need experts help on oil leak
#1
need experts help on oil leak
ok so ive been having a oil leak ona brand new engine..this is hell because im young and i spend all my part time job money on this engine.....ok..so i was have a drippin leak when the car was moving and shifting gears..not wen it was standstill and een wen it was turned on..and on park..it would drip...but wen i had it on and i juss driven it ..it would drippwhere the engine and the tranny connect and also on the starter..its not the valvo covers becuase ive replaced them and put silicone on them..and its to much of a drip to be the valvo covers..its either the rear main seal or the oil pan gasket.....can anyone give me advise on how to fix this ..the REAR MAIN SEAL...i drop the tranny right.....but can someone give me step by step adivse...i need your help..lol...
#4
RE: need experts help on oil leak
no..just because i barely literally just put the engine in..well my brother did..we put regular oil jus to start the engine...thn we were gonna let it run..then drain and like the usual brekain in a new engine.. ihavent driven it at all really and its leaking...y the question..i?
#5
RE: need experts help on oil leak
lol..thats the thing also..i bought it..its a 347 stroker...and i keeep calling the guy..and clearly messed up choosing a guy..he keeps dodging me..like yea ill show upp today or tomorow..or i cant make it i have this and thta..ive fed up with him...and he wants me to ull the whole engine out again to take it to him..might as well fix the rear main seal myself right?,,,,thats why i need help doing it..lol..
#7
RE: need experts help on oil leak
I'd be all over that guy. He built you a leaking motor and needs to fix it! You start messing with it and he's off the hook.
Did you stroke a 5.0 or an early model block?
Did you stroke a 5.0 or an early model block?
#8
RE: need experts help on oil leak
its a early model block... i know..trust me i been hassling the guy left and right beleive me....... so i juss wanna get behind this and jus try to fix the rear leak..which i beleive its the rear main seal... the dipstick says its at midpoint...of oill...
#9
RE: need experts help on oil leak
The best way to determine where you are really leaking is to take it to a car wash, blast the engine compartment and undercarrige with the hot soap, then rinse. Drive about 5 or 6 miles, go home put it on stands an find exactly where the leak is. Oil pan? Piece of cake. Rear main seal not!
#10
RE: need experts help on oil leak
Replacing the Rear Main Seal
If your car had the rope type seal, replace it with the newer neoprene seal. Note that if the car had a rope type seal in it before, it will have a small pin (like a nail) sticking into the seal cavity in the main cap. It must be driven or ground out before the new seal can be installed. Seals really aren't that hard to install, especially on a 289 Mustang. Unbolt the idler arm and push steering linkage away. Remove the starter. Drain and unbolt pan and remove it. Loosen all the main cap bolts a couple of turns. Remove rear cap. The old seal will usually slide around so you can grab it and pull it out if you rotate the crank by hand in the direction you pull the seal. If it won't come, there are inexpensive tools that thread into the old seal to pull it out. BE CAREFUL NOT TO NICK THE CRANK. Install the new seal by carefully pushing it in place while rotating the crank in the same direction as the push. Lube the seal with oil and go easy as the sharp edges of the block will try to shave off pieces of the seal. Leave one end sticking out of the block 3/8" and match the one in the cap to it. Lube the lower seal and install the cap with a small bit of RTV near the rear of the parting surface of the cap. Torque all the mains and reinstall the pan. Don't use a gasket, just RTV Ultra Black, thick where the end seals went and thin on the flange. Everything must be cleaned with lacquer thinner first to get a good bond. Torque the pan tight to the block while the RTV is wet and it will never leak again.
(Writeup courtesy of MustangSteve)
If your car had the rope type seal, replace it with the newer neoprene seal. Note that if the car had a rope type seal in it before, it will have a small pin (like a nail) sticking into the seal cavity in the main cap. It must be driven or ground out before the new seal can be installed. Seals really aren't that hard to install, especially on a 289 Mustang. Unbolt the idler arm and push steering linkage away. Remove the starter. Drain and unbolt pan and remove it. Loosen all the main cap bolts a couple of turns. Remove rear cap. The old seal will usually slide around so you can grab it and pull it out if you rotate the crank by hand in the direction you pull the seal. If it won't come, there are inexpensive tools that thread into the old seal to pull it out. BE CAREFUL NOT TO NICK THE CRANK. Install the new seal by carefully pushing it in place while rotating the crank in the same direction as the push. Lube the seal with oil and go easy as the sharp edges of the block will try to shave off pieces of the seal. Leave one end sticking out of the block 3/8" and match the one in the cap to it. Lube the lower seal and install the cap with a small bit of RTV near the rear of the parting surface of the cap. Torque all the mains and reinstall the pan. Don't use a gasket, just RTV Ultra Black, thick where the end seals went and thin on the flange. Everything must be cleaned with lacquer thinner first to get a good bond. Torque the pan tight to the block while the RTV is wet and it will never leak again.
(Writeup courtesy of MustangSteve)