nametakennow

Hello! My friend is in possession of a red '67 6 cylinder (auto, unfortunately) Mustang that doesn't start. He's replaced the starter relay. He thinks the starter itself is fine, and assumes that it's something electrical, because the car started 2 1/2 months ago. I'm not sure of the mileage or anything, I'm hoping to get a good look at her tomorrow night. Anyways, I'm trying to narrow it down. First we'll check all the connections, but it'd be nice to know likely suspects after that. Ignition, starter, coil... anything else? He says there is absolutely no sound whatsoever when he turns the key. Also, can you give me more info about the car (torque and horsepower numbers, etc), or link me to a page with it? It looks like 3 cyls were offered that year in Fords, which one was it? It's 3.3 litre single carb, if I'm not mistaken. Honestly, I'm an new-import guy (not a ricer though!), so I don't know much about older engines... he says the car is in pretty good condition. I think there's little if any rust besides the exhaust system, which would be given, I'd think. TIA!

bob emmerich

Does it crank and not start? Getting fuel to carb? Does it have spark? Do you hear any noises when the key is turned?

nametakennow

It doesn't do anything, at all. That's the problem. We think it's electrical, but we have yet to be able to isolate it, other than we know it's not the starter relay, which he just replaced. I think it's the starter itself, or possibly the ignition, but probably the latter. Anyway, does that sound likely to you? Or is there something else we're not thinking of? And yes, he checked the battery and spark plugs.

Ian70mustang

To test if its the starter you need to bypass the ingnition switch and neutral/clutch safety switch. you can do this by making contact between the + in on the solenoid, and the smaller contact on it, the solenoid, marked "S" with sa screwdriver or remote starter. If that works then the next thing to do is to bypass the neutal safety switch and try using the ignition tumbler.

nametakennow

Sweet, thanks. We'll try that next!

gtrplyr52786

ya, my 67 straight 6 doesnt start either, i was told i gotta clean the connectors between the solenoid and the starter. check that wire, then the wire from the solenoid to the battery. cuz with mine, when i plug it in to a portable charger/starter, the lights go on, and for a while the solwnoid would click, but now i have nothing. as far as power, stock 120hp 110 torque

stanging

Also you might check to see if you have a good ground. Does your lights, radio, etc. work? If not use some jumper cables and hook it to the neg. side of battery and put the other end on a good ground (I used the exhaust manifold).

Mike

red347

Do yourselves a BIG favor and buy a $7.50 test light. It is the easiest way to find where and when +12V appears in the system. It will also pretty much tell you how strong the 12V signal is. I can't live without mine.

Ron

19tony67

You said that you check the battery, but believe it or not, you might have got a false reading, so an easy way around that is to swap it out with one in running car, or just pull a car up and throw a pair of jumpers on and give it a few minutes of charge and then try and crank it up.......but try pulling the tranny back into Neutral if it doesn't do anything in Park.....that way you can eliminate the Neutral Saftey Switch that resides when the car is in park.....at least that is what I have to do in my '67 coupe with a 289-4v......sometimes she just doesn't like park, so I drop it down into Neutral and it turns right over.

Good luck,

Tony

bob emmerich

A couple of things come to mind:
1)Dead or low battery-Must have at least 12.5V sitting
2)Bad/no ground
3)Bad neutral safety switch-This will cause the problem described
4)Bad ignition switch
Judging by the posts-I'd say it's either the battery or the NSS.