JamesW

Judging from the rust in the driver's floorboard, you need to crawl up under the driver's side dash and look at the bottom of the cowl around the fresh air vent. You've either got a leaking cowl, or a leaking windshield

120mm

Will do that this evening. Several people Have commented on that.

120mm

Yes sir; I am on that daily. Lots of people love their crappy stuff, though.

I already have ordered a Unisteer unit. But these things can be resold. I will check out Opentracker, now.

120mm

Got a little package from CJ Pony, today. I normally fabricate my own sheet metal, but this was cheap, and the shipping was free.

Within minutes of the floor pan showing up, I got a nifty package from CSRP;



Yes, Virginia, 67 Mustang I-6 spindles ARE the exact same thing as 67 Mustang V-8 spindles.



If anyone advertises ANYTHING about 46 year old brakes as being easy; do me a favor. Punch them in the face. Getting to this fun was the opposite of fun.



10 year old battery in, charged, and top came down like a champ.



Sighs heavily... I knew I would find this. BTW, wire brush > angle grinder for blowing through rust.



This was as expected. Need to start cutting, now.



Just a little corrosion around the seat mounts.



CSRP manual disc brake kit, all present and accounted for....



Putting her to bed for the night. Need to go rust hunting tomorrow, as per JamesW's suggestion.

120mm

So, it's tomorrow. I took a strong light and an inspection mirror to the cowl and under the dash.

I am not kidding you, the metal under there looks bright and new. Not even a trace of rust. I am almost 100% sure this car has never gone out in the rain, and have developed an alternate theory; the engine compartment looks suspiciously clean. I think this means that someone hit it with a high pressure washer at one time or another in its life after I gave it up. (I didn't have access to one when I owned it) And the water entered through the steering column, which shows some rust on the engine bay side, ran down the floor boards and pooled in the rust affected area.

Either way, I seriously doubt I have a leak. It's just too pretty under the dash for it to.

So... What is under the foot panel? I cannot see it from the firewall side. And I'm a bit askeered of just cutting the rust out without knowing what I'm going to hit on the other side.

120mm

So, I am thinking out my next plan of action. I have everything I need to jazz up the entire front end. CSRP brake kit, Unisteer Rack and Pinion and a fairly decent idea on how to do the Shelby drop. If I buy a set of new shock absorbers from the local auto place, they will lend me spring compressors. I notice the rubber on the anti-sway bar is compressed and cracked; should I get that new as well? And while I'm at it, should I get a heftier anti-sway bar?

It seems to me that the Shelby drop will be easier once the old steering gear is removed and before installing the brakes. Weight of components removed should make it easier. What else is recommended to replace while I have it all apart?

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I did the research, and it really doesn't fit into what I am planning. The fact is, this car DOES have a nearly new steering set up. It only has 29,000 actual miles, and the suspension is tight. And I'm still not overly impressed with it. I put 28,000 of those miles on myself when I owned it the first time, and steering it was like working the tiller on a boat. I hope to get a bit more precise steering, and that's why I opted for R&P.

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My wife thought this would be funny. Guess who's cutting floorboards?



More goodness arrived in the lovely brown truck of joy.

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I've been killer busy at work, but I manage to spend about an hour a night on it, despite the broken rib. Today, another box from CJPony showed up with a pair of these, with brand new perches.



The Scott Drake progressive springs are on the way, from a different warehouse, evidently. Question: With the Shelby drop, does one need to cut a half a coil of the progressives? If so, do you cut from the top or the bottom?



This bit went on without a fuss.



Unisteer all hooked up and alignment halfway straight.

1slow67

You don't want to cut progressive springs, but you shouldn't have to cut them with the drop. I did mine only because I wanted it as low as possible. However, my ride suffered and rode really rough.