New mustang, 302 Questions!
10-08-2006, 03:27 PM
#1
3rd Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location:
Posts: 790
New mustang, 302 Questions!
Hello! this is my first post, because i got a 1971 mustang fastback! It has a 302 in it. I have a few questions about it. Im mecaninically inclined but this is my first OLDER car with no computers emissions, no need for laptop tuning ..etc. This mustang has already been rebuilt, mild cammed, and also has headers, heads, intake manifold, holly 4 barrel and thats all i can notice or the seller told me.
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j2...P/PICT0487.jpg
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j2...PICT0494-1.jpg
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j2...P/PICT0002.jpg
http://s76.photobucket.com/albums/j2...ew¤t=FBBO.flv
Burnout video ^^
1. What size rear end is stock? 8.8 or 9 inch
2. At idle and when giving it gas, it blows white Smoke out the Exhaust. If u hold your hand behindthe exhaust it its waterish collant. So this means i need new head gaskets right? The engine was built 15 years ago and then only driven 3k miles then was put in a barn and started once a month.
3. Several people told me my carb was on sideways?? Its a Edelbrock torker intake manifold with an adapeter to a holly 4 barrel carb. IS that a correct setup?
4. Back to headgaskets. When it was rebuilt, it was bored .030 over. What size headgaskets should i use?? Standard bore is 4.0? so i should use 4.030? I can only find 4.060 and 4.100.
5. How and where does the kickdown cable hook? I see a lever on the drivers side of the transmission that is not being used and i belive the cable should go from that to a carb linkage?? When the carb was changed a kickdown cable was never put on and it does not downshift now.
6. The car has a c4, BUT, wont shift/drive correctly in D. If you shift manually, its fine, but when you drive it in D, and floor it , it only carries rpm's up to about 3k before it shifts into second?? Is it supposed to be like that because the only way to tromp on it( gett higher rpm out of it) is shifting manually.
7. Is summit a good place to buy parts from?? they are close to my house 1:20 mins but curious if theyre good or not.
8. It leaks a small puddle of oil a night coming from the back of the oil pan, are oil pan gaskets common for going?? Also when replacing them should i use RTV and the gasket? or just the gasket alone?
9.
My list of parts to be bought for the engine(soon, within next week):
Edelbrock Performer Intake manifold
Edelbrock performer Carb 600 CFM
Intake gasket
Head gasket? Link from summit please for correct ones??
Carb gaskets and mouting bolts for manifold/carb
New exhaust( glasspacks are a little to poppy for me(car isnt running correctly and that also helps) Summit w/ super turbo kit.
Kickdown cable?? does it need brackets too?? Not sure how it hooks up!
How does that list sound anthing else sound like it should be replaced at the same time?? The same heads will be removed and cleaned and if they will be reused unless they are damaged bad, in which i will get edelbrcok performer heads.
Thanks for the Help and please answer as many Questions as you can! -Jon
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j2...P/PICT0487.jpg
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j2...PICT0494-1.jpg
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j2...P/PICT0002.jpg
http://s76.photobucket.com/albums/j2...ew¤t=FBBO.flv
Burnout video ^^
1. What size rear end is stock? 8.8 or 9 inch
2. At idle and when giving it gas, it blows white Smoke out the Exhaust. If u hold your hand behindthe exhaust it its waterish collant. So this means i need new head gaskets right? The engine was built 15 years ago and then only driven 3k miles then was put in a barn and started once a month.
3. Several people told me my carb was on sideways?? Its a Edelbrock torker intake manifold with an adapeter to a holly 4 barrel carb. IS that a correct setup?
4. Back to headgaskets. When it was rebuilt, it was bored .030 over. What size headgaskets should i use?? Standard bore is 4.0? so i should use 4.030? I can only find 4.060 and 4.100.
5. How and where does the kickdown cable hook? I see a lever on the drivers side of the transmission that is not being used and i belive the cable should go from that to a carb linkage?? When the carb was changed a kickdown cable was never put on and it does not downshift now.
