storing car for winter
12-06-2007, 04:36 PM
#1
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Join Date: Apr 2007
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Posts: 489
storing car for winter
Started storing car for winter. I live in Pa. and we already have snow on the ground. Mkaes me said, car will never see snow. I was looking into a trickle charger to keep the battery on all winter, is there any certain one that is better then others? And is this a good idea? I have asked for a cover for christmas, and instead of putting thethe car on jack stands, i plan on just moving it once a month to prevent flat spots in tires, or is it better to have it on jack stands? This is the first winter i have had my car, so any ideas on storage would be a big help. Thanks guys.
12-06-2007, 04:51 PM
#2
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Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Arizona
Posts: 419
RE: storing car for winter
hehehe I live in AZ I have no idea what it means to store your car for the winter 
in fact thats when my car likes to be driven the most ... I would assume jack stands would be safer for the tires, but I would think that it would be a good idea to drive it around and get all the fluids flowing and heated up at least once a month. It only takes 10min tops to jack the car up and put a set of jack stands under it, why cant you just do both? But what do I know, I never have to do it
in fact thats when my car likes to be driven the most ... I would assume jack stands would be safer for the tires, but I would think that it would be a good idea to drive it around and get all the fluids flowing and heated up at least once a month. It only takes 10min tops to jack the car up and put a set of jack stands under it, why cant you just do both? But what do I know, I never have to do it
12-06-2007, 05:27 PM
#6
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Join Date: Nov 2006
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RE: storing car for winter
hmmm...well my moms '65 vert is "in storage" for about 9 months out of the year. ever since i can remember we've never really done anything special in terms of storage, we just leave it parked in the garage and disconnect the battery and add some fuel stabilizer. never had any problems with flat spots or anything like that in the past 12 years of doing this. probably not the best thing for the car but im just saying you're doing a lot more than we do so you should be fine even just moving it every once and a while, i dont really see the need for jackstands.
now watch everyone get mad at me for not storing our car properly...
now watch everyone get mad at me for not storing our car properly...
12-06-2007, 05:58 PM
#7
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Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: 1984
Posts: 1,188
RE: storing car for winter
A cute little trickle charger from sears will be fine. A drained battery will freeze, so it's a good idea to keep it charged. Stabil the gas too. I wouldn't bother with jackstands, the car's not going to be down that long, and at some point this winter the roads may be clear and dry enough to go for a spin.
If you start your car you should drive it. As said, driving will circulate all fluids and lubricate all seals.
Just idling in the driveway does nothing for it. The engine needs to burn off the byproducts of combustion to prevent the oil from turning acidic. It's gotta get really up to temp. to accomplish this. All the water has to evaporate too or the engine internals will rust.
It is important to try and prevent any sudden temperature changes from cold and dry to warm and moist. Such a change causes condensation on all metal surfaces, inside and out. Every metal part not painted or immersed in oil will rust if subjected to many rapid warm ups. (Like a cold beer in the summer, dripping condensation.) Put plastic bags on the carburetor and exhaust.
If the car is outside good luck. If the car is garaged and heated great, you're all set. If it's garaged but not heated, seal the garage air leaks as best you can and burn a few light bulbs when the temperature is rising and the air is moist or precipitation is forecast. The bulbs will provide enough heat to ward off the condensation if the garage is fairly tight.
Don't forget the mouse traps. I prefer the old fashioned neck snapping type baited with peanut butter, with those you get a body count.
If you start your car you should drive it. As said, driving will circulate all fluids and lubricate all seals.
Just idling in the driveway does nothing for it. The engine needs to burn off the byproducts of combustion to prevent the oil from turning acidic. It's gotta get really up to temp. to accomplish this. All the water has to evaporate too or the engine internals will rust.
It is important to try and prevent any sudden temperature changes from cold and dry to warm and moist. Such a change causes condensation on all metal surfaces, inside and out. Every metal part not painted or immersed in oil will rust if subjected to many rapid warm ups. (Like a cold beer in the summer, dripping condensation.) Put plastic bags on the carburetor and exhaust.
If the car is outside good luck. If the car is garaged and heated great, you're all set. If it's garaged but not heated, seal the garage air leaks as best you can and burn a few light bulbs when the temperature is rising and the air is moist or precipitation is forecast. The bulbs will provide enough heat to ward off the condensation if the garage is fairly tight.
Don't forget the mouse traps. I prefer the old fashioned neck snapping type baited with peanut butter, with those you get a body count.
12-06-2007, 06:14 PM
#8
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Join Date: Apr 2007
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Posts: 489
RE: storing car for winter
thanks for the tips. It is in a garage, not heated,but it does keep it out of the eliments. The mouse traps-GREAT IDEA!! Didn't think of that one.As far as as gas and stabil, is there a certain amount of gas that should be left in it? As it sits now there is about 1/2 tank in her.
12-06-2007, 08:13 PM
#10
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Join Date: Nov 2006
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Posts: 2,106
RE: storing car for winter
On the tires you may want to add some air. Actually a little more than normal. Mouse traps and bait blocks both in and out of the garage works good. Stabil or race fuel works great. Un hook the battery to eliminate a sorce of ignition that may cause a fire. I use "Irish Spring" soap and open the box and place in the floorboards for rodent control also. Coat all chrome and bare metal with WD 40. If you can keep the humidity levels between 40 and 60%, corrosion all but stops.The desiccant type dehumidifers works best if you have below freezing tempatures as they are not prone to freeze ups like the refrigerant type. If on concrete, lay a piece of poly down where you park the car to trap mosture. Wash and wax and let dry before she goes to sleep. Armor All or use some other type protectant for the plastic and rubber. Leave the windows cracked and cover with a breathable car cover. She will be nice and fresh in the spring.