Ripro

'65 mustang, 289 w/edelbrock intake/carb. The symptoms are a high idle, if i lower it it dies. when i get to a red light or stop i have to pedal the accelerator sometimes to keep it from dying after a descending, rough rumbling. on acceleration USUALLY there is a puffing noise which one mechanic says is it's running on 6 sometimes 7 cylinders. this goes away at higher speeds (60+) where the car sounds and runs normally. When it wants to it runs on all 8 cylinders just fine and then when either i let off the accel and coast or i get to a stop it loses a cylinder again. i have had the following done before i knew it was missing:

-i changed the spark plugs and oil
-Mechanic replaced the edelbrock carb with a brand new carb as he said the old one wasn't responding to the air/fuel tweaking. then after he charged me nearly 600 dollars with nothing changed said that it was because i had blown piston rings. he also timed it etc.
-next guy put on double gaskets for the carb... checked timing... advanced it slightly, which made it run a little better. replaced a section of fuel hose from filter to carb.
-i had the exhaust checked out because everybody was saying the noise was an exhaust leak, exhaust guys said it was fine.
-today this next guy ran more fuel line from pump to carb and put in a see through fuel filter, changed my ditributor from whatever fancy electrical it wasbefore to points w/ a new rotor.. changed the ignition wires. at this point swears it's the spark plugs untill i convince him not and then determines that the fuel filter needs to always be full. the filter is less than 10 percent full and it's missing. so he tells me he's going to have to replace my fuel filter and pump, run new lines and put in a new gas tank. after he left i checked the fuel pump (i know nothing about cars) saw how screwed up the hose was going into the fuel pump which was leaking 1 drop every 10 seconds. i pulled out the metal tube, stuck it into the fuel pump, cut the hose, and tightened the hose clamp. the car ran great for about a half a mile, and i felt like i was on top of the world ...... and then on a turn or a stop it lost a cylinder again. edit: at this point i stopped at checked the fuel filter and it was about 95% full.

Please give your input i have already spent the 600 on the carb, "distributor/advance" plus labor on the first schmoe, 250 labor on the guy today plus the new distributor, wires, rotor, filters, etc. etc. on something somebody here will figure out is very simple.

Sean W.

ahhhhhh big wall of text!

Ripro

thanks for the contribution i appreciate it.

THUMPIN455

Yeah its like lookin at one of my replys isnt it?

Okay.. What intake? if its a single plane like a TorkerII you are probably not getting enough vacuum signal to run the carb. Also if you have an Edelbrock carb on it, IMHO you have a pos on it. A small holley or 4100 carb would be much better. I know, its brand new but often they just run like crap.

have them check for vacuum leaks, especially around the base of the manifold. have them also find out how much vacuum it has at idle. It could have a larger cam in it that doesnt make much much bottom end and will also make the car die at low idle speeds. What you need is someone who knows how to work a carb, and who has the time to spend getting it right. if you were nearby I would hook you up for free. I am in BFE also known as the Upper Penninsula of Michigan.

Oh and be sure to keep all the old parts they took off the car, like the distributor and carb etc.. You dont want to used gaskets or stuff like that, but the hard parts would be good to keep.

Its really tough to figure out what is wrong with a car by reading a post made by someone who knows very little about them. its a matter of nomenclature, and jargon made worse by not being able to actually hear or see the car run.

Keep in mind it isnt a modern fuel injected vehicle, old cars have a temperment and special needs/instructions just to drive them.

mlitz

well that was i good story do you have any others....? lol just kidding

i was gong to ask you a bunch of questions but non sounded right here is the thing I'm gong to say and hope people back me up!!!!!

buy a commuter (if the stang is yours) and rebuild your engine, the mechanics are right it is a fuel problem but i could not pine point it because it could be a half dozen things, burnt valve (my guess) needs more fuel (bigger fuel lines higher LPH pump) and many other thing just same the money and rebuild your engine nothing fancy just something to get your self past!!!!

Bulldog66

My first question is...

At what point did the car start doing what you're explaining? Was this an all of a sudden change in drivability? Is this a fresh rebuild? Does the car have a million miles on it? Did this start and then stop then start back up again?

A little history on the car will help. The Edlebrock componets suggest that there's been aftermarket work done. Did the symptons start before or after those imporvements.

Lets start from the beginning.

ebluekeys

here's a cheap check to do. Compression test!! Beg, borrow or buy (cheap at harbor freight) a compression tester. Follow instructions and check compression. Do a LONG compression check and watch for "leak down". Could be a gasket, valve or plug leak. At higher RPM it doesn't have time to leak down. The same leak could be causing the vacuum to be inconsistent, which would cause the carb problems you are seeing. Betcha it's a leaky valve...[X(]

skiprCH

sounds like a vacuum leak to me. If you car is an automatic make sure your tranny modulator line is still hooked up. They line pops off easy when working in the carb area.
Walt

atomsk680

post *****




sounds like a vacuum leak

Soaring

There Atom, I fixed it for ya..... I am surprised the mechanics have not performed a compression test. That was the first thing that hit my mind after you explained the symptoms.