6. The car has a c4, BUT, wont shift/drive correctly in D. If you shift manually, its fine, but when you drive it in D, and floor it , it only carries rpm's up to about 3k before it shifts into second?? Is it supposed to be like that because the only way to tromp on it( gett higher rpm out of it) is shifting manually.
7. Is summit a good place to buy parts from?? they are close to my house 1:20 mins but curious if theyre good or not.
8. It leaks a small puddle of oil a night coming from the back of the oil pan, are oil pan gaskets common for going?? Also when replacing them should i use RTV and the gasket? or just the gasket alone?
9.
My list of parts to be bought for the engine(soon, within next week):
Edelbrock Performer Intake manifold
Edelbrock performer Carb 600 CFM
Intake gasket
Head gasket? Link from summit please for correct ones??
Carb gaskets and mouting bolts for manifold/carb
New exhaust( glasspacks are a little to poppy for me(car isnt running correctly and that also helps) Summit w/ super turbo kit.
Kickdown cable?? does it need brackets too?? Not sure how it hooks up!
How does that list sound anthing else sound like it should be replaced at the same time?? The same heads will be removed and cleaned and if they will be reused unless they are damaged bad, in which i will get edelbrcok performer heads.
Thanks for the Help and please answer as many Questions as you can! -Jon
10-08-2006, 04:45 PM
#2
5th Gear Member
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location:
Posts: 3,645
RE: New mustang, 302 Questions!
are you losing coolant out of the radiator? It might just be condensation. Let the engine run awhile. The oil, could be either the gasket, or rear main seal. Pray for a gasket leak. The transmission just needs to be adjusted. There is a vacuum modulator on the transmission. When you pull off the hose, there is a screw you turn to adjust the shift points i think. I know the earlier mustangs all came with 8 inch rear ends, i dont know about a 71, it might have a 9 inch. You are correct about the kick-down cable. On my 66, it connects to the accerator pedal behind the engine. again, i dont know about the 71. I know my 62 impala's kick-down goes all the way to the carburator, and runs all the way to the tranny.... it's retarded.
10-08-2006, 05:07 PM
#3
4th Gear Member
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location:
Posts: 1,104
RE: New mustang, 302 Questions!
Are you sure that smoke is white and not blue? Blue indicates it buring oil and like 6mustang6 said, if you hold your hand at the exhaust when the enigines not warmed up, it will get wet. Just be sure before you go changing head gaskets.
10-08-2006, 05:18 PM
#4
5th Gear Member
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Marquette Mi
Posts: 3,566
RE: New mustang, 302 Questions!
ORIGINAL: Yonco
1. What size rear end is stock? 8.8 or 9 inch it depends, usually the Cleveland cars had a 9" but it was an option. It could be an 8" or a 9". an 8.8 is a late model rear end and totaly different from an 8" or 9" rear. how to tell if you have a 8' or 9" is simple. if you can fit a deepwell socket on the bottom two bolts holding the carrier in the rear end, its an 8" rear. if not its a 9", it shouldnt have anything other than an 8" or 9" in there
2. At idle and when giving it gas, it blows white Smoke out the Exhaust. If u hold your hand behindthe exhaust it its waterish collant. So this means i need new head gaskets right? The engine was built 15 years ago and then only driven 3k miles then was put in a barn and started once a month. Pull the radiator cap when its cold, start the car and see if there are a bunch of bubbles in the coolant. If its a blown head gasket it will either push coolant or air out through the cooling system. Does it still blow white smoke when its all warmed up? It shouldnt once its up to operating temperature if its only condensation, but if its a gasket or cracked head it probably will when hot.
