MonsterBilly

So messed around with the thing today to see if i could beat you suckers to the solution. No Dice!

My t5 is 1/4" from the top of the tunnel

my engine and trans sit at 3* down in the rear
my drive shaft slopes down 1.5*
my rear end points up 1.5*

So to me the drive shaft is in line with the rear end. If this is so then i have a 1.5* difference. this however is less than the 3* overall standard which i read about in the beginning.
Now i am going to follow Scott's recommendation. Once i have the DS balanced and shortened 1/2". I will shim therear end up to achieve the 3*. this will give me an overall angle of 0* if i am understanding correctly.

I also think there may be some play in the rear output shaft of the t5

MonsterBilly

my yolk is out of my 66 3spd. it is currently in in the t5. it was longer than the t5 yolk dut still fit. now i have 1/4" play in the yolk but if i keep pushing the yolk in it will colapse the rear seal and go in further.
Should it have about 3/4" play total or 3/4" until it hits the seal?

Gun Jam

How thick is the seal some of them have a large dust cover others dont. If yours has the dust cover I would shoot so there is maybe 1/8" gap between the end of the yoke and the dust cover.

-Gun

Gun Jam

I was fixing to get the lower motor mounts but they want way too much for them.

I still think I can solve the problem by raising the trans. Right now I have about 1/8" between the tunnel and the trans. by raising the trans until it hit the tunnel I was able to reduce angle by about 1/4 degree maybe a bit more.

So if I could get a 1/2" more I think I would be in good shape.

The trans is not hitting the tunnel I think its hitting the brace that is inside the tunnel. If I could remove about a 1.5" strip from that brace I could probably move the trans up at least 1" But This brace is part of the cross member..Cutting it would probably be the dumbest thing ever...its there for a reason and its not easy to get to.

Maybe I can find one of those motor mounts on ebay.

What can I do to score some room to move that trans up??

-Gun

Scott H.

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Gun Jam

I found out these ron morris mounts also give 3" of forward and back adjustment. So i could move the engine back 1/2" and drop it 1/2" at the same time. By doing this I can eliminate the possibility of having too much yoke sticking out of the tail shaft and reduce operarating angle...

I have 66 engine mounts.

-Gun

Scott H.

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Gun Jam

Im thinking real hard about em :P

-Gun

kalli

hehheeee :-)
that's some very odd way to help the driveshaft length. but if it's all coming back by half inch you might have an even better placement for the shifter. really think it's a good. idea. If you lower by half inch in the front and the only pivot point is the crossmember under the gearbox that should give you some good degrees I'd believe without having the problem not being able to lift the tail (because of that stiffening channel in the tunnel)

put it that way. there's 3 of us with the same problem. we're all 64-66 ...
I'm just installing a new engine. leaving the old mounts (as they still looked good). I'll then re-measure quickly to see if anything changed. you kept your old driveshaft and cut it. I used one from a 66auto and the third one? don't think we all have the same problem being driveshaft. it has to be geometry

On that note is there anyone with 64-66 mustang and T5 that does not have this problem (without lifting transmission or lowering engine) ?

Kalli

Gun Jam

yeah really has anyone ever done a t5 swap and not had to adjust pinion angle?

-Gun