67coupe

Some of the coil brackets have a spot to mount a resistor. You just put the coil positive wire in either side of the resistor then out the other side to the positive terminal on the coil. Doesn't matter where it's mounted.

You can buy a coil with an internal resistor.

Cajun66

None of the parts stores here have a coil with an internal resistor and the resistor that is listed is an inline resister (a pink wire). I don't have one and can't find anywhere in the wiring that it could possibly go. I called Mustangs Unlimited and they said their coils are for use with an external resistor also.

Soaring

That pink wire goes to your key. Maybe your tumbler in your key is worn. I don't want to use the word starter, but where you put your key in.....and start it.

horseshoeing

Go buy a MSD coil or something like that.

bob emmerich

A 66 289 shouldn't need an external resistor, it's built into the wiring harness under(behind) the dash. It's a pink soft wire that goes to your ignition switch. Now, that said, You replaced the coil,cap,plugs,wires-did you do the points and condenser? That is probably where your problem lies. Another thing to consider is the voltage regulator and maybe the timing isn't right. Was thew carb "tuned" correctly? After the car dies out, go under the hood and manually move the accelerator lever and see if fuel squirts into the carb, if not it's a fuel delivery problem.
Did you change the sending unit in the tank itself? I've seen these cause MAJOR headaches(my own car included). Now if all else fails it is more than likely an ignition problem. These are just a couple of things that cause problems off the top of my head.

Cajun66

I did not replace the points(they look almost new), but I did the condensor. I am beginning to think it may be the carb. I was checking for spark to the plugs and it tried to start. I noticed that the butterfly on the carb was completely closed. I used a screwdriver to open the butterfly and when I got it to the right position, the car started. It then died when my wife hit the accelerator (the butterfly closed completely). I was able to get it running again by manually opening the butterfly. The carb is a manufacturer rebuild that was put on about 1 1/2 years ago when I had the fuel system replaced (tank, sending unit, lines, pump, and carb), but I haven't been able to drive it much. Since then, I have had the engine rebuilt (new heads, pistons, valves). I know I am getting fuel to the carb, it seems the choke isn't working properly or is not adjusted. I am wondering if I should try to adjust it or just replace the whole carb since it has been sitting for most of 1 1/2 years.

69mach1377

There are 2 settings for the choke butterfly, assuming it is not manual choke...summer and winter. It seems like you have the summer setting still. Loosen the 3 screws that hold down the choke 'coil' housing and rotate until the butterfly opens up. Then rotate back until it just closes. Do this at the temperature you usually start it at, ie morning or afternoon. This will become your winter setting.
Repeat the process every spring/summer and fall/winter to avoid over or under choking your carb.
Hope this is the problem and not needing another carb...

Soaring

I would peronally get that **** running by pumping the accellerator over and over again to keep it running, then take that **** out on the highway and run it til it ran out of gas, then start with the tuning advice. These old engines have to be run in order to adjust them. Get her hot, run it into the ground, then adjust the timing, etc.

fireball580

have you thought about replacing the ignition module that bolts on the fender well.
i had the same problem with my 69 mach 1 it would start ok but once it got hot that was it the engine would just stop.

Soaring

Have you guys ever noticed how much better your old Mustang runs after driving it a few hundred miles in one day? Again, drive it for a long distance, then adjust the timing an all. You will be glad you did.