restomod@16

traction bars are your best bet

remicks

I don't want to seem like I'm arguing, I'm looking for info. I was always told that subframe connectors joine the front frame rails and rear frame rails which stiffened the body to improve handling and prevent the unibody from torquing to prevent the wheel hop. Can you educate me on the correct way?

opie2@aol.com

If your shocks are old and worn, replace them first!!!! Traction bars won't make up for worn suspension compenents.

Oxnard Montalvo

Stiffer springs will stop the wheel hop also. They won't wrap up as easily. I was going to put both the springs and traction bars on my car to cure the hop. I got the springs from Global West and the salesman said try just the springs first. He was right. No more hop.

middiepride

its not the body torqueing, its the actual leaf springs

the torque tries to turn the differential, and its load is put through the leaf springs, turning them a bit but with obvious great force and then when the load snaps back, it breaks the tires loose, literallymaking them like skip

fast66

Whats stopping your tyres from hitting the rear guards? From your pic, and the size, they must be sticking out of the guard by about 3 inches!

Colorado_Mustang

Guard? You mean fender lip? Those tires are similar in height to what you'll find on most Mustang model years (expect the 65/66, 74-78, and 05+). The rear height is not stock on the red Mustang pictured, it definitely has had some work done to the rear suspension, which may be contributing to the wheel hop.

Traction bars would be second on my list after a good set of shocks and springs/shackles.

67mustang302

Traction bars at the least. If the springs are worn out, no amount of traction device will keep the springs from oscillating though. So it may need stiffer springs, it really depends on how much power you're putting down. Start with good shocks, then add some traction bars. If it still hops, then you'll need stiffer springs. If you go to the track regularly and REALLY want your car to hook, then get Competition Engineering's Slide-A-Link traction bars. They're exepensive, but you're not gonna get better traction than that unless you go to a 4-link

cmanf

Ill give it my best shot from my knowledge of the matter.
I researched this quite a bit before i built mine.
As the wheel tuns forward the rear end pinion angle nose rotates up.
it actually bends the leafsprings.
Then the spring resist and the spring straightens out and bounces the weight off the ground.
Thus wheel hop. More power more throttle more hop.
The TRACTION MASTER bars are the shelby type that mounts to a plate under the center of the axle beneath the leafsprings.
The other is mounted to a point further ahead on the frame. This creats a triangle effect the strongest form of bracing,
according to my know it all structural engineer brother in law. lol
As the rearend trys to bend the spring the force is now pushed to the lowest point the bar pivot.
The force cant bend the springs as much and re-directs a large amount down. So now it is pushing down and planting your wheels.

I have the Grab a track 5 leaf mid-eye springs on mine they said you dont need the traction bars with those.
Since i should be high 5 to 600 hp @ the rear wheels i put on Traction master Shelby bars also.
Should hook up all of this is theory untill I take it out on the dyno anyway.

Smarter better informed members correct me if im not on spot with this.

67mustang302

4 link FTW!!!! You simply can't beat changing the instant center for traction