3. Several people told me my carb was on sideways?? Its a Edelbrock torker intake manifold with an adapeter to a holly 4 barrel carb. IS that a correct setup? A Torker intake has the carb set at a slight angle from straight ahead. it looks a bit goofy but it wont hurt anything, the carb looks like its on there the right way in the pic. Would be tough to bolt it on sideways. Ignore people who say its on wrong. The intake is a bit much with stock heads, it would dive better with a Dual plane like a performer or a stealth. A dual plane will drive better and burn less gas, it will probably make more power since your engine appears to be relatively stock. I would put a dual plane on it if it were mine
4. Back to headgaskets. When it was rebuilt, it was bored .030 over. What size headgaskets should i use?? Standard bore is 4.0? so i should use 4.030? I can only find 4.060 and 4.100. just use replacement gaskets for a 302. The overbore doesnt make that much difference at .030 and often the gaskets are sized to accomidate it. (while the heads are off, go back together with a dual plane intake)
5. How and where does the kickdown cable hook? I see a lever on the drivers side of the transmission that is not being used and i belive the cable should go from that to a carb linkage?? When the carb was changed a kickdown cable was never put on and it does not downshift now. C4 transmissions dont use a cable for the detent(downshift) there should be a light metal tube that attaches to the carb linkage and runs down to the trans, ending up near the shifter arm. Its about a 1/2" diameter tube with flattened ends and looks like a z flatened out a bit and is about 4 feet long tip to tip. It probably isnt there and that is why you have early shifts and other issues with the trans. the carb you have doesnt have a provision to connect it. that is why you will see a carb listed as having the Ford automatic downshift linkage on it in a catalog or website
6. The car has a c4, BUT, wont shift/drive correctly in D. If you shift manually, its fine, but when you drive it in D, and floor it , it only carries rpm's up to about 3k before it shifts into second?? Is it supposed to be like that because the only way to tromp on it( gett higher rpm out of it) is shifting manually. previous Q/A adresses this, you need to find a detent linkage, connect it and adjust it properly. A modulator adjustment only gives you a 1-4mph difference in shift point. The goveernor and detent have ALOT more ssay in when the trans shifts. The modulator senses engine load by vacuum, which you will be short on because of the single plane intake. Switch to a dual plane, get the detent connected, and then have a trans shop adjust the governor if it still shifts early
7. Is summit a good place to buy parts from?? they are close to my house 1:20 mins but curious if theyre good or not.If I dont get it from them, I get it from jeggs. Both work great for me. I dont have anyone nearby that I can ger speed parts from, so I order them. havent had anything bad happen with Summit in quite a few years.
8. It leaks a small puddle of oil a night coming from the back of the oil pan, are oil pan gaskets common for going?? Also when replacing them should i use RTV and the gasket? or just the gasket alone? rear main seal is probably leaking. If its a pre 85 engine it wont have the one piece rear main seal, that means you have to pull the engine, remove the pan, pull all the main caps, lift the crank enough so you can get the seal back in there. If you have it that far apart, you could just as well throw in a oil pump, new bearings, and clean all the sludge out if not have it completely gone through again. Put a pan under it if it isnt more than a few drops each night. If it leaves a 12" or largere puddle taht is still wet every morning, get to pulling the engine to replace the seal
9. My list of parts to be bought for the engine(soon, within next week):
Edelbrock Performer Intake manifold Good.. been hounding you about this one. great choice
Edelbrock performer Carb 600 CFM Should be what you have, but be sure to get the one with the Ford trans linkage
Intake gasket
Head gasket? Link from summit please for correct ones?? any parts store will have them, a basic head gasket will work for you, might I suggest a set of AFR heads while its apart?
Carb gaskets and mouting bolts for manifold/carb you only need the gaskets, there should be studs of bolts in the old intake. just reuse them unless you wnt stainless show chrome or something
New exhaust( glasspacks are a little to poppy for me(car isnt running correctly and that also helps) Summit w/ super turbo kit. Have a similar setup for my 71, 2.5' mandrel bends and cermaic coated headers. If mine ever runs again it will sound nice
Kickdown cable?? does it need brackets too?? Not sure how it hooks up! not a cable, its a hollow metal rod/tube. I'll see if i can get a pic of one for you. A Mustang restoration outlet should have one, ie MustangsPlus, ulimited, The paddock etc.
