289 engine help
#1
289 engine help
Alright engine experts, I need some help. Being new to the engine rebuild process I am looking to lean on some wisdom and insight that I have found here before.
I have a 289 4v out of a 64.5. it mounts to a toploader 4 speed, and it has seen it's better days. I am looking to rebuild it, and it doesn't have to be a horsepower demon.
Here is what I do know;
car sat in a barn for 13 years.. exterior of the engine is rusty.
replacing water pump, distributor, generator/altenator, intake manifold, valve covers, carb and other various little things that just too easy to replace than repair.
took plugs out and turned the engine and she turns with ease
Distributor turns with crank
All valves move when engine turned.
I am not against changing out the whole intakes as I have read on the old 289s that they robbed them of air.
My question is this, What steps should I take to ensure it is solid on the inside? I want it to be an engine that is strong and reliable and I don't want to cut corners if it will cost me in the long run. That being said, if I don't have to tear the engine all the way down and take it into a engine cleaning shop, I would be a lot happier. Unless that is the way I should go.
Thanks in advance for any and all advice. I know I have probably left out some valuable info so hit me up with questions and I will answer them to the best of my knowledge.
I have a 289 4v out of a 64.5. it mounts to a toploader 4 speed, and it has seen it's better days. I am looking to rebuild it, and it doesn't have to be a horsepower demon.
Here is what I do know;
car sat in a barn for 13 years.. exterior of the engine is rusty.
replacing water pump, distributor, generator/altenator, intake manifold, valve covers, carb and other various little things that just too easy to replace than repair.
took plugs out and turned the engine and she turns with ease
Distributor turns with crank
All valves move when engine turned.
I am not against changing out the whole intakes as I have read on the old 289s that they robbed them of air.
My question is this, What steps should I take to ensure it is solid on the inside? I want it to be an engine that is strong and reliable and I don't want to cut corners if it will cost me in the long run. That being said, if I don't have to tear the engine all the way down and take it into a engine cleaning shop, I would be a lot happier. Unless that is the way I should go.
Thanks in advance for any and all advice. I know I have probably left out some valuable info so hit me up with questions and I will answer them to the best of my knowledge.
#2
If it was me, I'd change the oil, coolant, and gas, and squirt some Marvel Mystery Oil down the cylinders to lube them up, then cross your fingers and fire it up.
You're right, btw, a new intake wouldn't hurt (weight savings are a big plus here), but not a requirement.
You're right, btw, a new intake wouldn't hurt (weight savings are a big plus here), but not a requirement.
#3
Thanks for the heads up star fury...
All the fuel lines are out of the car... there was no gas in it when i got it, and the fuel tank was toast with a horrible Epoxy patch... just going to get a new one and new lines with proper sending unit and filter.
Again the engine is OUT of the car.. on an engine stand with the tranny off of it... No way to start it, and I didn't want to when it was in the car b/c of the fuel issue.. didn't want to do more harm than good.
I am doing a full restoration of this vehicle so I don't mind spending the cash if I have to, I just don't want to get in deeper than I have to on the engine. I know just enough to be really dangerous.
All the fuel lines are out of the car... there was no gas in it when i got it, and the fuel tank was toast with a horrible Epoxy patch... just going to get a new one and new lines with proper sending unit and filter.
Again the engine is OUT of the car.. on an engine stand with the tranny off of it... No way to start it, and I didn't want to when it was in the car b/c of the fuel issue.. didn't want to do more harm than good.
I am doing a full restoration of this vehicle so I don't mind spending the cash if I have to, I just don't want to get in deeper than I have to on the engine. I know just enough to be really dangerous.
#4
Oh, hrm. Well, you could bolt up the bellhousing and starter and run a compression check. Not sure how well that's going to come out before it's actually fired up, but if it reads really low, you might consider tearing the bottom end apart for a full rebuild.
#5
becouse the engine is already out ,drop the pan ,remove vale covers and take a look you can always oil the rods and mains and than rotait , check every thing ,you can remove main caps, rod caps, checking bearings ,Go from there
#7
So I can take off the intakes and not have to worry about the Pistons and cam? just inspect?
Will it really mess up the intakes if I take them off?
What should I be looking for inside the engine when everything is removed?
What would be the best stuff to clean it once stuff is out of the way?
Will it really mess up the intakes if I take them off?
What should I be looking for inside the engine when everything is removed?
What would be the best stuff to clean it once stuff is out of the way?
#9
Thanks for all the quick replies and insight. This is one reason I love this forum.
I am going to attempt to pull off the valves and manifold and take a deeper look at it tonight. I will post pictures on my signature page. Can't put them in this thread yet as I don't have 50 posts just yet.
Any other input is GREATLY appreciated, thanks again
I am going to attempt to pull off the valves and manifold and take a deeper look at it tonight. I will post pictures on my signature page. Can't put them in this thread yet as I don't have 50 posts just yet.
Any other input is GREATLY appreciated, thanks again