superdavid

To be honest, if I were to start over from scratch, I would at least look into getting a fastback. The end value will be so much more and it shouldnt cost much more to build...

JMD

Hey RGH, If this is your first project car it will be a tough one. The first project was about the same as yours only older. I have done lots of projects since, but I still have not finished my first, I do still have it.

I have some controversial advice that I can not resist giving to you.

Buy a good, clean, rust free andcheap 6 cylinder mustang and use the parts from the green machine to make a nice, easy, and quick build, sell the shell and cruise!

With what you already have it should be relativly cheap, and a bolt in afair.

connor90

if you dont mind me asking, how much did you pay for it?

RGH69

I haven't received it yet. It may have been too mch from the sound of the above advice. I just hope that a body shop can get it in shape without breaking the bank.

1967inline6MUSTANG

i saw that car on e-Bay..i hope the rest of the car comes with it...good luck..

boeing747arowair

PM with those A pillars. they chop off the drip rails? I was thinking about doing that since they seem worse than yours[&:].

THUMPIN455

HUGE project, but not impossible. The primer hides bad stuff easily, and the plate on the strutrod brace concerns me, but it doesnt look like its a complete rust bucket. When you get it, finding out what is all there is the first thing to do. Having a body shop do the work isnt a bad idea, but make sure you get a good one. They dont make much money on cars like this so they tend to get pushed back in the schedule, but some guys like to do the work on the old stuff.

The drip rails being gone makes me wonder why. How much it costs you depends on how nice and how original you want it to be.

Bulldog66

You sure jumped right off into it w/ both feet on this project as a first one. If it's indeed what you want to do, then get on it and don't look back. You're going to put way, way more money into it than you'll ever get out of it, so don't start looking at reciepts and getting frustrated.

In any project that you have to farm out work on, expect your project to double in cost. The body work you mention will be costly if done right. You want as little filler as possible. That means a decent sheet metal tech will have many hours into the project. ( A pillar replacement if that's what it comes down to ).

I've seen estimates range anywhere from 3k to unlimited when it comes to body/paint work. If the car only needs final prep and paint, you're looking closer to the 3k mark. If there's metal work and prep, it starts getting expensive. So, the more work you do yourself, the cheaper it will be to have it sprayed.

I kinda like the idea of finding a cheap, clean 6 cly car and using the green one as a donor to convert to a 8 cly project. In the end, you may find that to be an easier, cheaper project. At any rate. You have your work cut out for you.

Good luck.

Grimm

Maybe I'm wrong, but that A pillar problem, it looks to me like there are pits in the lead solder that is used when securing the roof to the pillar. Did they sand blast the car? If that's the case there is nothing wrong with tha A pillar. All you need to do is put some body filler over the pits. It does seem as though the roof at the windshield in that same corner is rusted through though.

RGH69

Can someone recommend a good bodyshop place in Katy or west Houston that can address this or give me a second opinion?

Thanks,
Robert