How can I make a 300 hp 302?
01-12-2007, 01:21 AM
#11
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Join Date: Jun 2006
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RE: How can I make a 300 hp 302?
Stealth and RPM are competitors, and the Stealth is a little better for power for a broader power range.
The price of a roller cam can be prohibitive and is not necessary to get 300hp.
By far, the easiest way would be a crate engine, especially if you're unfamiliar with the mechanics of an engine and how to extract power. At least look at what the crates have in them to get a good idea of what you'll need. BTW, stay around .5 lift with stock heads. You won't gain a lot with more lift, without a lot of work, anyway (which isn't really worth it these days...assembled aftermarket heads are very inexpensive).
Headers will help, but no need to get something very large with stock heads. 1.5" primaries would work well.
The price of a roller cam can be prohibitive and is not necessary to get 300hp.
By far, the easiest way would be a crate engine, especially if you're unfamiliar with the mechanics of an engine and how to extract power. At least look at what the crates have in them to get a good idea of what you'll need. BTW, stay around .5 lift with stock heads. You won't gain a lot with more lift, without a lot of work, anyway (which isn't really worth it these days...assembled aftermarket heads are very inexpensive).
Headers will help, but no need to get something very large with stock heads. 1.5" primaries would work well.
01-12-2007, 02:37 AM
#12
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Join Date: May 2006
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RE: How can I make a 300 hp 302?
well i am not an idiot i know not to take much out i read and read and i did do it to some junkers b4 just to see how it went and it wasn't too hard but you do need a firm steady hand and the guy at the head shop clleaned up what i did for a lot less than having him do it and he told me that it wasn't too bad but if i really wanted to i could went down to a person that i just happen to know that built nascar heads and know the ins and outs of them really well i showed him what i did and he said not bad for a beginner
01-12-2007, 03:20 PM
#15
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RE: How can I make a 300 hp 302?
I gotta agree with 77stang. Having ported a few sets of heads, and having them flowed after porting, a couple of them I should have left alone. Its not about a bigger hole, its about keeping the airflow fast and the fuel in suspension, while increasing flow. I knew that before I started to grind, and still they were all over the place. most porting is cosmetic anyway, unless you have a quantifiable result from a flowbench telling you how much it has improved, you have no idea if what you did helped or hurt the power.
If you want to try it, go ahead and try it. Chances are you will waste your time, and also you run the risk of screwing up a head that was good before you started by finding water or cuting a seat . A dremel tool isnt gonna get it either, that isnt porting its polishing.. and it might help a little if you are lucky. With a kickbutt diegrinder, plenty of air, and stupid expensive bits it still took me roughly 4 hours per port just to rough them out. Two engines with my heads did run better, but imagine if I had my own flowbench and took the time to learn where to remove metal from. unless you know that bit of info, you are mostly wasting time.
With a stock Ford 302 head compared to an aftermarket head (even a GT40) its a waste of time to port them, and money as well, because you still need guides, valve job, springs, and possibly valvs and seats and still the flow wont be as good as the aftermarket head.
If you want 300hp, ditch the stock heads. get some AFR 190 heads, I like the XE274 cam its kinda rowdy and will need a higher stall converter with a 302, and an RPM intake with a 650 vacuum secondary carb. Add a 2400 or 2800 stall, 3.55-4.11 gears and you will have alot of fun with that little engine.
If you want to try it, go ahead and try it. Chances are you will waste your time, and also you run the risk of screwing up a head that was good before you started by finding water or cuting a seat . A dremel tool isnt gonna get it either, that isnt porting its polishing.. and it might help a little if you are lucky. With a kickbutt diegrinder, plenty of air, and stupid expensive bits it still took me roughly 4 hours per port just to rough them out. Two engines with my heads did run better, but imagine if I had my own flowbench and took the time to learn where to remove metal from. unless you know that bit of info, you are mostly wasting time.
With a stock Ford 302 head compared to an aftermarket head (even a GT40) its a waste of time to port them, and money as well, because you still need guides, valve job, springs, and possibly valvs and seats and still the flow wont be as good as the aftermarket head.
If you want 300hp, ditch the stock heads. get some AFR 190 heads, I like the XE274 cam its kinda rowdy and will need a higher stall converter with a 302, and an RPM intake with a 650 vacuum secondary carb. Add a 2400 or 2800 stall, 3.55-4.11 gears and you will have alot of fun with that little engine.
01-12-2007, 04:57 PM
#16
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RE: How can I make a 300 hp 302?
ORIGINAL: THUMPIN455
I gotta agree with 77stang. Having ported a few sets of heads, and having them flowed after porting, a couple of them I should have left alone. Its not about a bigger hole, its about keeping the airflow fast and the fuel in suspension, while increasing flow. I knew that before I started to grind, and still they were all over the place. most porting is cosmetic anyway, unless you have a quantifiable result from a flowbench telling you how much it has improved, you have no idea if what you did helped or hurt the power.
If you want to try it, go ahead and try it. Chances are you will waste your time, and also you run the risk of screwing up a head that was good before you started by finding water or cuting a seat . A dremel tool isnt gonna get it either, that isnt porting its polishing.. and it might help a little if you are lucky. With a kickbutt diegrinder, plenty of air, and stupid expensive bits it still took me roughly 4 hours per port just to rough them out. Two engines with my heads did run better, but imagine if I had my own flowbench and took the time to learn where to remove metal from. unless you know that bit of info, you are mostly wasting time.
