Help requested on 1967, 289 Stock to Mild Performance Build
#21
Another thought on matching valve train parts, which you may already know, but since I thought of it, I thought I would post.
Edelbrock heads have pushrod guide plates
pushrod guide plates require hardened pushrods (be sure oiling hole right for motor)
pushrod guide plates also require non-rail rocker arms
roller rocker arms may require taller valve covers to for clearance
Edelbrock heads have pushrod guide plates
pushrod guide plates require hardened pushrods (be sure oiling hole right for motor)
pushrod guide plates also require non-rail rocker arms
roller rocker arms may require taller valve covers to for clearance
Last edited by GT350R Klone; 12-01-2010 at 02:09 AM. Reason: another thought
#22
I'm running the JBA mid length headers on mine I think the part number is 1650SJS. If you do decide to get them have your H pipe made by your exhaust shop, do not use the JBA H pipe. It doesn't fit well at all. I got it when I got the headers and had to have the H pipe redone so it would fit.
#24
OK, guys, since this is a live thread and I am well on my way to building my engine (or having it built), I might as well jump into the pool as well.
Here is my build so far:
Stock 289 block (original numbers matching) bored .040
Standard rebuild kit dished pistons
Mild cam: Dur @ .050: 204 int, 214 exh; Lift: .448 int, .472 exh; Adv Dur: 280 int, 290 exh (not sure what all of this means but it matches the edelbrock one of you is using)
Edelbrock E Street Heads
1:6 roller rockers
New hardened push rods
Holley 600 cfm 4-bbl (No. 80457S)
Cobra high rise intake
Cobra oval air cleaner
Cobra tall valve covers
Now for the big question: What do you guys think about a COBRA open letter oil pan (7-quart "T" style that weighs 27 pounds but matches the other parts and looks good V. the stock stamped steel oil pan that weighs about 2.5 pounds ?? I am really at a dilemma with this one - please let me know. THANKS !
Here is my build so far:
Stock 289 block (original numbers matching) bored .040
Standard rebuild kit dished pistons
Mild cam: Dur @ .050: 204 int, 214 exh; Lift: .448 int, .472 exh; Adv Dur: 280 int, 290 exh (not sure what all of this means but it matches the edelbrock one of you is using)
Edelbrock E Street Heads
1:6 roller rockers
New hardened push rods
Holley 600 cfm 4-bbl (No. 80457S)
Cobra high rise intake
Cobra oval air cleaner
Cobra tall valve covers
Now for the big question: What do you guys think about a COBRA open letter oil pan (7-quart "T" style that weighs 27 pounds but matches the other parts and looks good V. the stock stamped steel oil pan that weighs about 2.5 pounds ?? I am really at a dilemma with this one - please let me know. THANKS !
#26
ya,. mickman, create a new post, otherwise this gets confusing :-) and use the technical section https://mustangforums.com/forum/classic-mustangs-16/ (not the general discussion one for bigger audience)
#28
So JH 67, can you give us an update ? Have you gotten all your parts in, and have you pulled your motor and started tearing it down yet ? Just curious, it sounds like you have your project going but I am interested in hearing how it's going.
#29
OK Guys, here we go!
All the parts have arrived and now with GT350R_Klone’s advice I need a little more than a week to get an engine stand to get started, I have a friend just down the street that has a hoist that I can borrow. Not sure what to start with first, once I figure out how to get the engine out of the car.
Please let me know of any other suggested parts I may need to have ready and if any parts need to be swapped from what I have, since I haven’t opened any boxes yet and most can be returned.
So here are the parts I have now on hand:
Edelbrock:
-1406; 600cfm electric choke carburetor
-Intake manifolds (still deciding which to use – leaning toward Performer but wanting to use RPM Air/Gap)
-2121; Performer intake manifold
-7521; Performer RPM Air/Gap intake manifold
-7220; intake manifold gasket
-Kalli; the intake gaskets do come with an option to block the exhaust crossover. The new heads don’t have any opening that mate with the exhaust crossover. But the Performer intake 2121 does have this orifice leading to the crossover channel while the 7521 does not.
