120mm

I was thinking that, as well.

Of course, putting a heavier engine in it would help lower ride height as well....

1slow67

Yeah when you cut a progressive spring you are changing the spring rate that it was originally had. Unlike a linear spring which would have a constant rate.

66JameStang

I think you will like the rack. I installed a rack and after the break in period it handles very tight. I really enjoy it thoroughly!

Just so you know, even with the rust, that beamer has nothing on the classic!

120mm

Well, just got the springs from CJ Pony and they already come 1" shorter than standard springs. Started compressing the first one and am taking a break before finishing it. First, broken rib does not help with the process and second, these springs are sheer h*ll to compress. Holy crap, are they hard.

1slow67

Same ones I had I bet

120mm

I did two things tonight; My final replacement parts for my mis-ordered Unisteer unit came in (again, free) so I put together the steering column and the linkage. I did it wrong three times, then out of a lack of ways to do it wrong, I did it right. Note to self; never tighten ANYTHING, until everything fits together.

And after I had it all together, being especially smug because I remembered to save the bronze bearing for the top of the unit, I noticed this spring sitting there, on the workbench. Wiggled the steering wheel, noticing a distinct wobble. I suddenly realized that the only thing holding the thrust bearing down, onto its seat is that spring. Crappo.

Guess what I get to do tomorrow.

Ribs started hurting again, so I finished up by starting to compress the driver's side progressive spring, being careful to put the spring compressor bolt ends up, and spacing the compressors out correctly this time. Last night took the whole night to put in the pax side spring in wrong, but getting it to fit anyway.

God I love working on vintage mustangs....

120mm

Except for the six foot tall super model that drives it. Chick is really into the adrenaline rush; whether it's hanging out with me in a combat zone doing ethnography, (she has impeccable firefight habits), shooting competitively or driving like mad through DC traffic, I remain pretty blown away by just about every aspect of her.



I am treating my aches and pains with Vodka tonight, thinking about my next trip "downrange" and how the extra pay can be properly allotted to fixing up the Mustang. After I get done with this bit, I need to pay closer attention to the drivetrain.

120mm

Well, today I got ambitious and took on the driver's side spring, shock and perch installation. I thought I'd be smart and put the spring compressors on head side up, as the passenger side there was an interference problem with that end. Turns out to be a very bad idea. Got the springs stuck in the McPherson strut area. Crap. Finally got them back out and turned the compressor around on the spring, and resorted to Mr. BFH to make everything fit. This perch did not match the lower arm holes, so alternated smacking it, prying with a pry bar and turning the head of the perch bolt to get it to into the hole, caterwampus. Ended up torquing the bolt into line 1/4 turn at a time with an open end wrench as the arm was obviously misdrilled. Drunken poo-flinging Ford Union monkey strikes again! Took the steering column apart, but my fingers are completely numb from banging on cold metal that I am waiting until later to try that on.

120mm

Friday night I found someone to help me finish the Unisteer conversion. Tip to anyone who cares; you must, must, must have some way to brace the lower end of the steering column to get the nut on the steering shaft. I had my helper hold on to the lower end and push up from the bottom while I got the nut on the top.

I finished installing the CSRP brake assemblies today. A few things: the crossover tubes exist primarily, imo, to make a grown man cry when he tries to get both ends to fit into the female ends. One end, not a problem. The second end then defies any reasonable efforts to enter the brake assembly. After about half an hour of peeing around with this, chasing the threads with tap and die, and generally saying bad words, I stick a dowel in the hole and notice, that dammit, the holes are not drilled square to the casting and the flare end is stopping the b-nut from going in. So, I **** the b-nut off a slight amount, and it screws right in. No effort whatsoever.

Rolls eyes and sighs.

The other thing to watch out for is the f'ing anti-seize. When I read the incredibly detailed instructions in the kit (even including instructions on when to wash hands, take breaks and personal observations on how messy the grease is) I got really excited when I saw that anti-seize was needed. Back in 2005, when I took my first "real" aircraft mechanics' job, they issued me a one pound tin of Boeing anti-seize compound, with a grin and the comment that it was a "lifetime supply" I was delirious with joy at the opportunity to use some of my anti-seize.

The one thing you need to know about anti-seize is that the stuff gets everywhere. And it doesn't do brakes any good to get a piece of anti-seize in them.

Some comments on the CSRP KH kit: No kidding, this is the most thorough kit of anything I've ever seen. They include every-f'ing thing you need to mount the brakes, except for new lines, which our local O'Reilly's sells pre-fabricated in various appropriate lengths. And by "everything" I mean including both red and blue loctite as well as super-high temp grease which, like the anti-seize has incredible viscosity.

All I have left is to run new lines, mount the master cylinder, distribution block and bleed the brakes, and if the engine fires up, I can drive it.

I also have a "shuff, shuff, shuff" sound going on in my passenger side brake. Think I will take it back apart and redo the assembly to figure out why that is. It's not that bad, and I could pry break it in, but I may as well redo it once, just to make sure.

White05GT

Looks like you're making good progress.