With a stock Ford 302 head compared to an aftermarket head (even a GT40) its a waste of time to port them, and money as well, because you still need guides, valve job, springs, and possibly valvs and seats and still the flow wont be as good as the aftermarket head.
If you want 300hp, ditch the stock heads. get some AFR 190 heads, I like the XE274 cam its kinda rowdy and will need a higher stall converter with a 302, and an RPM intake with a 650 vacuum secondary carb. Add a 2400 or 2800 stall, 3.55-4.11 gears and you will have alot of fun with that little engine.
I gotta agree with 77stang. Having ported a few sets of heads, and having them flowed after porting, a couple of them I should have left alone. Its not about a bigger hole, its about keeping the airflow fast and the fuel in suspension, while increasing flow. I knew that before I started to grind, and still they were all over the place. most porting is cosmetic anyway, unless you have a quantifiable result from a flowbench telling you how much it has improved, you have no idea if what you did helped or hurt the power.
If you want to try it, go ahead and try it. Chances are you will waste your time, and also you run the risk of screwing up a head that was good before you started by finding water or cuting a seat . A dremel tool isnt gonna get it either, that isnt porting its polishing.. and it might help a little if you are lucky. With a kickbutt diegrinder, plenty of air, and stupid expensive bits it still took me roughly 4 hours per port just to rough them out. Two engines with my heads did run better, but imagine if I had my own flowbench and took the time to learn where to remove metal from. unless you know that bit of info, you are mostly wasting time.
With a stock Ford 302 head compared to an aftermarket head (even a GT40) its a waste of time to port them, and money as well, because you still need guides, valve job, springs, and possibly valvs and seats and still the flow wont be as good as the aftermarket head.
If you want 300hp, ditch the stock heads. get some AFR 190 heads, I like the XE274 cam its kinda rowdy and will need a higher stall converter with a 302, and an RPM intake with a 650 vacuum secondary carb. Add a 2400 or 2800 stall, 3.55-4.11 gears and you will have alot of fun with that little engine.
01-12-2007, 05:25 PM
#17
6th Gear Member
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Citrus County, FL
Posts: 8,007
RE: How can I make a 300 hp 302?
a decent machine shop will have carbide cutting tools for doing the bowl porting. this can give some decent gains and can be kept equal from cylinder to cylinder. we would offer "machine porting" but would not touch anything by hand.
we used these....
http://www.serdi.com/cust/machine.aspx?mcid=9
we used these....
http://www.serdi.com/cust/machine.aspx?mcid=9
01-12-2007, 06:11 PM
#19
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Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Citrus County, FL
Posts: 8,007
RE: How can I make a 300 hp 302?
when the shop i worked at closed, i could have bought a serdi with all the tooling, a leterson twin head drill press with floating table, a rottler cbn decking machine, valve grinder, and a butt load of misc head cores for like 10k
i wish i woulda had the money, i woulda bought it all
i wish i woulda had the money, i woulda bought it all
01-12-2007, 07:54 PM
#20
2nd Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2005
Posts: 155
RE: How can I make a 300 hp 302?
well the story goes like this... 11 years ago I was 15, and my father and I wanted to restore a car together. We wanted either a VW bug or an early mustang. we opted for the bug and I entered the VW scene. As for my motor building, I built that motor with my father, have built numerous small gas engines, I now build race/alcohol small engines for my go kart racing, and I've also built the top end of the 98 Jetta... so needless to say I know a little bit about engines, and I also teach high school automotives, so I'm not afraid of doing anything.
Anyways, I picked up this 66 Mustang basket case from a friend with a complete parts car and had the parts car running in about 2 hours. I was rotted to hell, so I stuffed the drivetrain in the roller and went from there. As of this moment the 6 runs decent and I'm in no rush to pull it out. The plan all along has been to make the car a 5 speed with a 302 so while I do the body and electrical and minor things to the 6, i keep my eyes out for the parts to do the v8 swap.
Well the 302 that I ended up getting for free from a student had so few miles on it, that my original thought of putting aluminum heads on it now seem like wasted money because the motor is so fresh. So I wanted to get everyone's opinions and thank you!
The motor is already electroninc ignition, and i do need to pull the cam and profile it to see what it is... but lets say i put the matched edelbrock performer cam with the set of headers... what kind of numbers are we looking at? what are some other good cams with the performer manifold and 600 carb. My stock VW valve train handles 1/2 lift, the mustangs really doesn't? And finally my heads and engine are remanufactured, i know the motor was punched out to 310, would remanufactured heads cut the valve seat larger and run a bigger valve?
Thanks! Bryan
Anyways, I picked up this 66 Mustang basket case from a friend with a complete parts car and had the parts car running in about 2 hours. I was rotted to hell, so I stuffed the drivetrain in the roller and went from there. As of this moment the 6 runs decent and I'm in no rush to pull it out. The plan all along has been to make the car a 5 speed with a 302 so while I do the body and electrical and minor things to the 6, i keep my eyes out for the parts to do the v8 swap.
Well the 302 that I ended up getting for free from a student had so few miles on it, that my original thought of putting aluminum heads on it now seem like wasted money because the motor is so fresh. So I wanted to get everyone's opinions and thank you!
The motor is already electroninc ignition, and i do need to pull the cam and profile it to see what it is... but lets say i put the matched edelbrock performer cam with the set of headers... what kind of numbers are we looking at? what are some other good cams with the performer manifold and 600 carb. My stock VW valve train handles 1/2 lift, the mustangs really doesn't? And finally my heads and engine are remanufactured, i know the motor was punched out to 310, would remanufactured heads cut the valve seat larger and run a bigger valve?
Thanks! Bryan