-8524; intake manifold bolt kit
-60229; cylinder heads (2x)
-9680; head bolt bushing kit
-7820; timing chain (double roller)
-8841; water pump
-9300; GasKaCinch Gasket Sealer
CompCams
-CL31-234-3 (XE256H); cam & lifters
-17043-16; High Energy Aluminum Roller Rocker Arms
-159; Engine Breakin Oil Additive (2x)
-152; cam & lifter Installation Lube (more is better from what I have read, right?)
Mr Gasket
-80022 (6B) Blue-RTV Silicon Gasket Maker (Permatex)
ARP
-154-3601; SB Ford head bolt kit
Fel-Pro
-KS2328; Engine Gaskit Kit Set 289/302
Still need Push Rod Checker and Push Rods. And sooner than later; Headers & Valve Covers (maybe taller to clear Roller Rocker Arms)
I am very excited to get started and I am sure this will be an educational learning experience…
Thanks again for the guidance and support in this project!
All the parts have arrived and now with GT350R_Klone’s advice I need a little more than a week to get an engine stand to get started, I have a friend just down the street that has a hoist that I can borrow. Not sure what to start with first, once I figure out how to get the engine out of the car.
Please let me know of any other suggested parts I may need to have ready and if any parts need to be swapped from what I have, since I haven’t opened any boxes yet and most can be returned.
So here are the parts I have now on hand:
Edelbrock:
-1406; 600cfm electric choke carburetor
-Intake manifolds (still deciding which to use – leaning toward Performer but wanting to use RPM Air/Gap)
-2121; Performer intake manifold
-7521; Performer RPM Air/Gap intake manifold
-7220; intake manifold gasket
-Kalli; the intake gaskets do come with an option to block the exhaust crossover. The new heads don’t have any opening that mate with the exhaust crossover. But the Performer intake 2121 does have this orifice leading to the crossover channel while the 7521 does not.
-8524; intake manifold bolt kit
-60229; cylinder heads (2x)
-9680; head bolt bushing kit
-7820; timing chain (double roller)
-8841; water pump
-9300; GasKaCinch Gasket Sealer
CompCams
-CL31-234-3 (XE256H); cam & lifters
-17043-16; High Energy Aluminum Roller Rocker Arms
-159; Engine Breakin Oil Additive (2x)
-152; cam & lifter Installation Lube (more is better from what I have read, right?)
Mr Gasket
-80022 (6B) Blue-RTV Silicon Gasket Maker (Permatex)
ARP
-154-3601; SB Ford head bolt kit
Fel-Pro
-KS2328; Engine Gaskit Kit Set 289/302
Still need Push Rod Checker and Push Rods. And sooner than later; Headers & Valve Covers (maybe taller to clear Roller Rocker Arms)
I am very excited to get started and I am sure this will be an educational learning experience…
Thanks again for the guidance and support in this project!
#30
JH67, sounds like you are on your way. Hopefully you have enough room to store all your old and new parts during the cold weather - that has been one of my challenges.
You're going to need to keep your old dirty parts separate from your nice new clean ones ! Once you start tearing apart your car you'll know what I mean. Plus you'll have to chuck a lot of stuff too. But save all your old motor parts and clean them up and store them.
You'll have to decide as you go how much of your car you are going to replace. That will be the hard part. I've left my interior and original wiring as something to tackle later. I guess I've seen too many strippped down hulks for sale where it seems like guys have totally stripped them to the shell and then run out of gas, time, patience, money, or all of the above. So I'm trying not to bite off more than I can chew on my project.
Good luck and keep us apprised of how it's going !
You're going to need to keep your old dirty parts separate from your nice new clean ones ! Once you start tearing apart your car you'll know what I mean. Plus you'll have to chuck a lot of stuff too. But save all your old motor parts and clean them up and store them.
You'll have to decide as you go how much of your car you are going to replace. That will be the hard part. I've left my interior and original wiring as something to tackle later. I guess I've seen too many strippped down hulks for sale where it seems like guys have totally stripped them to the shell and then run out of gas, time, patience, money, or all of the above. So I'm trying not to bite off more than I can chew on my project.
Good luck and keep us apprised of how it's going !