adr3naline

Okay, I need your help understanding the camshaft. As I read up on them a little bit, there's roller cams, hydrolic cams, mild, aggressive, etc. I've heard of buying them for added horsepower, fuel economy, and better aggresive idle sound. As I look at the numbers, there's rpm ranges, intake/exhaust lift, durations, etc. What do these mean, and what should I be looking for?

I drive a daily driver (well, not in this kind of winter). How can I learn about all the different setups, and what setup would be the best for my situation?

Starfury

Here ya go:
http://www.popularhotrodding.com/tec...ics/index.html

The short version:
You have a hydraulic lifter, flat-tappet cam in your engine, so unless you want to do a roller-cam conversion (which would stilluse hydraulic lifters), that's what you're going to be looking at.

If you tell us what kind of setup you're running (rear gears, engine upgrades, etc) and how you plan on driving the car (aggressively, mostly freeway, mostly in the city, etc), we'll recommend a couple cams for you. However, you must realize that to get the full benefit of a cam swap you'll need a decent exhaust, an intake/carb to match the cam, and a set of heads wouldn't hurt.

kaponelb

I dont mean to steal ur tread I need some help to on a cam I have a 289 with 302 heads I bought the edelbrock 7121 intake and the 1496 performer carburator I have dual exhaust with flownasters supers 40s I want something for street power just a Sunday driver with power

JMD

http://www.compcams.com/Camquest/

Check out this download!

I downloaded this and I think it would be a good tool to help in can selection!

Of course this download caused me to buy "Desktop Dyno Basic", which then caused me to want to buy a more expensive engine simulation program....

my77stang

i've been using desktop dyno 2000 for awhile now, im DLing this thing now just to check it out

Starfury

I'm going to assume you meant the 1406, which is the electric-choke 600CFM carb. Big for your engine, but with a cam and a tune kit (rods, jets, and springs) you'll probably be fine.

Unless you plan on changing heads in the near future, I'd recommend either the Edelbrock Performer Plus cam, or the Comp Cams High Energy 268H with some 1.7 rockers.The Edelbrock willidle better and be a little more tame on the street, while the268H will probably give you a little more power up top.

Right now the weak spot in your engine is your heads. I wouldn't trust the stock valvetrain to any more lift or rpmthan either of those setups will provide. I probably wouldn't trust the stock rod bolts past that point either, if you're still running on the stock bottom end.

Also consider some new gears. Switching from the factory 2.80's or 3.00's to some 3.55's will make more differencethan almost anything you can do to your engine.

Starfury

Nifty tool, although it's pretty optimistic with its torque/hp estimates.

JMD

You noticed thattoo?

After trying this out and noticing the somewhat high figures, I had to buy desktop dyno basic, and then since that seemed a little high I bought an engine simulation program that sems to be a lot more realistic!

adr3naline

Starfury.... that article is excelent! Thanks!

I'm currently running an all stock 302, no mods. I just picked up my 70 in July 2007, so after getting all the saftey items up to par, we're moving on to performance now.

I'm just in the planning stages of the whole car, including head selection, exhaust, manifolds, etc. I'm sure I'll be coming back with more questions about all these items so I can make informed decisions. Thanks for your help!

67mustang302

An OTS cam is gonna be based on what you want the engine to do, type of performance and what rpm range. That's also gonna determine heads, gears etc. Custom cams can be quite nice(but pricey) and you pick the engine parts you want for your performance, and then have a cam ground to the setup. The OTS cams tend to do pretty well, they have a lot of different cams based on a lot of engine configurations.