Primer and Rust Question. PLEASE HELP!
#1
Primer and Rust Question. PLEASE HELP!
im planning on stripping the interior paint tomorrow with aircraft paint remover and primering the interior. i wanted to know what type of primer would be best? are the ones from the spray can ok? or should i use a spray gun? also how long can bare metal be exposed to the weather before rush and corrosion appear? (dont have room in the garage, so this is done outside in the backyard under one of those car canopy from kragans. the car itself is sealed from rain, im worried about the moisture from the air as well as any water that might be produced overnight due to the atmosphere) THANK YOU
#3
RE: Primer and Rust Question. PLEASE HELP!
I don't know about the ratlle can primer stuff. I always swear by a good epoxy primer, usually a two part primer you mix and spray it on though a gun. Could be a 3 part if count the reducer (thinner). That stuff dries rock hard and takes a lot to damage it or chip. Usually the rattle can stuff will scuff and chip easily if not careful. You could probably get away with using that though, if your just using it on the interior sheet metal and then redoing the interior. Depends on how involved you want to get and what kind of quality products you are willing to get. Usually, higher quality= higher expense.
#4
RE: Primer and Rust Question. PLEASE HELP!
+1 on the epoxy, if you are able to spend the money, the epoxy will do a much better job at protecting the car than either rattle can or lacquer based primer can. Lacquer based primer (standard primer) does not positively seal out moisture, while it will afford some protection for a little while, rust will develop underneath if not top coated in a timely manner.
Once you strip the paint, you will want toscuff up the bare metal (take away all of the shine) with a scotch brite pad or some sandpaper to insure a good paint (primer)bond.
Once you strip the paint, you will want toscuff up the bare metal (take away all of the shine) with a scotch brite pad or some sandpaper to insure a good paint (primer)bond.
#5
RE: Primer and Rust Question. PLEASE HELP!
I'm not sure how necessary it is to remove all the paint. The new primer and paint should stick pretty good if you scuff it with sand paper and make sure everything is good and clean. A Rustoleum primer and paint should work pretty good, but you'll go through quite a few cans. Make sure it is warm enough for everything to cure right.When I did my interior I bought a paint gun set from an automotive paint store. I went with the primer and paint combination recommended to me by the owner of the store for corrosion protection and durability, but I think I used an epoxy based primer and paint.You'll need time and good weather to getgood results. Painting has a steep learning curve.
#7
RE: Primer and Rust Question. PLEASE HELP!
Personally I would think the Rustoleum can would be OK for the interior. How much abuse can that get? It's not like rocks will be hitting it. And Rustoleum is a good brand. As far as leaving bare metal while you are working on it I am doing parts of my fenders now that require a bit of work. 3 days away from it and something is forming. I can feel it on the surface. Just a real light rust, but it is there. I just made sure I went back over the exposed areas again before I primed. It didn't take long. And actually, I used Rustoleum primer on the bumper mounts under the front of the car. About three coats and then a few coats of Satin Black Rustoleum. It's not going to be a daily driver and I did not have the space, ventilation or equipment for a spray gun with epoxy primer. Besides, I can easily get back to those parts if I need to.
#8
RE: Primer and Rust Question. PLEASE HELP!
If youre going to bare metal an epoxy would be best especially if youre going to be leaving it outside for a few days. You definitely dont want to have to redo the area, plus that epoxy has a better adhesion quality. Its designed for bare metal. Interior work you can get away with a touch-up gun.
#9
RE: Primer and Rust Question. PLEASE HELP!
Seam sealer? Was I supposed to remove all of it?
I scraped as much away as I could using a screw driver, but any stuff still stuck on tight after 40 years, I left and painted over. I just wanted to get the surface rust and pits sandblasted out before they became more rust holes. Not the most thorough job, butwho knows, maybe in a few years I'll go back and redo it right.
I scraped as much away as I could using a screw driver, but any stuff still stuck on tight after 40 years, I left and painted over. I just wanted to get the surface rust and pits sandblasted out before they became more rust holes. Not the most thorough job, butwho knows, maybe in a few years I'll go back and redo it right.
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