he got...which makes it look simple enough.
I tested the voltage to the plug in the trunk (where the tail light harness plugs into) and was getting readings of 12-12.6 for the brake light and parking light. I did not check the current draw.
This is the kit Devon said he got...which makes it look simple enough.
I tested the voltage to the plug in the trunk (where the tail light harness plugs into) and was getting readings of 12-12.6 for the brake light and parking light. I did not check the current draw.
07-30-2010, 01:34 PM
#20
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Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Saint Augustine, FL
Posts: 10,938
Hmmm. Now does it matter if my capacitors are non-piolarized? My guess would be no. You showed the capacitor jumping from power to ground. My idea was to have neither the cap or resistor going to ground and have them in series only on the brake/signal wire.
This is the kit Devon said he got...which makes it look simple enough.
This is the kit Devon said he got...which makes it look simple enough.
I tested the voltage to the plug in the trunk (where the tail light harness plugs into) and was getting readings of 12-12.6 for the brake light and parking light. I did not check the current draw.
Placing the resistor and cap in series with the tali lamp will do nothing--the lamp will not light--as the resistor will limit the current to the lamp, and even if the resistor were small enough to pass sufficient current, the capacitor (polarised or not) would block the DC voltage.
There are certainly other ways to do it with passive components, however all such solutions will require relays to switch the lamps.
Using active components would open up a whole new realm, a 556 dual timer in monostable mode (astable is the free running oscillator mode), a driver resistor, and a SCR come immediately to mind.