67mustang302

Well, it's basically a stockish 302 with intake, exhaust and a cam. Don't be shocked if you can't get it into the 13's. Again, the suspension setup will help quite a bit(and should be capable of supporting a monster engine with some good traction bars). As far as timing, check the plugs. The electrode ground strap will have an indicator of total timing. There should be a clear mark on the strap, on new clean plugs it may look like a burnt metal discoloration, or you may have dark deposits on one side and light on the other etc, but the "dividing point" or mark indicates total timing. You want it to be in the middle of the bend of the electrode. Closer to the tip means not enough total timing, closer to the threads means too much total timing. Also the top flat part of the insulator that rings the base of the electrode should have a clean reddish/brownish/greyish(the "good plug color") ring around it that's about .020" wide(in ideal circunstances). Wider means not enough timing, if it's smaller, or only goes part way around or is non existant then it may indicate too much total timing. But keep in mind that coloration on the insulator may not be there if you have a good ignition system with wide plug gap, since it'll stay hot enough to burn off any deposits, and pump fuel additives can prevent deposit build-up as well. If the ring is present on the insulator then you can use it with the marking on the ground strap as a second check, but go by the ground strap first.

moparmatt89

http://www.mustangandfords.com/techa...ock/index.html
This is the article that i read before i built the motor, the only real difference from my motor is the 9.5:1 compression as opposed to my 9.0:1 and the intake. Im really very dissapointed if im making only 300hp at the flywheel. I guess i will find out.
Matt

urban_cowboy

Whether you can make 300 is going to depend on your heads. If you can flow 280 or so you should hit 350hp easy peaking around 6500rpm. At that level with street tires, you should be low 13s or even high 12saccordingto my simulator. Your problem is the same as mine and that is how to get it tohook up.

Are you ready toturn that guy 7200cuz those times are based on a 2000 launch and 7100 shifts.

urban_cowboy

Just noticed that that cam is a hydraulic flat. If you are shooting for big numbers and high revs like I think you are, you really need to switch to a solid roller cam.

moparmatt89

Thanks for the info guys. The motor that is in the car i built when i was 15 which was three years ago and i think it was a pretty good first motor. I have a 351 cleveland in the garage that has cobrajet heads on it, and another one with 351 boss heads on it, im thinking about building a pretty mean 408 stroker. I also have a 302 block that i could do a 331 or 347 stroker. I think that will serve my power needs. What do you guys think?
Matt

dugan

no, no, no, why would you do that when you could just give them all to me!

urban_cowboy

Use the stock type heads if you are interested in making a retromod car, but they are not going to perform very well if you compare them to new aftermarket stuff. Keep in mind that when you stroke a motor, you loose topend due to increasing the piston speed. You are not going to be able to rev a 408 very high so make all the power you can in the 5000s.

67coupe

"If you are shooting for big numbers and high revs like I think you are, you really need to switch to a solid roller cam."

Flat tappet cams are best for high rpm. The roller cam profiles are to radical for high revs.

dodgestang

Just so we are all clear on what is being discussed

Hydro flat tappet - not a high rev
Hoydro roller - steeper ramp ups but still HYDRO so not really suited for high revs

SOLID flat tappett - good for high revs
SOLID Roller - good for high revs and steeper ramps

urban_cowboy

+1 Dodgestang

Comp has 351W cams for example that will due up around:

Hydraulic Flat 7000+rpm
Hydraulic Roller 7000+rpm
Solid Flat 7500+rpm
Solid Roller 8800+rpm

As you can see, Solid cams/lifters are more for high rpm stuff. I am not sure what 67coupe means, but solid roller cams can handle high revs. You just need to match the valve springs to the cam profile which you should do anyways. NASCAR has banned roller cams so they use solid flat cams/lifter, but I bet woulduse solid rollers if they could.