_Remi

What is wrong with your 289? You can probably upgrade it for cheaper (Edelbrock Performance RPM package for example).

racin66coupe

289>302

htwheelz67

I can guarantee you the rwhp power he claims is not true, a stock 302 with 9.1 compression with a performer int/cam/carb makes about 225 fwhp, now add ported heads, maybe another 25hp, now subtract about 50-75hp for the c-4 I would put it at 200-225 rwhp at best. A 5.0 efi must gt can do that stock. Add a 150 shot and that will put rwhp at about 300-325hp at best, usually unless a real efficient combo the n20 shot adds about 25-40 hp less than advertised. Unless you are going to crack 400-500 hp with boost or n20 and race it and or turn 7000 rpm there is no need for a forged rot assy, you still have a 2 bolt block, if your 289 is still good just do a cam swap and get some good heads/int/carb an you will be way ahead of the game.

If you really want that engine, low ball it as not many people are spending dough and it wont go fast at that price. You would be much better off power wise to find a 351w and drop it in, throw in a cam about 212-220 @0.50 even with stock heads would give way more bang for the buck. Or just buy a 125 n20 powershot and carb/int headers on your 289........On my 67, back in the 80's I installed a performer cam, intake an 600 holley and try y-s on my 289. I was not impressed at all, I even had the heads mildly ported. Then I installed a 351w with ported heads and a mild comp 268h cam, HUGE power incease, then I installed a hyd roller and TW heads even better. Now I have a 500hp 408 and I'm looking for more..........get it? even in stock form the 351w will give you more than a 302 with a performer cam. If you want more power for cheaper just increase displacement or get a blower for the price of that eng you can find a used paxton blower and make the same n20 hp.

my 67 http://htwheelz.smugmug.com

ninteen66mustang

My 289 runs like crap. It would need a rebuild. I researched this a while ago and a proper rebuild with all the parts I would need to make the power I want (at least 350 at the crank) would cost more than getting an engine making that power already.

I don't want a 351 (I believe engine bay mods are necessary for this). I want to stick with a 302 block, and possibly stroke it to 331/347. I don't have the time or expertise to build an engine on my own. Even if I did, I wouldn't trust myself not to make costly mistakes. Therefore, I want to buy an engine that is complete. I would like to get a crate engine, but most of the ones I have found are too expensive.

What about think this engine:

http://www.tandlengines.com/ford_sb_347_A_2.html

Starfury

I've heard several good things about T&L. I think one of the guys here actually works for them. Kinda wish I had gone that route when I did my build.

JERM_1967stang

if the engine is what he says it is. grab it for probably 2600.00 wave 2600.00 in 10's and 20's in his face and he'll meet ya somewhere. those cams imo are pretty good for the specs. i dont remember reading but what ratio rockers? that cam has a great duration for the street he might have larger ratio rockers to add a little lift to the valves. if it is that bs 1.5 ratio dont beleive a word out the guys mouth cause he is full of it. and ask him for receipt and if you can find the shop he got it built at. depending on the shop they should hold records for it. you cant get them but he sure can.

JERM_1967stang

and that last engine link you posted looks nice but its 4G with no trans. and its .556 lift with 1.6 rockers. that wont be very reliable on a street driven car. that lift will beat the hell out of your valvetrain. that could also be the reason the guy went with the cam he did. he spent all that money and wanted it to last. i mean if he really did spend what he said on it all then he didnt just poop out the 4K.

ninteen66mustang

He said the hp/tq figures were made on a dynojet at a Wyotech in Sacramento. The engine has never had nitrous. Here is the breakdown of parts that totals over $4000. Sounds pretty legit to me.

rotating assembly $1800
lifters $160
pushrods $30
cam $232
bearings $65
intake $150
carb $450
ignition wires $100
distributor $269
mallory power cell $30
bronze distributor gear $50
headers $290
starter $140
alternator $120
water pump $60
oil pump/ pickup $55
engine gasket kit $50

If I remember right, someone on the forum had a computer program where you could enter the data of an engine and it would spit out hp figures, is that correct?

JERM_1967stang

sounds ligit on paper but you need to see for yourself if your going to drop that much money. for all you know it could have a mild rebuild and those are the things he wanted to do. you just need to see for yourself and get papers

htwheelz67

a 351 will drop in with no mods, same motor mounts, flexplate, trans (unless 5 bolt) accesoies, pulleys etc....headers no problem. No engine bay mods needed. I don t want to knock that engine But unless its raced, n20'd , blown or extreme rpms the forged crank an rods will be no more reliable than a stock 5.0. take an early 302, stock heads and performer cam, take an 87 up stock roller 5.0, the 5.0 will make about 15 more hp, way more low end, better economy and will have forged pistons, better heads etc.....

A buddy and I pulled a 91 5.0 and aod out of a wrecked gt a few years back from pick a part, it was under 300 bucks, he put on an int/carb/headers and steel dist gear, way way faste then the 289 in his 65 ranchero and still running great an pulls 15 mpg city and 27 hwy. Take a freshened 5.0 roller, bolt on afr 165's or TW heads, int/carb/headers and some 1.7 rockers you can have 350 hp no problem with the stock roller cam........Cubes like a 347 o 351w will get you there even easier but a 5.0 can do it too for cheap. You are best to start with a roller vs flat tappet especially now with the crappy oil.