How does that list sound anthing else sound like it should be replaced at the same time?? The same heads will be removed and cleaned and if they will be reused unless they are damaged bad, in which i will get edelbrcok performer heads.
Thanks for the Help and please answer as many Questions as you can! -Jon
1. What size rear end is stock? 8.8 or 9 inch it depends, usually the Cleveland cars had a 9" but it was an option. It could be an 8" or a 9". an 8.8 is a late model rear end and totaly different from an 8" or 9" rear. how to tell if you have a 8' or 9" is simple. if you can fit a deepwell socket on the bottom two bolts holding the carrier in the rear end, its an 8" rear. if not its a 9", it shouldnt have anything other than an 8" or 9" in there
2. At idle and when giving it gas, it blows white Smoke out the Exhaust. If u hold your hand behindthe exhaust it its waterish collant. So this means i need new head gaskets right? The engine was built 15 years ago and then only driven 3k miles then was put in a barn and started once a month. Pull the radiator cap when its cold, start the car and see if there are a bunch of bubbles in the coolant. If its a blown head gasket it will either push coolant or air out through the cooling system. Does it still blow white smoke when its all warmed up? It shouldnt once its up to operating temperature if its only condensation, but if its a gasket or cracked head it probably will when hot.
3. Several people told me my carb was on sideways?? Its a Edelbrock torker intake manifold with an adapeter to a holly 4 barrel carb. IS that a correct setup? A Torker intake has the carb set at a slight angle from straight ahead. it looks a bit goofy but it wont hurt anything, the carb looks like its on there the right way in the pic. Would be tough to bolt it on sideways. Ignore people who say its on wrong. The intake is a bit much with stock heads, it would dive better with a Dual plane like a performer or a stealth. A dual plane will drive better and burn less gas, it will probably make more power since your engine appears to be relatively stock. I would put a dual plane on it if it were mine
4. Back to headgaskets. When it was rebuilt, it was bored .030 over. What size headgaskets should i use?? Standard bore is 4.0? so i should use 4.030? I can only find 4.060 and 4.100. just use replacement gaskets for a 302. The overbore doesnt make that much difference at .030 and often the gaskets are sized to accomidate it. (while the heads are off, go back together with a dual plane intake)
5. How and where does the kickdown cable hook? I see a lever on the drivers side of the transmission that is not being used and i belive the cable should go from that to a carb linkage?? When the carb was changed a kickdown cable was never put on and it does not downshift now. C4 transmissions dont use a cable for the detent(downshift) there should be a light metal tube that attaches to the carb linkage and runs down to the trans, ending up near the shifter arm. Its about a 1/2" diameter tube with flattened ends and looks like a z flatened out a bit and is about 4 feet long tip to tip. It probably isnt there and that is why you have early shifts and other issues with the trans. the carb you have doesnt have a provision to connect it. that is why you will see a carb listed as having the Ford automatic downshift linkage on it in a catalog or website
6. The car has a c4, BUT, wont shift/drive correctly in D. If you shift manually, its fine, but when you drive it in D, and floor it , it only carries rpm's up to about 3k before it shifts into second?? Is it supposed to be like that because the only way to tromp on it( gett higher rpm out of it) is shifting manually. previous Q/A adresses this, you need to find a detent linkage, connect it and adjust it properly. A modulator adjustment only gives you a 1-4mph difference in shift point. The goveernor and detent have ALOT more ssay in when the trans shifts. The modulator senses engine load by vacuum, which you will be short on because of the single plane intake. Switch to a dual plane, get the detent connected, and then have a trans shop adjust the governor if it still shifts early
7. Is summit a good place to buy parts from?? they are close to my house 1:20 mins but curious if theyre good or not.If I dont get it from them, I get it from jeggs. Both work great for me. I dont have anyone nearby that I can ger speed parts from, so I order them. havent had anything bad happen with Summit in quite a few years.
