Getting a Welder... Suggestions?
#11
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I have a 220V MillerMatic that we have used a LOT, from making 40' flatbed trailer to doing sheet metal work on my 39.
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I also have a 110V Lincoln gas welder that worked "ok" but was not strong enough to weld in the slightly thicker gage metal of my firewall, so I bought the Miller ....
I have a 220V MillerMatic that we have used a LOT, from making 40' flatbed trailer to doing sheet metal work on my 39.
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I also have a 110V Lincoln gas welder that worked "ok" but was not strong enough to weld in the slightly thicker gage metal of my firewall, so I bought the Miller ....
i could sit here and preach about the 480/540VAC lincoln welders we use here at work and how much better they are then the 220VAC miller you have but its not fair just like the 110-220 comparison isnt fair.
#12
And,,, I can't think of anything on a Mustang that can't be welded with a 220V welder, I can't say the same about a 110V.
Context is important. If we were taliking about welding up ship hulls, or heavy equipment, and not classic Mustangs, the context would be a lot different.
In any case I am stating my opinion that Miller is the best value for the home car builder, and a 220V is better than 110V.
I bought a 110v Lincon for 4 hundred and something dollars, then I bought a 220V Miller for 9 hundred and something dollars, the Lincoln sits SELDOM USED in a corner of my garage while I use the Miller ALL THE TIME.
Just passing on the benifit of my experience, realizing that the 4 hundered and something I spent on the Lincoln ain't really doing me much good.
The 110V might be a great value for some folks, but not for me... something to consider...
Having never even used a 480/540 V welder, I will just take you at your word on these being better than a 220V Miller.
Last edited by JMD; 06-30-2009 at 04:38 PM.
#13
I have to agree with the comparison of a 110 to a 220. You cant compare the two. I do feel however that you can do anything you want on a car with a 110. You also have to take into consideration the portability of a 220 machine. how often are you going to have a 220 plug readily available. I had to have my garage wired for 220 for my TIG and my air compressor. I considered the 220 machine for my MIG but it is not portable. I have taken it on job sites and to friends homes. I can use my generator to power it. I think whatever rout you go you are fine whether it be a miller or Lincoln. They are both fine machines for the back yard mechanic.
#14
I have to agree with the comparison of a 110 to a 220. You cant compare the two. I do feel however that you can do anything you want on a car with a 110. You also have to take into consideration the portability of a 220 machine. how often are you going to have a 220 plug readily available. I had to have my garage wired for 220 for my TIG and my air compressor. I considered the 220 machine for my MIG but it is not portable. I have taken it on job sites and to friends homes. I can use my generator to power it. I think whatever rout you go you are fine whether it be a miller or Lincoln. They are both fine machines for the back yard mechanic.
It was not even coming CLOSE to penetrating both pieces of sheetmetal to weld in my firewall.
Turned on the highest setting, it would only make "wormsh!t" welds when joining 16g to 14g steel.... (the highest setting is "D",,, as in "A" "B" "C" "D")
My contention is that a 220V welder is big enough to do ANYTHING on a classic MUSTANG, a 110V is NOT big enough to do EVERYTHING on a classic Mustang.
The 110V welder is marginal when it is the ONLY choice at hand. If a person can AFFORD a 220 machine, and the house is or can be properly wired, a 220V welder is the better choice. I will stand by that opinion.
Besides,,,, why opt for a classic Mustang when a PINTO will do the job?
Last edited by JMD; 06-30-2009 at 05:14 PM. Reason: Pinto
#16
Maybe you have a bad machine and should get it looked at because i haven't had that kind of problems with mine. I have welded sheet metal and at least 3/8 steel if not bigger and had no problems. I have yet to have a call back on any of my welds.
#18
What I can say for sure is that MY little Lincoln would not do the job.
The firewall was made of a fairly heavy gage metal, but certainly lighter than a lot of the structure of a classic Mustang.
I did expect more from the Lincoln.
My Miller
My Lincoln
Could my opinion be skewed by my purchase of a defective machine?
Yep....
But even this says a little something..........
Last edited by JMD; 06-30-2009 at 09:31 PM.
#19
Probably true, but still, IMO, all else being equal, and honestly not even considering the merits of a 540V Lincoln, I think a person is a lot better off with the better function and greater flexibility of a 220 V welder than a 110 V Lincon (Or a 110V Miller as far as that goes)....
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eh sorry should have worded it differently. i ment it to be that when youre comparing brands you gotta stay in the same VAC input. compare 110 to 110 and 220 to 220 when talking brands.
i do agree 220 is FAR better then 110 and gives you a much broader range of things to do but i also agree with the other poster that 110 will do a lot on a car as long as its a gas system.
as for the 480 systems they are pretty **** haha. granted i set them up on robots & not hand welding but i can lay a bead on 304/304L stainless and have the bead 1/4" wide, 1/16" high and get .050" penetration and its as smooth as a babies *** with no spatter.
edit:
with a gas system the right pressure can be key. not enough gas and the weld is crap & extremely pourus to much gas and it just blows the puddle everywhere
Last edited by 65rangoon; 06-30-2009 at 09:35 PM.
#20
The Lincoln was simply not getting even NEAR hot enough to weld in the firewall pictured above.
I can agree that the machine might not have been working right, and if so this would certainly skew my view of 120V Migs, but either way, I am still better off with the Miller.