67mustang! newtothis

from looking around i have noticed that a lot of you guys are very knowledgeable, and im sure you can help me. i have talked to a couple of trusted mechanics in my area and they are as confused as i am.
ok, i got a new starter motor, cables, and solonoid. wired it up as the old one (used to work untill got fried because i tried to start it when there was frost and ice on contacts and other magic that i dont know about). when i bench test the starter it spins as usual. when i install it and hook it up to the solonoid and stuff, i get nothing. not even a click from the solonoid. then i jump the solo. and nothing. go back to bench and it works just fine. batt is ready the usual 13V
i am so confused. any ideas would be awsome thanks!!!

JMD

Have you checked your battery cables? I mean like really well. Some of the Chinese crap that is sold today "looks good" but it ain't.

Don't forget to check the ground cables as well, they are just as important as the hot cables.

The real variable betweenthe bench test and the car appears to be your cables... this is where I would start.

noroof66

I would guess solenoid, but also have your battery load tested. Like JMD mentioned, if you are definately getting power, check the gound.

crey

Not even a click from the solonoid makes me think you have either a bad ground or a bad positive cable from the battery.

Sometimes a ground may appear good until you put alot of current through it. What happens when you turn the lights on?

jlg2002

With a pair of water pump pliers (channel locks) that have uninsulated handles, jump from one large solenoid post to the other. If it sparks and turns, it's a solenoid (since you said you already jumped it) If no sparking or turning, you need to look at the following in this order:
1. Negative cable is clean/tight to the engine block and battery.
2. Engine block is grounded to the frame. (Typically thru the motor mounts)
3. Positive cable to starter is in good condition and clean.
4. voltage drop across all cables is less than 1/2 volt.
5. Engine ground strap to the firewall is connected and has good connection.

Derf00

I +1 the above.

Jumping the solenoid connections and still getting the same result (no go on the starter) rules out the solenoid for now. Cables and especially ground connections. There's alsoa grounding strap from the engine to the frame of the car. Check to make sure that didn't get toasted when you fried the starter last time. It's a braided cable about 1/2" wide and around 1/8" thick with no wire cover. They are prone to wearing out and literally crumbling over time.

If you don't have that strap, after you've checked your Negative ground, add one anyway. It will help your electrical system overall.

Edit: Just on a side note, are you getting any power from the ignition switch? Like are teh dash lights turning on when you put the key to 'On' position?

67mustang! newtothis

thanks a lot, i am a little broke right now, but i looked at my grounds and they are shot, rusted to rust heaven, lol. soo i will replace those soon and get back to you. thanks again

TheRed67Dream

After you replace your ground cable, if it still doesn't work, take a look at your cables going from the battery to the solenoid to the starter like jlg2002 said (good advice right there). try bypassing the solenoid using a good set of jumper cables (instead of the trusty flathead screwdriver method) by disconnecting the battery cables and solenoid using your jumper cables as a substitute. It's redneck engineering, but it's worked for me. That will narrow down the problems to just your cables and starter solenoid.