Jay (imoRFT)

just decided to start working on the Mustang that my late step dad left for me when he passed. and i know my way around a chevy, but when it comes to Ford's or something as "sacred" as a 64 1/2, i am a little in the dark. so let's start here.........</P>
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<LI>VIN 5F07F166192</LI>
<LI>Body 65a</LI>
<LI>trim p6</LI>
<LI>date f.... i beleive this translates to June of 64</LI>
<LI>DSO 22</LI>
<LI>Axle 1</LI>
<LI>trans 6</LI>[/list]

there's what i got off the tag on the door, there is also a "289" cast into the intake just in front of the carb, i am sure it is a generator system not alternator, and says "GEN" on the idiot light in the cluster. it also has buckets with auto tranny and no console, there are no pony logos on the seats. and the coil is mounted on the intake next just to the left of the carb, not in front. </P>


the air cleaner is painted blue, which i heard is associated with the 260 v8, but the valve covers are gold, same color as the body, which i heard is associated with 289 v8........... how do i know???? where do i look for numbers on the block or does the 289 found on the intake suffice???? better yet, how do i know if the motor is original and matching to the rest fo the car???? </P>


any help is appreciated!!!! </P>


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Utah 66

</P>


according to the VIN: made in Dearborn, Mi. Hardtop. 64 1/2 V8 260 CID 2Bbl, C4 auto, with 3.00 gears in the rear.</P>


sounds like they swapped intake or the whole engine.</P>


Good Luck</P>
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Jay (imoRFT)

any idea of where to look on the block for the numbers???? so i know if i am workin with a matching or unmatched car and motor..........

Jay (imoRFT)

well, the motor will run and at least sounds intact........ dumped a little gas in the carb and it fired today..... of course that was after i cleaned the points, changed the oil and tied up some other loose ends..... tommorrow, we'll see if the fuel pump actually pumps and find out how bad the brakes, etc really are. might even be able to pull it out of the garage under its own power. maybe i'll give it a bath, dirty as hell after 18 years in the dark with no food or water..... hehe.... </P>


anyone know where to look for the numbers on the block??? </P>


how about changing from generator and points set up to hei and alternator??? complicated and/or expensive??? pro's/con's????</P>


as always any help is greatly appreciated.......... anyone know how to shrink files using XP???? pics are limited to 500kb on here and all the pics i took today are 600 and over......</P>


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Utah 66

Before 1968, all engines used in the cars bore the serial number on the top surface of the engine block, near the crankcase breather pipe, at the front left side of the engine. </P>


As for decoding the sreial num I am not sure.</P>


Hope this helps</P>

quig

You will find fords easier to work on than the others, especially in the ign dept. As for electronic ign goes I would get a Pertronix or crane unit that fits under the dist cap so it still appears stock. I am considering that myself but have had no problems with the points. Is your generator still good? because if it is you should keep it these cars are classics and should remain as original as practical. Also 289s and 260s look the same so it isnt as big a deal as if it were a 351 or other V8. I replied in another post I have owned my 67 for a long time now and wish I didnt do some of the things I did because it took a lot of work to undo them. Though I am considering putting in a 390 but at least they were available in 67 so its not too out of line. Quig

Jay (imoRFT)

thanks utah. i'll check for that next time i make it tomy garage.... i hate not having it here so i can check little stuff like this quickly, but **** happens i guess......</P>


thanks for the directionquig, not sure if the gen is good yet or not, i have yet to have it running for more than 3 or 4 seconds so i'm not sure. what kind of load can these generators handle???? i would like to go to an electric fan set up but i am unsure because of not working with this kind of electrical system before.....</P>


i fiddled with it a bit today and found that the radiator is shot, like as if someone blasted it with a shotgun, lol...... starter solenoid is also shot and the carb is fubared to the point where, as soon as the fuel pump gets gas to it, the gas shoots out of the bowl overflows, straight into the air, kinda like old faithful...... </P>


this carb worth rebuilding or do i just pick another one up???...... i have build up ideas in mind for down the road which include cam, intake, and 4 barrel but right now that kind of motor work is just not practical..........</P>


anyone know where to pick one of these 2 barrel carbs up?.... vs the cost of a rebuild, of course........</P>


thanks again for the insight.......</P>


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Jay (imoRFT)

figured i'd post an update for you guys, especially the ones who have helped me so far so here goes.....</P>


NEW:</P>


radiator, hoses, heater hoses, carb, coil, fan belt, gas tank, fuel line, shocks all around, 2.5 inch flowies out before the rear tires, gauges from autometer, plugs, wires, points, condenser, cap, rotor, starter solenoid.......</P>


motor runs, no smoke on start up orafter its hot either, seems strong, all gauges and idiot lights work except for the ones i replaced with gauges, (oil pressure and water temp), drove it for the first time today and the tranny seems fine, it shifts well and doesn't slip, brakes are gonna need some attention in spring....... </P>


there are some electrical questions i have for you guys...... </P>


1) i have no brake lights..... i realize this is probably just the switch on the master cylinder.... </P>


2) i have courtesy lights that work under the dash along with the light in the glove box that works fine, BUT&gt;&gt;&gt;&gt; i cannot seem to get the turn signals, or any dash lights to work..... all the lights work on the exterior of the car with the only hang up being the dimmer switch which i have here but i have not installed yet...... i know all the fuses are good, and the fuel gauge works, but could this problem with the dash lights and turn signal be the constant voltage regulator or something else???? </P>


thanks for the help in advance, you guys have been very helpful so far......</P>


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bob emmerich

I would have to say the CVR(constant voltage regulator)is the culprit. Brake lights are probably what you guessed-the switch(possibly the signal prob, too). I also wouldn't rule out the possibility that the light switch itself isshot, after all it is 40yrs old.</P>


As for the turn signals not working,put one of the signals on and go outside and see if the bulb on that sidelights but doesn't blink, ifit does go on, but doesn't blink, one of the bulbs on that side is no good. If nothing happens at all, I would suspect the flasher switch(easy and cheap to fix)under the dash is either not connected or bad. It's located up under the dash by the back of the fresh air inlet(round tube sticking down)near the firewall. If it is working you should hear the Click,Click,Click of it.</P>