Classic Mustangs (Tech) Technical discussions about the Mustangs of yester-year.

What the heck? Removing UCA & LCA

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 01-28-2009, 09:10 PM
  #1  
sschanz
2nd Gear Member
Thread Starter
 
sschanz's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location:
Posts: 235
Default What the heck? Removing UCA & LCA

Ok - I am trying to remove the UCA and LCA off the spindle.

I have the whole suspension off the car in one piece (UCA, LCA, Strut Rod, Spindle and Drum) per side.

I removed the cotter pin and removed the nut on both the UCA and the LCA.

Now, I thought....with the nut removed I just simply pull off the UCA and LCA. HA!

How the heck to you do that? It won't budge. Am I missing something? I tried to pound on the bolt from the UCA and nothing.

I then thought I would remove the drum from the spindle. So I removed the four nuts holding the spindle to the drum. Nope! I can't get the spindle off the drum.

Am I losing my mind this evening or is there a trick to do this? I can't remove nothing...the LCA, UCA or Spindle!
sschanz is offline  
Old 01-28-2009, 09:21 PM
  #2  
vescotech
1st Gear Member
 
vescotech's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: nc
Posts: 116
Default

the ball joint from the control arm is tapered as is the spindle. Try hitting the spindle on the side of where the ball joint passes thru it with a 3pound hammer. that will usually jar it loose.
vescotech is offline  
Old 01-28-2009, 09:29 PM
  #3  
1slow67
ROTM Moderator
 
1slow67's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Huntsville, AL
Posts: 8,146
Default

Hammer or pickle fork.
1slow67 is offline  
Old 01-28-2009, 09:45 PM
  #4  
zmetalmilitia
4th Gear Member
 
zmetalmilitia's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Colorado
Posts: 1,458
Default

That is one of those fits that requires a bit of brute force to get loose.
zmetalmilitia is offline  
Old 01-28-2009, 09:51 PM
  #5  
fakesnakes
4th Gear Member
 
fakesnakes's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Connecticut
Posts: 1,839
Default

A pickle fork will remove it, but destroy your ball joint cover (maybe not an issue if you are replacing it). Thread the nut back on several threads and smack the side of the spindle where the ball joint stud enters it with a hammer a couple of times and it will drop onto the nut. Congratulations! You removed the four bolts that hold the backing plate onto the spindle. You need to remove the drum (it should pull right off or you can release it by backing off the brake adjuster). Once the drum is off remove the bearing retainer nut and you can pull the whole brake assembly off once the flex hose is removed.

You are in desparate need of a shop manual or restoration guide. All of this is covered in detail and you do not want to screw these things up!
fakesnakes is offline  
Old 01-28-2009, 10:00 PM
  #6  
sschanz
2nd Gear Member
Thread Starter
 
sschanz's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location:
Posts: 235
Default

Originally Posted by fakesnakes

You are in desparate need of a shop manual or restoration guide. All of this is covered in detail and you do not want to screw these things up!

I think you are right! LOL.

Thanks all. I will just continue to pound the hell out if with a hammer. I was just concerned that it might hurt the spindle. And in regards to taking the spindle off, I'll do as stated and work on removing the drum first.

I'll tell you, looking at it all it just seemed like a simple (do during a commerical) sort of thing.
sschanz is offline  
Old 01-28-2009, 10:05 PM
  #7  
dodgestang
5th Gear Member
 
dodgestang's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Insanity
Posts: 2,176
Default

For future reference, you take the spindle off BEFORE you remove the upper arm from the car. It is much easier that way. Pickle fork in air hammer the lower ball joint and the the upper ball joint.
dodgestang is offline  
Old 01-29-2009, 04:31 AM
  #8  
.boB
3rd Gear Member
 
.boB's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location:
Posts: 939
Default

Remove the ball joint nuts.

Spray some penetrating oil in each hole. Hint- WD-40 is not a penetrating oil.

Put the nuts back on, but only spin them down part way. Leave about 1/2-1" space between the nut and the spindle.

Place a bottle jack between the upper and lower arms. Jack it up so there's some tension, but not so much that it bends the arm.

Now whack the spindle where the stud is with a hammer. They should pop right out. You don't need a huge hammer, and you don't need to whack it very hard.
.boB is offline  
Old 01-29-2009, 05:52 AM
  #9  
kalli
6th Gear Member
 
kalli's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Cork, Ireland
Posts: 6,417
Default

yah. definetly take the spindle of as first. This way it's much easier. you can use a big crowbar to push the lower arm down while you smack the crap out of it with the hammer.

be careful of the threads though. I've seen people ruining them with a hammerblow before.

I'd say you'll have a very hard time to get it apart when the whole lot is off the car.
kalli is offline  
Old 01-29-2009, 09:52 AM
  #10  
baddog671
6th Gear Member
 
baddog671's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2005
Location: MD/WV
Posts: 5,736
Default

The "shocking" method works great. Hit it on the side of the spindle where it connects to the control arms..
baddog671 is offline  


Quick Reply: What the heck? Removing UCA & LCA



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 05:08 AM.