Classic Mustangs (Tech)Technical discussions about the Mustangs of yester-year.
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ok guys.. so i bought my distributor a very long time ago... like back in feb.. when i started this project and.. i never realized till today.. what it looked like.. and me, not knowing anything about distributors, is confused... know i know that the stock one has a center hook up the goes to the coil... which then feeds the 8 hook ups for the plugs... well here is my dist. and there is no center hook up so can you guys help me with how i hook it up. its made by procomp
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oh.. well thats cool... ok so i see on the side peice it is labled TACH and BAT so i just neet to run the ignition to the BAT side and i can run my TACH to the TACH side correct? well that makes things simple.. good thing i caught it because i was going to go but a new coil today....
ok so every thing with the dist. is cool but i have know idea what wire goes where... i have three wires coming from the fire wall here is a pic... one wire is red, the other like orange/red with a white strip, and the last one is blue.... oh and the red one has a small wire coming out of it.. i think they use to go to my coil.. well atleast two did... so which is which does any one know... oh and i have a 1969 with a 302
You're going to need to bypass the stock ignition resistor wire for this. There's a pink wire coming out of the back of the ignition switchrunningto the firewall connector that feeds one of those wires (I don't have my shop manual handy to figure out which, but you really need to buy one yourself). You need to run a 12ga wire from that terminal all the way to the BAT terminal on the distributor to feed it full source voltage instead of the factory ~6V.
Or run a relay, using the original 9v ingintion lead as the switching lead. I did this, and Im sure its easier than fiddling around under the dash.
It's also a mess, and finding the original wire under the dash isn't that hard. There's only so many wires coming out of the back of the ignition switch, and only one of them is a thick pink wire. Clip, crimp, voila. Really, it's not that difficult.
Thats a tough question about the wires. I took a look at the wiring diagram for your car and the only blue wire I seen went to the windshield wiper motor. As for a red and a red/white wire, there were a couple possibilities. There WAS a red that also went to the windshield wiper motor, so maybe that's what those two wires (the red and the blue) are for. As for the red/white, the only one I seen listed is for the oil pressure switch. Regardless, only one wire (B+) will be coming from your firewall and going to the coil. In the diagram it's listed as a red/green wire. The other wire connected to your coil(-)goes from the negative side of your coil to the distributor.Hope I didn't make matters worse trying to help. Check the FAQ's and pull the wiring diagram yourself so you can see what I'm looking at. Good luck!
Hey you learn something new everyday!
I didnt know it was that easy to hook one of those up and that they even had them for a Ford.
Parts of my mind are still stuck in the 80's thinking thats a GM thing lol.
Looking to put one on my next build now.
1966 coupe 347s S/C Paxton tko 500
I have a 69 302 coupe but I had to buy the wire harness for the dist-temp sending unit and the oil preassure unit. The longest wire (red/green)reaches to the oil sending unit and the shortest wire(red w/white stripe)reaches the water temp unit. The dsit wire is white with a red stripe. That 4th little spliced wire could be a connection to an electric choke??
That doesn't mean thatit is correct for what wires you have but it's a thought.
ok guys so i got under the dash this weekend.. there is a pink wire with a green stripe that goes from my starter to that redish looking wire in the photo...(which is actually the pink with green its just dirty) and when i turn the key over that red wire there jumps up to 12 volts... so couldnt i use that wire to feed my dist. instead of running a new one?
if it's 12V at the distri-> keep the cable (don't run a new one).
so basically on your distributor there's only 2 connections (BAT and TACH). TACH is not used when you don't have a tachometer
If the cable that you want to hook up to BAT has 12V once you turn the ignition key to (ingition pos) and no voltage when ignition is in off position, then yes by all means use that one. Do not replace the cable then (resistor wires usually end up leading 6V to distri which is no good)
302ci, Edelbrock RPM heads, xe268h, 650 speed demon, Hooker Long Tube headers and Flowmaster 40s
Quick Performance Racing 9" rear, Moser axles, 3.5:1 trac-loc from FRPP and T5 transmission.
CSRP disc brakes front and FRPP discs back. http://www.gascc.ie
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