8. It leaks a small puddle of oil a night coming from the back of the oil pan, are oil pan gaskets common for going?? Also when replacing them should i use RTV and the gasket? or just the gasket alone? rear main seal is probably leaking. If its a pre 85 engine it wont have the one piece rear main seal, that means you have to pull the engine, remove the pan, pull all the main caps, lift the crank enough so you can get the seal back in there. If you have it that far apart, you could just as well throw in a oil pump, new bearings, and clean all the sludge out if not have it completely gone through again. Put a pan under it if it isnt more than a few drops each night. If it leaves a 12" or largere puddle taht is still wet every morning, get to pulling the engine to replace the seal
9. My list of parts to be bought for the engine(soon, within next week):
Edelbrock Performer Intake manifold Good.. been hounding you about this one. great choice
Edelbrock performer Carb 600 CFM Should be what you have, but be sure to get the one with the Ford trans linkage
Intake gasket
Head gasket? Link from summit please for correct ones?? any parts store will have them, a basic head gasket will work for you, might I suggest a set of AFR heads while its apart?
Carb gaskets and mouting bolts for manifold/carb you only need the gaskets, there should be studs of bolts in the old intake. just reuse them unless you wnt stainless show chrome or something
New exhaust( glasspacks are a little to poppy for me(car isnt running correctly and that also helps) Summit w/ super turbo kit. Have a similar setup for my 71, 2.5' mandrel bends and cermaic coated headers. If mine ever runs again it will sound nice
Kickdown cable?? does it need brackets too?? Not sure how it hooks up! not a cable, its a hollow metal rod/tube. I'll see if i can get a pic of one for you. A Mustang restoration outlet should have one, ie MustangsPlus, ulimited, The paddock etc.
How does that list sound anthing else sound like it should be replaced at the same time?? The same heads will be removed and cleaned and if they will be reused unless they are damaged bad, in which i will get edelbrcok performer heads.
Thanks for the Help and please answer as many Questions as you can! -Jon
Nice lookin car, I hope my 71 looks that good when its done. Answers are in bold behind your questions. Sounds like you made a good deal, even if it doesnt have a Cleveland or bigger in it. no laptops here, prepare to get dirty!
10-08-2006, 05:28 PM
#5
5th Gear Member
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location:
Posts: 4,089
RE: New mustang, 302 Questions!
Nice car. But those chrome scoop inserts are UGLY.
1. If it's an original 302/250 car, it will have the 8 inch. Most likely, you'll have a 2.73 gear for an auto, or a 3.00 for a manual.
2. Check the oil for water contamination, and the coolant for oil contamination. Change all the fluids and make sure to get a couple miles on the engine. It could be as simple as condensation, or as bad as a cracked block. It'll be hard to tell without being close to the engine.
3. I don't know the bolt pattern for the Torker, but your carb is on correctly. The vacuum secondary carb is not well suited for a single plane intake. Before you decide on changing the intake, it'd be good to know what kind of cam is in the engine. If it's a long duration/high rpm cam, you will want that Torker intake.
4. Use the 4.060" head gaskets. The important thing will be the crush height, which is generally 0.039 inches. This will help determine the compression ratio of the engine. Before you worry about gaskets, make sure you actually need them. It may be cheaper to buy an entire gasket kit for a 302 than just a couple gaskets here and there.
5. You do need to hook up the kickdown mechanism for the tranny in order for it to work correctly. You should be able to buy this from a classic vendor like Mustangs Plus.
6. This is a result of 5. The vacuum modulator would be good to check, as well. If the car is new to you, you should be changing ALL the fluids (engine, trans, rear, brake).
7. Summit is very good for Ford products. I've never had a problem with them. Having them close to my house would be very expen$ive.
