Engine Problems
09-16-2006, 11:52 PM
#1
1st Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2005
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Posts: 88
Engine Problems
I was driving the 66 mustang to Pigeon Forge today for the Grand Fall Rod Run and had ascended up over the mountains without a problem, but on the way back down the engine started sputtering as if it were running out of gas. It didn't die, just sputtered without any power. When I tried to accelerate, I would get no power. When I tried to idle it, it died. Initially I thought the plugs had fouled. The first thing I checked was the fuel. The accelerator pumps squirted plenty of fuel when the accelerator linkage was advance. There did not appear to be any problem with the gas supply. I then checked the ignition system starting at the plugs. I pulled #1 and #8 plugs, both were dry with a trace tan residue. (This engine only has 100 miles on it since my rebuild) I pulled off the distributor cap, and the inside of the cap and the rotor were fine. I have a "K" dual-points distributor. With the ignition on and wiggling the rotor back and forth, I was seeing sparking at only one set of points. I cleaned the contacts on the bad side and got sparking at both sides. Still sputtering... I checked the voltage at the battery terminal on the coil, it showed 5.5V. Is this correct? How far down should the voltage regulator step down the 12 volts voltage to the coil?? I loosened the distributor hold down bolt and tried advancing and retarding the timing but either direction only made it run worse, so I put it back at the original timing.
I'm planning to replace both sets of points, though I'm not sure why the points would be bad at only 100 miles. Should I replace the Voltage Regulator as well? The distributor is brand new, the coil is brand new, the wires are brand new, the plugs are brand new, the timing gears/chain are brand new.
Can anyone help me out?? Where should I go from here?
Tom
Bryson City
I'm planning to replace both sets of points, though I'm not sure why the points would be bad at only 100 miles. Should I replace the Voltage Regulator as well? The distributor is brand new, the coil is brand new, the wires are brand new, the plugs are brand new, the timing gears/chain are brand new.
Can anyone help me out?? Where should I go from here?
Tom
Bryson City
09-17-2006, 10:15 AM
#5
5th Gear Member
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Australia
Posts: 2,266
RE: Engine Problems
ORIGINAL: SpudRacer
I was driving the 66 mustang to Pigeon Forge today for the Grand Fall Rod Run and had ascended up over the mountains without a problem, but on the way back down the engine started sputtering as if it were running out of gas. It didn't die, just sputtered without any power.
I was driving the 66 mustang to Pigeon Forge today for the Grand Fall Rod Run and had ascended up over the mountains without a problem, but on the way back down the engine started sputtering as if it were running out of gas. It didn't die, just sputtered without any power.
it may have been getting too much gas
is it running ok on home turf?
just a thought!?!?!?
09-18-2006, 01:34 AM
#7
Join Date: Sep 2006
Posts: 3
RE: Engine Problems
Points create ignition spark when they OPEN, collapsing the coil and sending a HUGE voltage to the dist cap. My experience is, they use dual points to allow a longer ON time (points closed), to saturate the coil. It isn't unusual that you only see sparks on ONE set of points, as that is the last one to open.
Did you notice black smoke coming out of the exhaust (possibly from a very rich mixture)? Or, does the engine run sluggish throughout the rpm range? Your initial question made me think of a plugged gas filter (starving only at high demand), which might let the engine idle smoothly, carb pump squirts will look healthy, and everything looks good in the garage, but not on the road.
If you could, be more specific in your description of what's really happening, and when. Your ignition coil sounds just fine.
Did you notice black smoke coming out of the exhaust (possibly from a very rich mixture)? Or, does the engine run sluggish throughout the rpm range? Your initial question made me think of a plugged gas filter (starving only at high demand), which might let the engine idle smoothly, carb pump squirts will look healthy, and everything looks good in the garage, but not on the road.
If you could, be more specific in your description of what's really happening, and when. Your ignition coil sounds just fine.
10-03-2006, 04:05 PM
#8
1st Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2005
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Posts: 88
RE: Engine Problems
Just a quick update, I ordered two new sets of points, and a new condenser. Once they were replaced and I adjusted both sets, the engine fired right up. It's not running as well as it was before, but that's because I let some helpful roadside hands tweak my timing, idle mixture, idle speed adn who knows what else they adjusted. I've since got the timing readjusted, mixture set better, and idle speed corrected, now running much better and completely driveable.
(Also ordered a new 07' Jeep Rubicon Unlimited 4-door!! Woo-hoo) but that's neither here nor there.
Tom
Bryson City, NC
(Also ordered a new 07' Jeep Rubicon Unlimited 4-door!! Woo-hoo) but that's neither here nor there.
Tom
Bryson City, NC
10-03-2006, 05:51 PM
#9
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Join Date: Oct 2004
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Posts: 17,565
RE: Engine Problems
Just for future reference, you should be getting about 9.8 volts DC to the + side of the coil. Anything below 7.5 and you start having spark problems, especially if you are running a pertronix ignition module.