Se4mus1

hey everyone,
I am new at thhis so bear with me. I recently inherited a 1966 289 convertable and it was goin pretty good. However, about a month ago it stalled out with no warning, so i thaought it was the alternator. I baought a new one plus a voltage regulator and installed them. it wouldnt start on its own so i tried jumping it which didnt work either. i figured it was the starter stolenoid so i bridged the two ends to gether with a wrench and it fired up. After this I purchased a new one and installed it, thinking it was the starter. I tried starting it again but there is no power going through it at all, not even the auxilary, nothing. The only time i can get power running through it is if there is an outsource of power, such as a battery charger or boost cables. Even when its hooked up however, when you turn rhe key and try to start it i get this weird buzzing sound like a teansformer blowing or something. Im new at this whole car thing so i dont know much, i figured the best way to learn is trial and error, but i hear how deliquite these cars are so i dont want to skrew it up. any help is much appericiated. Thanks.

jlg2002

If it clicks/buzzes when starting its because of low voltage. With this said, the following is what you should look at:
1. Are the cables clean and tight at both ends, fix this first if not.
2. Take the battery to a shop and get it tested/charged. If this all fails, change the pos cable first then the neg cable then the starter to relay cable.
3. Check that the engine/starter is grounded good to the body/frame. Is the ground strap clean and attached at the firewall. The starter relay (early Ford's have relays not solenoids -BTW) is installed tightly and to a clean hole.
One of thesesteps should get you cranking.
4. (Maybe 1st ) Double check that your wiring is properly installed on the starter relay. single big cable on the starter side and bat cable and small wires on the battery side.

Se4mus1

thanks! i t haught it ccould be the wiring, but i wanted to make sure. also, somewere along the line it was upgraded to an electronic ignition, the red wire coming out of the box is cut, could this posibly have anything to do with it. There is also a cut wire underneath the dash near the fuse box that is cut, but i dont know what any of these wires mean so im not sure if it has anything to do with the problem.

BULLITT GT 390

it may be the solenoid or a bad ground.... did you try to hot wire it? I would try that first! and see if it starts....

Se4mus1

I replased the starter relay or solenoid and hotwired the old solenoid but it wont start on its own, im gonna check the wires today, but i have school so im limite on time, thanks

kalli

you said when you bridge the left side of selonoid (battery side, thick cable) with the right one (starter side, thick cable), then it fires up? and you got a new selonoid?
if so, then try the next time: disconnect the small cable going to the inner left connector on selonoid. should be marked with an 'S' for start (the small one). then try bridging the left connector of selonoid (the battery side) with this 'S' connector while having the key in ignition position so your idiot lights come on (not start)

if that fires up your engine, then the problem is that the selonoid is not getting 12V on the small connector when you turn the key in start position. if that's the problem it should be an easy fix.
first thing is to check fuses and then the connectors in firewall (pull them and clean both sides). put the small cable back and see if you can start normal then.

let us know the result ....

Edit:
I just checked the wiring diagram and forgot to mention the most obvious. if you have an automatic, check on the neutral saftey switch. It's a swuitch in the transmision to make sure you are in PARK to be able to start the car. if that's fried it will lead to the same problem (no power on 'S' connector). try unplugging this connector and bridging the cable at connector.
or you can run a cable from the "A" connector of alternator regulator to the "s" port of the selonoid to bypass this switch. (do this only for a temporary test, not a constant fix)



Kalli

Se4mus1

i suspected the fuses and unbolted the fuse bow under the dash but i cant tell if there busted or not, and i cant figure out how to take them out, there a bit rusty, do they just pop out. and as for the firewall, where is that located? ill probobly end up doing everything this weekend because i just got slamed today with a yard problem, my 24 foot plam tree got knocked down, so i kinda have to take care of that, but ill prob let everyone kno on monday what happens, if not sooner

Se4mus1

And also, i have never heard of that safety switch, this could be the problem because i have some transmition problems, and my cruse-o-matic shifter is loose and sometimes doesnt lock into park, and yes it is an automatic.

kalli

i have 5 dollars at the bookmaker that the problem is your neutral safety.
so either the shifter doesn't go in position so that the switch closes or the switch itself is fried.

a) try starting the car while fiddeling with your shifter. see if you can get contact so that the engine starts over
try fixing the loose shifter. if that works that is your problem
b) try run a temporary cable from the "A" connector of alternator regulator to the "s" port of the selonoid. (do this only for a temporary test, not a constant fix). According to the wiring diagram this is the easiest way to bypass the neutral safety switch.
you will need to leave the original cable on the "A" port. don't pull that one off.

kalli

mySAVIOReigns

I agree with kalli,

Try just putting it in neutral, instead of park, and starting it.