8. With an engine that age, it's hard to tell what's leaking. You could change the oil pan gasket and see if that works. Personally, I'd pull the engine and go through it completely to make sure everything's clean and in good shape. It doesn't have many miles, but it has a lot of time on it. I wouldn't necessarily go beyond the short block....
9. Make sure of what kind of cam you have before you change the intake. If you have a big cam, the Performer intake will kill it. The kickdown cable and fluid changes would be the highest on my list. Beyond that, you need to know what you have before deciding on intake and carb. If it is a big cam, get yourself a Holley double pumper, 600-650 cfm (again, depending on the cam's rpm range).
1. If it's an original 302/250 car, it will have the 8 inch. Most likely, you'll have a 2.73 gear for an auto, or a 3.00 for a manual.
2. Check the oil for water contamination, and the coolant for oil contamination. Change all the fluids and make sure to get a couple miles on the engine. It could be as simple as condensation, or as bad as a cracked block. It'll be hard to tell without being close to the engine.
3. I don't know the bolt pattern for the Torker, but your carb is on correctly. The vacuum secondary carb is not well suited for a single plane intake. Before you decide on changing the intake, it'd be good to know what kind of cam is in the engine. If it's a long duration/high rpm cam, you will want that Torker intake.
4. Use the 4.060" head gaskets. The important thing will be the crush height, which is generally 0.039 inches. This will help determine the compression ratio of the engine. Before you worry about gaskets, make sure you actually need them. It may be cheaper to buy an entire gasket kit for a 302 than just a couple gaskets here and there.
5. You do need to hook up the kickdown mechanism for the tranny in order for it to work correctly. You should be able to buy this from a classic vendor like Mustangs Plus.
6. This is a result of 5. The vacuum modulator would be good to check, as well. If the car is new to you, you should be changing ALL the fluids (engine, trans, rear, brake).
7. Summit is very good for Ford products. I've never had a problem with them. Having them close to my house would be very expen$ive.
8. With an engine that age, it's hard to tell what's leaking. You could change the oil pan gasket and see if that works. Personally, I'd pull the engine and go through it completely to make sure everything's clean and in good shape. It doesn't have many miles, but it has a lot of time on it. I wouldn't necessarily go beyond the short block....
9. Make sure of what kind of cam you have before you change the intake. If you have a big cam, the Performer intake will kill it. The kickdown cable and fluid changes would be the highest on my list. Beyond that, you need to know what you have before deciding on intake and carb. If it is a big cam, get yourself a Holley double pumper, 600-650 cfm (again, depending on the cam's rpm range).
ORIGINAL: Yonco
Hello! this is my first post, because i got a 1971 mustang fastback! It has a 302 in it. I have a few questions about it. Im mecaninically inclined but this is my first OLDER car with no computers emissions, no need for laptop tuning ..etc. This mustang has already been rebuilt, mild cammed, and also has headers, heads, intake manifold, holly 4 barrel and thats all i can notice or the seller told me.
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j2...P/PICT0487.jpg
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j2...PICT0494-1.jpg
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j2...P/PICT0002.jpg
http://s76.photobucket.com/albums/j2...ew¤t=FBBO.flv
Burnout video ^^
1. What size rear end is stock? 8.8 or 9 inch
2. At idle and when giving it gas, it blows white Smoke out the Exhaust. If u hold your hand behindthe exhaust it its waterish collant. So this means i need new head gaskets right? The engine was built 15 years ago and then only driven 3k miles then was put in a barn and started once a month.
3. Several people told me my carb was on sideways?? Its a Edelbrock torker intake manifold with an adapeter to a holly 4 barrel carb. IS that a correct setup?
4. Back to headgaskets. When it was rebuilt, it was bored .030 over. What size headgaskets should i use?? Standard bore is 4.0? so i should use 4.030? I can only find 4.060 and 4.100.
5. How and where does the kickdown cable hook? I see a lever on the drivers side of the transmission that is not being used and i belive the cable should go from that to a carb linkage?? When the carb was changed a kickdown cable was never put on and it does not downshift now.
6. The car has a c4, BUT, wont shift/drive correctly in D. If you shift manually, its fine, but when you drive it in D, and floor it , it only carries rpm's up to about 3k before it shifts into second?? Is it supposed to be like that because the only way to tromp on it( gett higher rpm out of it) is shifting manually.
7. Is summit a good place to buy parts from?? they are close to my house 1:20 mins but curious if theyre good or not.
8. It leaks a small puddle of oil a night coming from the back of the oil pan, are oil pan gaskets common for going?? Also when replacing them should i use RTV and the gasket? or just the gasket alone?
9.
My list of parts to be bought for the engine(soon, within next week):
Edelbrock Performer Intake manifold
Edelbrock performer Carb 600 CFM
Intake gasket
Head gasket? Link from summit please for correct ones??
Carb gaskets and mouting bolts for manifold/carb
New exhaust( glasspacks are a little to poppy for me(car isnt running correctly and that also helps) Summit w/ super turbo kit.
Kickdown cable?? does it need brackets too?? Not sure how it hooks up!
How does that list sound anthing else sound like it should be replaced at the same time?? The same heads will be removed and cleaned and if they will be reused unless they are damaged bad, in which i will get edelbrcok performer heads.
Thanks for the Help and please answer as many Questions as you can! -Jon
Hello! this is my first post, because i got a 1971 mustang fastback! It has a 302 in it. I have a few questions about it. Im mecaninically inclined but this is my first OLDER car with no computers emissions, no need for laptop tuning ..etc. This mustang has already been rebuilt, mild cammed, and also has headers, heads, intake manifold, holly 4 barrel and thats all i can notice or the seller told me.
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j2...P/PICT0487.jpg
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j2...PICT0494-1.jpg
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j2...P/PICT0002.jpg
http://s76.photobucket.com/albums/j2...ew¤t=FBBO.flv
Burnout video ^^
1. What size rear end is stock? 8.8 or 9 inch
2. At idle and when giving it gas, it blows white Smoke out the Exhaust. If u hold your hand behindthe exhaust it its waterish collant. So this means i need new head gaskets right? The engine was built 15 years ago and then only driven 3k miles then was put in a barn and started once a month.
3. Several people told me my carb was on sideways?? Its a Edelbrock torker intake manifold with an adapeter to a holly 4 barrel carb. IS that a correct setup?
4. Back to headgaskets. When it was rebuilt, it was bored .030 over. What size headgaskets should i use?? Standard bore is 4.0? so i should use 4.030? I can only find 4.060 and 4.100.
5. How and where does the kickdown cable hook? I see a lever on the drivers side of the transmission that is not being used and i belive the cable should go from that to a carb linkage?? When the carb was changed a kickdown cable was never put on and it does not downshift now.
6. The car has a c4, BUT, wont shift/drive correctly in D. If you shift manually, its fine, but when you drive it in D, and floor it , it only carries rpm's up to about 3k before it shifts into second?? Is it supposed to be like that because the only way to tromp on it( gett higher rpm out of it) is shifting manually.
7. Is summit a good place to buy parts from?? they are close to my house 1:20 mins but curious if theyre good or not.
8. It leaks a small puddle of oil a night coming from the back of the oil pan, are oil pan gaskets common for going?? Also when replacing them should i use RTV and the gasket? or just the gasket alone?
9.
My list of parts to be bought for the engine(soon, within next week):
Edelbrock Performer Intake manifold
Edelbrock performer Carb 600 CFM
Intake gasket
Head gasket? Link from summit please for correct ones??
Carb gaskets and mouting bolts for manifold/carb
New exhaust( glasspacks are a little to poppy for me(car isnt running correctly and that also helps) Summit w/ super turbo kit.
Kickdown cable?? does it need brackets too?? Not sure how it hooks up!
How does that list sound anthing else sound like it should be replaced at the same time?? The same heads will be removed and cleaned and if they will be reused unless they are damaged bad, in which i will get edelbrcok performer heads.
Thanks for the Help and please answer as many Questions as you can! -Jon
10-08-2006, 05:46 PM
#7
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Join Date: Oct 2004
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Posts: 17,565
RE: New mustang, 302 Questions!
These guys have all answered your questions. Regarding the white smoke, follow the advice and take it out for a long drive. When you come back, check it again. Most likely you have condensation in your exhaust system that needs to be burned off. If not, then get ready to tear down the top of the engine and replace the head gasket.
I agree about the hood scoops being chrome and ugly, and that mud flaps are a no no with classic Mustangs. You also need to detail that engine and engine bay. Otherwise, welcome to the world of classic Mustangs, and come back and post often.
I agree about the hood scoops being chrome and ugly, and that mud flaps are a no no with classic Mustangs. You also need to detail that engine and engine bay. Otherwise, welcome to the world of classic Mustangs, and come back and post often.
10-08-2006, 05:47 PM
#8
3rd Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location:
Posts: 790
RE: New mustang, 302 Questions!
Wow! Thanks for the replys! You sure do know what your talking about! On the oil, i hope its not that serious! heres a picture of the puddle. I ran it for 30 mins than parked it for the night and threw a paper under it.
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j2...PICT0006-1.jpg
I have the oil pan unbolted now and is there a trick to taking it off completly? That crossmember under the bottom is in the way. Do i just replace the gasket with the pan dropped an inch? or should the pan be able to pull forward enough to get off?? It seems to be hitting so i cant pull it forward. Guess that means i have to remove the starter/headers too!
After the pan is regasketed i will check the bubbles in the radiator. Actually, it wont stay running/idling till its warmed up. 2 days ago( when i got it) it idled a lot better and took less time to warm up than it does now.
Also i planning on getting this:
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...2D1405&FROM=MG
Is there much tuning needed or will it be "set" to bolt right on and go, Why im asking? Do i need the "suggested parts" calibration kit???
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j2...PICT0006-1.jpg
I have the oil pan unbolted now and is there a trick to taking it off completly? That crossmember under the bottom is in the way. Do i just replace the gasket with the pan dropped an inch? or should the pan be able to pull forward enough to get off?? It seems to be hitting so i cant pull it forward. Guess that means i have to remove the starter/headers too!
After the pan is regasketed i will check the bubbles in the radiator. Actually, it wont stay running/idling till its warmed up. 2 days ago( when i got it) it idled a lot better and took less time to warm up than it does now.
Also i planning on getting this:
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...2D1405&FROM=MG
Is there much tuning needed or will it be "set" to bolt right on and go, Why im asking? Do i need the "suggested parts" calibration kit???
10-08-2006, 05:48 PM
#9
3rd Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location:
Posts: 790
RE: New mustang, 302 Questions!
Also... Watch the Video and ull see why im keeping those mud flaps on till i get a set of DR's come this summer. they are already packed with an 1/8 inch thick of rubber
Also when i bought the car he told me it has a "mild" cam in it. Is there any way to tell by sound?? it idles a little high and then idles really low( or stalls if its cold) once you go into gear. And it takes about 3-4 mins of feathering the throttle/warm up b4 it idles on its own! -Jon
Also when i bought the car he told me it has a "mild" cam in it. Is there any way to tell by sound?? it idles a little high and then idles really low( or stalls if its cold) once you go into gear. And it takes about 3-4 mins of feathering the throttle/warm up b4 it idles on its own! -Jon
10-08-2006, 05:53 PM
#10
I ♥ Acer
Join Date: Oct 2004
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Posts: 17,565
RE: New mustang, 302 Questions!
Just thought I would add this so when you get all those irritating leaks fixed, you can start on detailing that bad boy.
http://www.web-cars.com/detail/
http://www.web-cars.com/detail/